All, so early Chevy chassis which has ball bearings on my front hubs, not more modern roller bearings. The Reprint I have of the Chevy maintenance manual from the period suggests snugging up the crown nut on the front spindle until all play is gone and then backing off to the first cotter key slot. I had originally set with a little bit of tension as you would with a roller bearing but after reviewing the manual backed the castle nut off as the manual advised. I end up with about 1/8 play at the top of the 18” tire when set per the manual. I’d prefer just a light bit of tension and no play, however the ball bearings have so little surface area carrying the load as compared to a roller that I’m concerned they will fail eventually. Do you have ball bearing hubs and how do you set the preload? Thanks all!
62 years ago as a sophomore in first year high school auto mechanics the instructor taught us neither tight nor loose. I've packed up in the thousands of wheel bearings and adjusted the bearings that way. Tighten the nut so that you have all the slack and just a bit of preload on the bearings, back the nut off and then run the nut up just snug but no preload and put the cotter key in. I've never had a problem with mine that I packed that way and have never had a comeback from a bearing that I packed that went bad because of something I did.
I do it as your manual states. If it’s too much play, dirt try swapping castle nuts, if no love, use a shim to take of some space. I’ve never run them snugged up.
Almost all tapered wheel bearings are supposed to have endplay as well, set them like the manual says and don’t worry about it, almost like they knew what they were talking about.
I have filed the back of the nut to get the spindle nuts to align with the keyway....but you have to sneak up on it.... Also I snug the nut quite tight initially and then back it off, turning the tire/wheel...you can feel the instance when the compression tension is gone...this will give you kind of a guide for where the nut is clocked in relation to the keyway .....play your wrench back and forth to get the 'mechanics feel' for the place between "too tight and too loose".....you can feel the tension release and then kind of re-established for zero preload To gain confidence in your setting (you have experienced too loose) feel the hubs as you put some miles on, to make sure they aren't getting too hot.... Your Poncho is dope by the way Hope this makes sense....good luck
I like to use these as you're not limited to lining up the holes. The inner nut can be at almost any location yet the outer lock will still line up with the hole. Not a big deal, but I like 'em.
I follow the instructions that Johnny posted, which is to tighten the nut to 33 ft lbs (that's pretty tight!) and back off 1/8 turn. Ball bearings want to be tighter than roller bearings.
Gents, appreciate all of your responses. It occurs to me that mayb I was worrying to much about the preload on the ball bearings. After considering all the above responses, I reflected on the fact that the non - serviceable hubs on most all modern autos use a substantially preloaded set of ball bearings. I’m gonna snug mine up again as several of you have suggested and find something else to worry about! I gotta tell yah all what a great group this is, the breadth of knowledge, technical expertise and depth of experience is amazing. I spend a lot of time lurking here without commenting, the fabrication skills and historical knowledge within this group is really something to behold! Thanks all for sharing. Al
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