Killer car! I started out with something similar. The stance is perfect, I wouldnt touch it. Nice work.
I bet you'd get more people looking at your sedan because it is unique in it's own way. Much more interesting than a row of "glass" '32 coupes with fancy paint and a 350/ 350 combo. I call those "jelly bean cars"- same flavor, different colors. Anyone that would call that gem of yours a "rat rod" is a dipshit, and isn't worth acknowledging. Some people just don't get it! ( and some people need a lesson in manners, like "dumprat" suggests!) Cool, plain, and simple- BINGO!--- More info needed on how you re-worked your suspension- looks perfect!
Mike...here is how I lowered the car...Wheels are 16s, tires 5.50 front 7.00 rear. Back end, reversed eyes ( done in garage with press) and 3 leafs removed. Front, 4" dropped beam axle, Reversed eyes on springs, remove 2 leafs. Had to build spacers for the springs to make up for the difference in spring pack thickness. I originally tried using the original spindles but switched to a pair of 32 spindles so I could remove steering arm balls and reinstall upside down to help clear oil pan. This axle moves wheels inboard about an inch on each side, which works well as it centers the tire in the fender well. Nothing rubs so should work pretty well. Short pitman arm helps clearance with drag link as well. Also for anyone interested, I figured a way to reverse the rear spring eyes and reinstall under the car without a spring spreader. let me know and I can pass this info on if you like. Ron
GASSERBOB....Here is how I reversed the eye and reinstalled the rear spring pack without a spring spreader. To remove the spring pack, disconnect spring pack from frame pocket. This is a key part. Raise the back of the car at least 10" above the top of the spring pack, leaving the spring pack still attached to the rear axle. While the springs are still attached at the shackles, remove the two spring retainer clamps located about half way down the length of the spring pack, cut the spring center bolt on the bottom side where the nut is. This releases the individual leaves of the pack. You now can get enough flex out of the single main spring leaf to remove the shackles. In theory you are removing and reinstalling one leaf at a time. You can now lay your main leaf on the floor and use a marker to trace the arch of the main spring. This will be your template. You can start reversing the arch of the spring by pressing the spring in the opposite direction moving up and down the leaf about 2" at a time. Soon your leaf will be straight, just keep working this way until the leaf is bent the opposite direction. When you start getting close keep comparing the leaf with your template and you should be able to nearly match the template perfectly. This sounds like a lot of work but my rear only took about 1/2 an hour to reshape, the front even less time. By the way, I have used this method on several mid 50s Chevy pickups and never had an issue with any of them. Works great Now reinstall the main leaf and shackles onto the rear end. Attach spring to one shackle, lay a short 2 x 4 next to the opposite spring perch as a spacer, pull down on the leaf as the spring eye slides along the top of the wood block until your spring eye is close enough to the perch to slide the shackle in. This is pretty easy as the single leaf is pretty flexible all alone. Here is where the height of the frame pocket above the spring pack is key. Take a piece of all-thread rod 10" long and weld a nut on one end. remove the number 2 and 4 leafs (or however many you want). Stack the remaining leafs in order and drop the ATrod down thru the spring pack from the top down. You can now lift the spring pack up and into the spring pocket, set it down while dropping the bottom end of the Rod down thru the main leaf. Your springs are now back in place but with about an inch of gap between them. Put a nut on the Rod and start pulling the pack together by running the nut up the Rod until the nut is tight and the spring pack is back together. Cut off tag end of rod tight to nut. Reinstall the spring retainer clamps. Lower car back down until spring pack is back into position in the spring pocket. At this point you need to make up the difference in thickness from removing the leafs. I just took the leafs I removed and drilled out the center bolt hole big enough to go over the center bolt nut and reinstalled them on the bottom side of the spring pack. Reinstall spring bolts and your done. All in all this lowered my car about 3 to 3 1/2 inches in the back end with still plenty of spring for a descent ride. One more note, you must use the top or shortest leaf in its original location as its shoulders are specially shaped to fit the contour of the spring pocket, both front and rear end. Sorry I didn't take any pics of this process, but I did both front and back spring packs in one Saturday by myself. If I haven't been clear on any of this let me know and I will try to explain. Or start a conversation and I will forward my phone number and talk you thru it. Ron
Ron, I removed and reinstalled my rear spring the same way and it worked out fine.....but, I did not have the same luck reversing the main leaf. all was going good and I got the spring flat. When I was reversing the bend it broke. I could have been going too far too fast, don't know but that is what happened. just bought a new reversed leaf and all was fine.
Muttly. not quite yet. still have on non-op. and still tuning motor in, need replace rear brakes and other small items But I will be there soon 46 Int. Ive heard of that happening but Ive done this probably a dozen times and never had a problem and I know this was commonly done way back as I was shown this by my dad 30 years ago. Hes near 80 and still roddin a sweet 54 F100.
Yes, I had no problem with the front spring but like I said the rear one snapped. just luck of the draw I guess.
The first Saturday of the month, 8 AM at the SE corner of Cedar & Herndon. Here's the thread that tells all about it: FRESNO & SURROUNDING AREA HAMB'ERS
I didn't know that!! Why I come to the hamb. There's gazillions of shiny Tudor's. Do we really need another one. Now, the furniture guys would have left some yellow accents on it here and there too.
Lotso opinions about your Hot Rod here... Someone said "Opinions are like A-Holes, Everybody's got one" Your rides Killer...! Here's mine...Hope to get the stance like yours later...(Some good advice in your post!)
340...cool car...I almost powdercoated my wheels blue as well but went with black. kinda wish I had done some color, blue or dark green...what tire sizes are those. By the way...been to Oahu, The Big Island, and Kauai....man you live in one of the most beautiful places in the world. Been to Bora Bora, Moorea, Tahiti, all over the South Pacific, but man Oahu and Kauai are unbelievable. Never seen so much green in one place, and not a dry, dead plant in sight.....your a lucky man.
Hi Ron...Thanks...Firestone 7.50-16 & 5.50-16 Wow that's Cool, You Really been around man!...Navy? Your Tudor Banger is Killer... A buddy of mine w. a 30 PU runs a 5 speed behind his banger...Huge difference! That's what i would change (+ lowering it & juice breaks) if I decided to keep my engine... Aloha Tommy
Ron you have a bitchin Tudor, the stance is perfect. think im gonna do some work on my springs real soon here.
Rocker77...feel free to ask anything im no expert at anything but i have done the front and rear lowering, several different ways...i have a thread on here about all the stages i went thru lowering this car look under "lowering my A" keep me posted good luck Ron
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