Searched older threads and could not find the answer. I am running an HEI distributor. My question is what's the specific voltage requirements for ballast resistor size. I saw a thing about pertronix units but nothing on HEI's. Whoever is running a ballast resistor please let me know what size you're running. Or- how can I eliminate this thing? By using an internally resisted coil? Thanks! Scott
Whats the application? Generally speaking (and every one i have ever delt with), an HEI does not need a ballast, they use 12 volt switched ign for power. So, the easy way to bypass the ballast system would be to run another wire from the ignition switch that powers when you turn the key on to your HEI unit. I type slow, jamesgr81 beat me to it, and simpler. haha Tony
10 gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse to feed the HEI. They take lots more juice to run than a coil, and you'll starve them if you run a smaller wire. Not to mention you'll overheat the wire with possible flaming consequences. Ballast resistor is used for breaker point style ignition only (AFAIK), and is there to give the coil longer life through the use of less voltage. The 12 volts at startup is resisted down to about 6 volts for running. Cosmo
Don't know where you are getting this info hoop,but it explains it perfectly so even I can understand it!!!Thanks!!
Hmmm, initially a mechanic friend of mine remedied a situation on the car, in which the car would not shut off when the key was turned off, by installing a small light bulb in the alternator circuit. Now that same situation has started again, along with an intermittent flashing of my headlights, almost in synch with what a flasher unit would do. I am in the midst of changing the wiring harness, all new everything- alternator, starter etc. The headlights were working fine, but the tail lights, dash lights, turn signals etc were not hooked up to that point. I added much more load to the system, I figured the light bulb was not enough resistance. Hence the use of a ballast came to mind. Maybe something else isn't hooked up correctly. The flashing occurs after being 'on' for a few minutes, I removed by flashers and the tail light fuse but the headlight continued to flash. When I revved the motor up- the flashing stops for a few seconds but then continues. It does not follow a consistent rhythm. When I let the engine idle after being revved up- the lights remain constant but then start flashing. I figured it had to be a ground issue or a resistance issue due to the fact that the engine ran for about 15 seconds after the key was turned to 'off'. Gremlins!
10 gauge?? wow. I bought this new harness from EZ Wiring, I'll have to check the gauge tomorrow. Thanks!
Hey I went to HEI school 40 years ago lol! I you look at the Amp curve for the ballast resistor you will notice it is round instead of straight, that's because the more current flows thru it the higher the resistance. The straight line is the inductance of the coil opposing the change in current. Anytime you see that curve in coil current you know you have resistance
Sounds like the headlamp circuit breaker cycling. Something shorted in the headlamp circuit. Be sure the Ignition run is on a separate circuit from the alternator. I'd have to see a circuit to give u a better guess. Hoop
You do have a circuit breaker in the head light circuit? The concept that Hoop98 suggested is one that could be possible but as the cycling of the headlights is very distinct and the same it may be that it's due to an alternator malfunction where You are getting a current pulse from it because it isn't converting the alternating current to direct current correctly. As far as the light bulb being used in the exciter wire on the alternator to prevent feedback to the ignition, that is the normal idiot light in a later model car thing. It then serves two purposes. A diode or resistor can also be used in the line but I've always used diodes. If you have never had an alternator feed back to the ignition circuit and keep the engine running after you turn the key off you haven't done much wiring as it has happened to all of us. I agree with Hoop98 in that the alternator should feed the battery and the battery should feed the rest of the car. Most wiring systems are set up so that the Batt wire from the alternator goes directly to the battery or to a terminal block close to the battery with a shorter wire feeding the battery from that and a wire running from there to the fuse block.
The ballast resistor carriers to much currant install a bigger bulb. If it still runs on go to Radio Shack and buy tiny resistor and mount it in paral6 The ballast resistor carries to much currant install a bigger bulb if it still runs on go to Radio Shack and buy a tiny resistor and mount it in parallel with the bulb. The light circuit only needs carry enough currant excite the rotor but not enough to run the ignition . The lights blinking may be the voltage regulator turning off and on.
There is a relay in the headlight circuit, but I checked it and didn't hear any appreciable clicking - engaging and disconnecting of the pickups.
Yes,10 gauge is recommended..HEI can draw a surprising amount of current in some situations. But...many use smaller wire with no problems...including me .
HEI is a term for GMs electronic ignition. Lately it has taken on a generic meaning for electronic ignition. Make sure you are talking about the same thing and not just slang for electronic ign.. I could be wrong but I don't believe that the GM HEI (High Energy Ignition) uses a ballast resistor but I know that the Chrysler electronic ignition does. I've seen a lot of people use HEI as a generic term for electronic ign.
GM used a 12 gauge wire with heat resistant insulation, they knew it would get "warm". No ballast resistor is used, 10 gauge isn't a bad idea, along with a 20 amp fuse to be safe.
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