I've got some paper patterns in the shape of gaskets - so that's it then? Just a couple pieces of notebook paper and some bond paper cut in the shape of the axle housing? They were cheap so I'm not pitching too big a fit - and the TT gasket was definitely worth the money. Just funny to open it up and see something so UNsubstantial. I'm scared to touch it because it might rip and then I'm out another ten bucks for a die cut sheet of paper. I know it's right and I know I've been told this and read it - but it just seems funny that you adjust bearing play in the rear end with these super thin pieces of paper? Which one is equivilant to the stock gasket? I'm guessing the thicker - and use the thinner one if the races are worn and you need everything to fit closer? Hope it's not too humid in the basement. The paper might swell and then all of my tolerences will be thrown off. I hope I don't sneeze and make dust fall from the ceiling onto the gasket surface. Anyone have cleanroom I could rent to assemble this? Do I need a paper suit and rebreather? Man, I think I'm screwed.
thats all you need. when I set the columbia up didn't want to wait so made my own. Its just a game of put together and take apart over and over. good luck
...........So you see Grim - we are still left not knowing when it is really put together correctly. Damn banjo rear ends.... -JH
Ahahaha! Hey Kevin! Step into the 21st century, man. Get a '57 Pontiac rear axle....... no, wait. That thing's 46 years old itself! nevermind. BTW, what's HR Works? Hot Rod Works?
Yeah, Hot Rod Works. Had to abrvte. bcs the sject line isn't bg engh. So again, anyone know how the original Ford items compare to the Hot Rod Works gaskets? Which is closer to stock? Screw it - I'm finding it really hard to burn an entire day blowing apart and effing with a banjo that came from a running car ready to go - because the spring hangers are in the "wrong" place. Losing 7 inches of wheelbase can't be that bad...it's going in as is.....deathrod.
In this case, just don't mess with the stock settings. Measure the gaskets in there when you pull off the housings (they are usually compressed les than .001 from new) and use matching thickness new gaskets on the SAME side on Banjo, as they control not only carrier play but carrier position vis a vis pinion. If rotating housings in original postion, that's it, if swapping sides pull EITHER the carrier bearings or the carrier races and swap to the same bearing/carrier units stay together. They've been happy together for 64 years, don't mess with that. Decide which to swap by what is easier to pull with available resources. If you do need to mess with settings, Rumbleseat's book and the technosource at same site are good resources. With an original assembly, it'll be easy, and pinion depth is already right. I've heard recent repro gears require lots of setup. Originals tend to fall into place with little fiddling--gears were matched and made to a high degree of fit or the assembly line would have clogged right there...
So Bruce... What if my ring, pinion, and banjo came from one source (thanks Crestliner), the axle housings came from another, and the axles yet another? I'm screwed aren't I? DEATHROD!!!!!!! -JH
Kind of the same question as JH. I am planning to put a 46 p/u open drive "centre" section in a 36 rear. Am I gonna run into problems? Neal
The setup is USUALLY pretty easy: screwit together with fresh gaskets and see if sidetoside wiggle is OK. Then, see if wiggle between ring and pinion is OK next. If ring needs to move sideways, you thin gasketage on one side and thicken on other. It sounds like all of you are keeping the pinion in its home banjo, so probably depth there will be right as is. Remember, Ford assembled as many as TWO MILLION banjos in one year (1929)--that's why they are made so things usually stack up pretty close right out of the box. If your original bearings seem happy, don't change'em. Back to square one if you need to. http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm http://www.flatheadv8.org/rumblest/intro.htm Rumbleseat's book--see "gears" section--and technosite have lots of info. It's really pretty easu unless you have non-matched gearset or bad repro parts.
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