Bangin' in the New Year - The January BANGER meet is now open

Which head is on that banger, Chopped50? Cragar?

 

Some junk radiators, old pistons and WOW!

What's ths story? What a shame to let something like that sit... but the world has some weird folks who'd rather own something and let it rot than let somone else have it.

Sam

 

Yep, you nailed it; its a Cragar.

 

It was an 'honor' to visit the yard. Not many people get that opportunity.

Sam, this guys sells...but he's very proud of his things. So you could imagine the prices. Quite frankly, he's out of control.

here are a few more pictures; my computer is slower than dirt...it was only the surface.

Apparently this gentleman has 4 yards like this...this was only the tip of the iceberg.

Amazingly there was a 20's Lincoln truck/tow truck in there in one of the sheds that had an aluminum body...Crazy! and next to it was a 3 window Pontiac that the owner drove in...and left it.

The picture of the yellow hood; is one of the first/original school buses that ran in the city he lives.

 

It sits, collects dust and rots away,.... never another thought about the stuff.

But then magic happens, as soon as anyone asks about anything,... suddenly, it all turns into gold!

 

Mightbe the guy is smart and doesn't want to see it on Ebay tonight.

Or he may just be a asshole....... I have gotten good stuff from all kinds of people.

Four yards in more than a hobby.

I know my stuff gets saleproof as soon as I feel I'm being scamed.

Anyone with that much stuff has heard lots stories. It becomes a checker game.

My guess is chopped50 will never tell you where the place is AND ge didn't get much past the first yard

AND like I have said before..... There ARE nice people that want to sell you stuff ........ next

You know how many times someone will put down a $500 thing at a swap meet the guy wanted $200 for only to have me give the guy the money and pick up my part?

Just my .02 Zloty

Good night

 

I think Bluto is onto the right path!!!!!!!
Smart people can smell bull s#!t
.

 

To each his own,...

I guess I've met more guys of various ages that were nuts rather than protective and by far not smart by any means. I've been on both side of the fence with that sort of thing though, so i understand being protective, etc.

With the advent of ebay and the ludacris amount of TV shows and bad "hot rod" rags on your local news stand, some get worried they may be scammed while others start to think they're sitting on a gold mine. Its to bad things aren't as simple as they used to be.

Very interesting little yard you got to see though Chopped50. a little time capsule of sorts! Again thanks for sharing.

 

yeah, i have noticed that most of these guys with treasure troves of parts and cars you really have to get to know before they trust you.. i have had the good fortune of meeting and befriending some gentlemen in an around my town and alot of these guys you cant help but want to get to know.. some of them are quite interesting characters though haha.

 

I need to draw on your experiance.
I am going to use a lightly modified rebuilt "A" engine in my restored 31 DeLuxe Tudor. The engine has a 1935 S-S SPEED HEAD that was modeled after Ford's police head, .100 overbore pistons, mechanical advance distributor, unbalanced crank, "A" cam, down draft intake with a single Holley 94, and Red's dual outlet header.

Ultimately I would like to be able to run 55-60 MPH without beating on the engine. I understand Henry said his lady would run 65 but I don't think the engine would last very long turning that fast. I looked at some new tire demensions and have plotted the data on a chart. The units are 600-16 on the bottom, 650-16, 700-16, 750-16, and 825-16 on the top.


Questions:
I've not had a tach on a model A before is 2,400 RPM a comfortable speed for the engine to maitain.

How big of a 16" tire can a lightly modified "A" engine run with the stock 3.78 rear? 750-16?

 

well, i have only posted a few times on here but i thought i'd let you guys know what i'm working on..... nobody in this town has the enthusiasm you guys do so i thought you might enjoy.




i cleaned up the B valve cover and am in the process of sanding and polishing the head.... talk about using elbow grease!! ha

 

Can a Banger block be hot tanked without hurting the babbit? If not, what's the best way to clean it? My block has a bunch of flaky tarnish crap all over the inside that I need to remove in a more efficient way than by hand.

 

funny aint it no one wants to know what we are doing infact the number of times i have been told through that speed junk away only to have them say i will take it off your hands i think you have some neat stuff there keep at it and show them something nice then they all want it or at least want to copy it then they will find it aint that easy to get

 

this is my first time at a banger meeting, if i wanted to weld my own counter weights on a model-a crank, where would i start?, does anyone make there own counter weights? i would have to think they do.

 

I wouldn't put it in a hot tank. Try a good steam cleaner/Hot Water pressure washer. I know my hot tank would wipe out any Babbit, don't take the chance.--TV

 

you nailed it here. He's a great guy with alot of stuff. I have been invited to see the other 3 yards. Ill take pictures when I do see them. As for letting you know where they are...I swore not to reveal that.

