So plenty of good options here and not one of them suggest just using the remaining threads. Take a good hard look at things before you plan your next move! Mart Love the low buck split die! 28A I am interested in your method. Do you just use and old wheel and whack it with a big hammer? Not understanding where the momentum comes from when you're using the wheel. MR K I do think a thinner hard washer is a good idea but only if paired with an additional method for saving the threads but some of the original Ford washers are pretty thick so you might score another thread with that.
No mater what you do, and especially if you take short cuts, run safety clips or hub retainers. Charlie Stephens
this is one area of the car i want done right. No scary short cuts. Saftey clips? Besides the cotter pin. ? Sent from my SCH-R530U using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just one of the type's. Tardle/Bishop book explains other's also. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Early-Ford-Brake-Drum-Retainer,1981.html
What year rear end are you working with re: the messed up axle threads? The reason I ask is because I am not sure those brake drum retainers will work on your brake drum. If it's the same as a 1940-48, I am sure they will.
I am not sure I understand you comment. The safety clips I was referring to were not cotter pins but a clip designed to attach to the bolts holding the wheel cylinder on and extend over the drum to keep the drum from coming off in case an axle failure. Most of the early Ford suppliers have them. Charlie Stephens
The photo posted of the thread damage looks like most of the damage is from the cotter pin hole out. The threads from the cotter pin inward should clean up fine using one of the methods explained above (reverse re-threading). The threads from the cotter pin out do very little to nothing to add to the clamping force of the nut on the drum, the additional threads are there because of the use of castle nuts and cotter pins, not for added strength. Threads in the castled area of the nut do not have to be in that good of shape, again they are only there because of the style of the nut and the use of cotter pins.
Thats what i see.. i did order a thread tool. So we will see if i can torque it to 200 and see if i need to pull the axle after i try it Sent from my SCH-R530U using H.A.M.B. mobile app
I might agree with you if the axle threads shown in post #16 were cleaned up with solvent and a tooth brush and the photo taken again. At this point from the photo the threads look bad to me. Charlie Stephens
I only just saw the pic of the thread damage. It does look a mess. I recently failed to pull off a hub and the puller was pulling a little off centre. I had the original nut plus a thin nut on there. Luckily for me the thread damage was limited to the nuts and the threads on the shaft are fine. Thems tough axles, as someone wrote recently. In the case of the op I'd clean up and repair as well as I could and make sure the hub is well lapped to the shaft. I'd then use a good quality nut and make sure the torque is achieved. Of course, if a new or good shaft is available I'd use that. Mart.
Kevin, I simply got an old '40 wheel (no tire, just the wheel).. put it onto the drum and put all 5 wheel nuts on, but only a few threads deep. You want to be able to slide the wheel in and out (towards drum, away from drum). Use it like a slide hammer. Once i had my drum spinning, and the nut removed.. gave it a few taps around with a hammer lightly on the edges and then used the wheel and from memory the drum came off 1st / 2nd go on both the rear ends i took drums from. Was surprised at how easy it was.
So i tried the two pc die. It worked! Took three tries to get the right bite on it. But i torqued it twice to 170 ft pounds. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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