When I was a teenager we would run a piece of baling wire to the throttle linkage on the carburetor to a fender on the Ford tractor. When we would start we would pull down on the wire and override the governor. Raced my buddy's dad's 41 Ford from a stop sign and beat him through the intersection.. Limiting factor was how much you could stand of the pressure of the wire cutting into your hand as the governor applied pressure.
what about the 9n used in the 41 Ford trucks. I have one and would like to use it in a little track roadster. I know there is a high comp. head for it but they are hard to find. Is the truck motor better than the tractor motor? Clark
I think you could use a 750 Ferrari Monza Banger..... It's 3 ltr like a Ford but has a lot more torque. It might even be better of fuel than a Ford... Even the tractor motors!
One advantage of the truck engine over the tractor is oil pan. You would have to fabricate a pan for the tractor engine. Local furniture store had a pick up with that engine. Totally gutless for the truck. The "N" series of tractors used a front mounted distributor until 52 when the 8N started using the side mounted distributor. Not sure if parts interchange. If properly set up the front mount gives good service for tractor engines.
It's only conjecture because I have never seen one , but if the motor is half a V8 as suggested earlier would one aftermarket V8 head fit? 24 stud? Perhaps the later 8BA head with the front water outlet????
Whilst we're on the subject of the more obscure Ford four bangers - here's a couple of pictures of the BF I picked up at the weekend. The ultimate chocolate teapot. Designed with a small bore to suit UK road tax in the '30's, it uses a stock crank for an engine size around 2 litres. Unlike the previous AF engine, the valve train was moved closer to the bore for a small combustion chamber. So a no use pointless long stroke, narrow bore, block with a cylinder head that fits nothing else. What use is it? Well, first the flywheel is much lighter. All those drawings on how to reduce the weight of a stock A one? They end up looking like a BF flywheel - although it still has the stock clutch rim. Shiny brand new clutch plate hidden in this one too. Next - the bottom end is stock B - bonus on this one is the counterbalanced crank. Also the cam is supposedly the hottest stock grind that Ford put in a banger although I'm not sure on the actual figures. Apart from that, if the tide ever comes in this far, I have a fancy new bright green anchor.
There is a block for sale on the bay, its not too far from where I live. It is being presented as a race engine. It doesn't look like a B so can anyone tell me what makes this anything more than a boat anchor? Item number 260980650831.
Which spark plugs? Will be running stock banger with these upgrades, Simmons super power head 6.1-1. 97 Stromberg. ansen downdraft intake. FS ignitions distributor. Lake style header from Matt. The stock plugs were champion w16y. FS ignition said those were to cold and I should go with w18y. I've called all the parts stores in the area and no one know that number.
It is advertised as a Model "A" block and it is an "A". There is no fuel pump boss. The babbit is gone and the diameter of the bore may be to the limit. There could be cracks and these would require testing. I would haul it away for s**** iron prices or less because of the unknowns. I might give a friend $75 for it.
While I dislike Champion plugs, I have run W16's in stock, low compression engines. If anything, I think that they will be too HOT for 6-1 compression. W18's will probably detonate. Get some adapters that screw into the plug holes in the head, and reduce the thread size to 14mm. That way you will have many more choices of available plugs. I like Nipendenso. UMMV Herb
ive got a 6-1 motor with upgrades . i have used w18 or w20 , w18 is my best plug for my motor . never ever had detonation trouble . i run 30-35* total advance , retard to start . been doing this for years ............... steve w-18 champion / have your parts guy use his interchange .
Google the number and you will find an Autolite number 3076, maybe you can find those. The number came from a "rant" on heat range numbers by Larry Brumfield The problem is your local parts store doesn't want to take the time or just doesn't know how. I once went into a new auto parts store and asked for a sparkplug for my lawn mower and couldn't buy one because I didn't know the model number. I buy my Champion D16's (18mm) off of the internet, much cheaper too.
The Champion stock number for the W18 is 518. This web site is a good resource for spark plug listings and info: http://www.sparkplugs.com/ .
The 518 is the number I was looking for, I checked initially for a w16 and they came up with a 516, then when they crossed to an autolite that they had in stock and it ended up being peanut style plug with the small diameter threads and the smaller socket size. Bill, I think I will give your number a try first since we are running fairly similar setups.
Picked up a little treat, today. I made a thread looking for some additional info. Any of you have knowledge about them?
The Cyclone head was made by Cook's Machine Works in Los Angeles, Ca. Cyclone Kevin http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/member.php?u=5780 here on the HAMB knows all about them. Try this email: CycloneRacingEquip@hotmail.com Cook's Machine Works 4845 Telegraph RD. Los Angeles, CALIF
Thanks Daddyo. Kevin and I have corresponded about it via Facebook. Still a rare bird that would be great to know a bit more about. It's not something that got reproduced after the war.
I've got one that has a C/R of 8 1/2:1. Combustion chamber is similar to the Wiend head I run now (7 1/2:1 Crows Foot). I haven't run it yet. I'm waiting to but together another engine with a better bottom end in it then the one I'm running now. Something with bigger valves too. Should be a good head for you. .
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