I removed a 37 axle before and it was no issues remove the pinon out of the banjo. That 3.78 gear was rusty but I will use the housing tubes. Now I got a 4.44 gear that is nice in a banjo and try removing it, but its stuck. I did try press inside banjo to pinion and heat up the housing but the wide dual bearing is stuck ( guess I need to make a puller tool ) But I hammer hard on pinion end and got it to move some.. -But I cant understand the design. I understand preload on this dual bearing st say max 20 lbs but where is location in housing ? I saw a guy at youtube and he installed it by warm upp the banjo housing and hammer the pinion/bearing down but had no height check. He showed there are gasket kits to find out axle trust play and said ; 0.003-0.008”. He showed pinion was then ok in play. He said not to much but ’some’. -Well I get that deal use gaskets but normally ( modern R/P install ) we like see R/P at around 0.008” or so, but nothing here tells him him the load mark to ring, I’mean one can has a play but a terrible mark. This is the combinstion of heigh on pinion and ring location side ways. One can use gear paint to get the marks and then remove the parts. But this pinion/bearing is free to move in banjo housing. -Ideas on tius.
I know what you are talking about on the pinion, I remember it gave me pause as well, it seems like there should be a rigid shim in there and for the life of me I cannot remember how it all worked out. As far as backlash, the typical .008 is at the ring gear that you can't measure, you can measure the pinion, mine is open drive so I set the pinion yoke on it and measured it but you have to re-calculate for the smaller diameter. If you search the hamb you'll find threads about the pinion gear bearings & preload, I remember a few good discussions.
Yes I will try read. I got it out and its a stop in bottom of the dual bearing in housing. So my guess one need to shim under that rear bearing on adjust height. But housing need be warm to install and after that its not easy get it out again. One bad thing, yesterday heat up housin besring took color but I guess its Ok. Don’t like install China bearings, and all parts did look like new.
I don't attempt to PULL the pinion out, I use a metal plate the fits THROUGH the case - I hang the case in my press (between both sides of the frame) and I have a big round tube that goes on the outside of the case (on the TT flange). Then I heat the case and use my press to push down on the tube (from the TT Flange end). I have a socket on the inside to push the pinion UP (remember the cross-plate). It usually takes a good MAP type torch to heat the case (with pressure on it). Usually it will "pop" when the pinion moves. I would never use a hammer to do any of the above - it needs to be done in a press.
I got it out all Ok but use the nut is not a good ideas ( as you said ) The other banjo I took appart the pinion came our easy. The only thing I did not like here was the dual bearn goot a 'colour' at some parts. I will get a gasket kit and R&D to get it back. I normally never do rearaxle or transmission myself ( or sheet metal works ) I'm a engine guy, and work in CNC.
I'd suggest you check with Mark Van Pelt, he has high quality parts and theres a few pieces that he has that aren't included in the commercial kits. Heres a link if you aren't familiar with him: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/
I heard the name only. Great source info. I saw ol’ Henry did use SKF bearing. Some bearings I saw Ford on them. Its funny 10 miles from me is the SKF factory and I made tons of raw lathe brarings for them before in my shop. So this bearings was made here in Sweden before 1937 and now I dealing with this bearings :- ) Its like new condition This gear 4.44 is in also in a great condition. Will be fast at 6K RPM on 31.5” rear tires...
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