Please help I have this 30 coupe and I can't get it to run for more than about 20 minutes every piece of the ignition System is new. Seems like the coil gets hot and then it starts spitting and sputtering until it just stops. I am at a complete loss. Please help any info of why this is happening.
Put some ice in a baggie and lay on the coil, and see if it runs longer. If it does, get a new coil and try again. If it still gets hot add a ballast resister.
6 volt Just bought a brand new coil. It has new ignition pop out new wires new condenser new points new cap rotor all that the only thing that is not a factory application is the six volt alternator what does the ballast resistor do. Where can you find one for a six volt application
just outta curiosity I ck'd the ohms on my coil and reads 1.3 and on it the coil it says "resistor required"...i dont see no stinkin resistor...unless its built into the cable that goes from the coil to distributor.. makes me wonder cuz all those parts are relatively new just a couple months old and I've had no problem with mine points ,cond'r ,rotor, coil cable...
Ok why would cw moss sell the only six volt coil they have with a resistor inside of it isn't going to work? You are saying that the coil is getting hot because the current may be being resisted inside the coil itself? I am only trying to learn and gain understanding and the knowledge to fix my coupe and make it run. I truly appreciate all the conversations and help others offer
Have you put a volt meter on the system while it running to confirm you only have 6 volts plus a bit to charge the battery. Also unfortunately now a days just because something new doesn't mean it's good. Phil
Where should I place the volt meter to test for voltage? And yes your right the new part could be bad. I had a volt meter on the battery while it's running and it's just over seven volts.
I'm with @Elcohaulic on this. When I bought my 6v Model A it had a ballast resistor. My brother took one look and said "What' the hell is that doing there?!?!" We took it off and the car's been running great for 5 years. Lots of good info on the Ford Barn regarding this issue.
Check the points, if they are closed for too long (dwell) the coil will get hot after a while. So I would try a bigger gap (points opening) as that will reduce the time the coil could be saturated with current. This will then result in less heat.
Thank you this is good advice. I have the points set at .20 how far open do you think is ok .22 or more even?
Depending on other factors like carburation and compression you will find the max points opening when the engine will not fire over a revlimit as the time to saturate the coil is too short to generate the next spark for those higher revs. Not knowing your engine etc I would try 25 to see if it makes a difference in coil temp. Make sure that you reset the firing point correctly as it advances when you change the points.
Just really quickly it a 6:1 head with oversized pistons downdraft intake with a Stromberg 81. I can try to set the points to .25. I don't understand what you mean by resetting the firing point correctly as it advances?
took my rusty pickup for a drive round town when i got back the coil felt hot to the touch but again out of curiosity I shot the temp ... was about 128 f doesnt seem to hot to me runs fine with out ballast resistor I'd try another coil
If you are stock with 6V on your Model A .....no ballast resistor, internal or external You need a 6V coil that has a nominal 1.5 ohm primary resistance A ballast resistor is added to a 1.5 ohm coil so it can be used in a 12V application So lets talk this thru. If the car starts and runs OK and then after awhile it dies and there is no spark... the coil is for a 12 Volt application used on 6 Volts it will get hot and act just like what you are experiencing I cannot answer for why CWMoss provided you with the coil they did but mistakes happen. Have you talked to them? Either way, you need a 6 Volt coil Good luck
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