Bangin' in the New Year - The January BANGER meet is now open

Has anyone ever used two Rochester "B" series cars on a mild A motor? What about a set of Carter YFs?

I am dirt poor right now and need to build a manifold for my motor. I have these carbs sitting around and would like to use them if they could work. I can't find a cfm rating for either carb though.

 

Thanks to all who commented on the compression ratio issue!

 

probably useless information but built my b with insert bearings due to lack of local skill with run metal but ran a modern oil big mistake redid bearings and replaced pistons then ran cheap old style oil no problems

 

...working off Indian MC basis here....but its difficult to get a flathead over about 7:1 anyway, as the area above the valves has to remain, and an adequate passage for the fuel mix to the piston area is necessary...

 

Can you tell us what the modern oil was.
Thanks

 

yes please explain.

 

from my limited understanding there are a couple of things about a flathead T (and A) and compression ratio. The first place to start is at the valves. In most cases, when increasing the compression ratio, the underside of the head is moved closer to the top of the valve, this instantly kills the ability for the gas mixture to flow over the top of the valve. Also many heads pay little attention to the area around the back side of the intake valve, this is amplified when increasing the size of the intake valve, as there is not enough room to get the aforementioned proper flow. There is the other problem that there is so much volume in the combustion chamber to deal with.

I think that the best place to look for an answer to this question is going to be in Sir Harry Ricardo’s work on the design of the “Turbulent Head"

 

While on the subject of compression ratios are 283 Chevy pistons a direct replacement or not in a model A engine. Are there other changes necessary to be able to retro with chevy pistons.

 

fur biscut is right. If the roof of the cumbustion chamber gets too close to the valves ( especialy larger then stock valves) the flow over the valve gets restricted. There was a little write up about this in a recent SOSS were Dennis Piranio modified a flat head on an engine with 1.73" dia. intake valves and improved performance on his dyno 22 hp. The only thing he did was improve flow around the back of the intake valve.
The intake track is one of the biggest limits to performance gaines on both A and T engines.
.

 

Does this mean some performance gain may be achieved by working on a stock head around the valve area?

 

If it is a stock compresion head, probably not. There is a lot of chamber in a stock head above the valves.

 

You treat a banger motor decently and it will last. My speedster has a T engine with A crank, pressure to the mains,VW oil pump and a Roof 8 valve OH conversion. It has been on the road for 20 years and over 20K miles, 4 sets of tires and I have never been able to remove a shim from the BABBIT mains and rods. Pikes Peak, Going to the Sun road in Glacier national park and many 200 mile endurance runs. Purrs at 1800 rpm all day.

 

Thought you guys might like to see some pictures of a modified model A motor. I believe the owner plans on running in V4F at El Mirage. The deck has been replaced with a 1 inch steel plate. The port face replaced with a 1/4 inch steel plate. All cylinders are sleeved with the numbers 2 and 3 cylinders moved to accomadate the 5 main bearing crank. Pretty racy don't you think?

 

So...who does machine work on Bangers in the Seattle area? And how much should it cost to to do valve seat inserts (8)?

 

it was a modern detergent oil with i think promar additive normally very good but for some reason the b motor did not like it it was a fresh motor ran the bearings and pinched the pistons im now running plain old 30/40 cheap as oil and have done hundreds of miles including hill work no problems old style 30/40 oil is getting harder to find in new zealand

 

That's incredible, Rich. Any more info?

 

Russtee, by old style oil do you mean non-detergent?

 

All I know is that it uses a Miller crank and several people don't want to see it running in V4F at the lakes. Me included.

 

was curious as to your stance on that set up. per your comments in the past, it would distinctly fall outside of the "spirit" of the V4F class. As it really is no longer a period motor of any specific make.

 

Rich, is this the one that there was so much hul a bul lue about?--TV

 

no secrets with your motor TV.... just read about it in hot rod deluxe

 

I had in mind maybe getting Norm Frick to make a head. Since his heads are one off, custom designed, the valve shrouding problem could be addressed in design and manufacture.

My other alternatives would be either the off-the-shelf Z-head (similar to the turbulent head, from what I'm told) or the Chevy 490 head conversion. The Z-head is only available in 6.5 to 1, as far as I can find. Charlie Yapp's old Lizard head (no longer available), I think, was available in 7.0 to 1 and 8.5 to 1. Not many fans of that head! I have an NOS '28 Chevy 490 head, and the Neal Jern adaptor plate is available in ratios up to 8.5 to 1, IIRC. Gen III claims almost 100 hp from the Jern kit, with a Stipe's 280 cam, and a downdraft carb. This may be my best bet, but I sure do like a flathead.

 

Always remember:

The cost of racing is what someone else is willing to spend to beat you.

Unless your one of the many content to be a 'Field Filler'

Like gravity It's not kind but it's the law.

 

Well, We will let you all think that, that was our backup motor. Our #1 is a lot different, it's a B and the one in the book is an A.--TV

 

I can tell ya we have run 12.5 to 1 on our race motor, and made huge Hp. The head is a highly modified Thomas. But it is very hard on the engine. In hard, I mean we kept breaking things. Its what you want, Big HP for one run or back it down and run it 10 runs. I know fixing it every run gets old real quick.--TV

 

figured something along those lines
nice to see a decent article in a magazine though especially pertaining to 4 cyls..
not "how to install fiberglass fenders"

 

Tom; Aparently this is the motor that all the hul-a-blu is going to be about. Roy sent me the pictures and said it's comming up. Looks like an interesting new home made motor with some Ford parts.

 

the bold seems to be used very loosely too.

cool non the less

 

So I did some calling around today looking for someone to install new seats in my motor. I found Johnnies Machine in Seattle who say they have no problem doing the job.

Two questions, does $360.00 including the seats sound reasonable for the job and has anyone heard of or had work done by Johnnies?

 

The first one a couple years ago was, I think< pretty much the same thing but the cam was mounted in a case outside the block so that it used rocker arm type followers to get a good high lift ratio. The out of block cam was made illegal and I guess this is the answer.