This guy has an original 50 Mercury convertable parked in his driveway next to (2) 57 Birds. He gets hit up almost every day...so you can understand his frustration.

This guy knows what he has, but he also knows he really doesnt need to sell it

You are also correct as well Bluto. My friend did try to sell a few things here on the HAMB. Passed on the owners number...the end result was, he told him to never ever post anything on this site again. Bad Experience...???? but I do know that the man felt insulted with the price offers and was insulted by the buyer because he [buyer] could not get his way. The owner did say also that parts were coming up missing little by little each week. He spoke in a real bitter way...maybe ass-hole like when he talked about it...cause he felt ripped off when before he always made attempts to help people with parts with fair prices.

I dont blame him.

 

Thanks TV! So what kind of cleaners should I use that will loosen up that tarnish but not hurt the babbit? In other words, how harsh can I get with the chemicals before it hurts the babbit?

 

It is with great sadness that I am posting this, I have just received news that Jay Steel of Taylor Engine passed away yesterday. There is a thread dedicated to him elsewhere but thought I would post here too in case the thread passed you by. Jay was a giant in the Model A world and one hell of a great guy. He will be sadly missed.

 

Sad news for sure. The world lost a good man with a lot of engine knollege

 

We use a liquid soap in ours but TSP if you can find it would work the best. If you find it mix it thick with water and brush it on. Let it soak in and then blast it off with soapy hot water sprayer.--TV

 

suddenly, it all turns into gold!
this is what happens to me all the time . buying its gold , selling its crap !
you hit it dead on ................... steve

 

Thanks again TV, I appreciate it.

 

Interesting photo on Ebay.

'31 Roadster with a 2-Port.



http://cgi.ebay.com/PRE-WWII-DRY-LA...ryZ14042QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

I have two of these to wash parts one dirty and one for assembly

Got mine years ago before the price got stupid.

You can find them used or just build your own the pump hearter and such can easily at Granger and much cheaper than Graymills replacement parts

http://www.southern-tool.com/store/GraymillsTempest10SprayCabinetPartsCleaners.html

This hot water pressure and soap works very well

 

I have done this with 4 cyl Chevy cranks.
First, if you are going to have the crank drilled for pressure oiling, it is a lot easier to do the job before the weights are put on. Set the crank in the block, and make a cardboard pattern of the counterweight to make sure that it clears everything. You might have to remove a little cast iron in one spot or another to get the pattern to work all four places. Then cut four counterweights from the appropriate thickness- I used 1" plate. Wrap friction tape around the journals, and tack weights in place, remove tape from mains and check for rotation again. Re tape, and weld with 7018 rod (70000 # tensile strength, low hydrogen). If you are not a competent welder, put your pride in your pocket, and get someone who is. Skip around to avoid putting too much heat in any one area at a time. When finished welding, the shaft will have to be straightened, ground, and balanced. Don't let whoever does the balancing tell you that they have to know the piston and rod weight to make up bob weights so they can balance the shaft. They either don't know what they are doing, or are trying to get more money to do the job- IT IS NOT necessary on a four cylinder crank with the throws at 180 degrees- Just be sure that your pistons weigh the same, and also the top end of the rods, and the bottom ends. They might try to tell you that they have to know the weights to balance to a certain percent of the weight. Do not worry about this- it only moves the point of most vibration up or down the RPM band, and ANY counterweight amount is a vast improvement over none. Don't forget that adding crankshaft weight is the same from the acceleration standpoint, as more flywheel weight.

Herb Kephart

 

I have a question for you guys, I'm sure someone on here knows. What is the significance of the "Diamond block"... my B block is and i was just curious.. also, it has what I believe says GT350 stamped on the side of the motor between the fuel pump port and the timing gear side cover. Is this some sort of serial number?

 

What I've read about "Diamond " blocks states that they were factory replacement blocks made after model production ended. Model A diamond blocks were made for spares after the 1931 engine production ended for assembly into cars. The diamond blocks includeded all of the casting changes made up to the end of production in 1931. From what I understand that there were small changes to the rear main webbing in the block casting near the end of production. B diamond blocks were also replacement blocks that included chages made durring the production run. I'm told that the later B blocks were thicker in some areas then the early B blocks. You will have better odds finding a c'balanced crank in a diamond B block.
That is what I know.
.

 

Sounds about right. I've got an A 'diamond' which also has valve inserts from factory. A good strong block.

 

No, that means it was designated to be used in a '65 Shelby GT-350R. Part of an historical racing series where they used early engines in then modern race cars. The Corvettes in the series were powered by 12-port Jimmys!

 

Thanks Ernie for the comic relief above...... I think the Mopar cars in that same series used war surplus Go Devils. I remember seeing them race here at Riverside. You could nap in between laps.

Artiki reminds me that the A diamond blocks had inserts in the exaust ports only. Am I remembering that correctly?