Working on my stretched cab 32 roadster. My friend Gary coated the underside and interior sheet metal of his Brookville roadster with Raptor. He seems happy with the results. Any other experiences with this product. Does the bare metal need a shot of epoxy primer between it and the Raptor? Does this coating do anything for heat and noise? This is a roadster so that may be a mute point?
The only thing I can add is to use fresh product. I had some that set on the shelf for a couple of years and it didn't work very well. I had to buy some more to finish a job and the difference was surprising.
I would never put any type of top coat product on bare metal. Always use a primer first. Just because you want it bare metal on the outside for now, doesn’t mean you can’t change your mind. Get the messy prep and sealing done on the underside now.
I have sprayed it several times on the inside of bodies,always over a epoxy primer (dp90) I like it because it does not flake off and it is tintable if you want a color.It is also available in black
Definitely epoxy first Raptor is a hard material. Not the best for sound reduction but better than nothing SKS from WURTH is better sound deadener. Water based and no catalyst german OEs use it
I used Raptor on the bottom of the 41 PU but prior to that I epoxy primered the entire cab first. I also did all of the body work required under there in JB Weld. That was a tip from the professional bed liner guy that did my running boards and fenders. He said he won't shoot this stuff over bondo as the filler will soften, crack and come lose under the bed liner and make for a nasty situation. I recently used the POR-15 bed liner on my daughters Toyota PU, it can be applied direct to metal and over rust like their normal product is known for. It, however, did not leave a nice uniform finish. Having some of the Raptor left over from the 41's cab, I used it to topcoat the POR-15 product. It turned out extremely well.
Jay McDonald: I got the idea one day while cruising the Steadfast Mfg. Instagram page. Henry was just finishing one up. It's a 2.25 passenger compartment and door stretch. The only way you can tell it is the upper deck lid panel is shorter in front of the deck lid. I showed the pictures to my metal guy and he said no problem. I also had him roll the front corners of the doors into the cowl like a 35-36 roadster. Makes the door to cowl transitions a little smoother. I'm using a 3 inch chopped windshield and just before he quit I git Sid to make me a 3 inch stretched Bop Top.
Pictures? I'm a dinosaur. I think I'll go back to the old standby, 3M Body Schutz for the underside of the body and fenders. Done several with that over the years and has never failed. Leaning toward Lizard Skin on the inside?
I used the German equivalent Tetraschutz on both my 32-5 window coupes. The fendered one has over 40k miles in 13 years and it's holding up fine. Have a couple of stars in the glass rear fenders but we live on a dirt road and the car does get driven.
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