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Battery Drainage. I can't track it down. Need some help Big time..

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bazooka, Jul 24, 2008.

  1. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,322

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Bazooka: I just read all of the replies to this problem and I will solve the mystery NOW! You have no horns hooked up, right? But guess what you still have the wire hooked up from the horn ring itself, don't you! Guess what, that wire coming from the horn ring of the steering column is shorted to ground! Your horn relay is always on, but you won't hear anything because you have no horns hooked up. Simply remove the wire from the horn relay that comes from the steering wheel horn ring. That should fix your prob. Good luck!
     
  2. lostforawhile
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,159

    lostforawhile
    Member

    you're good. :D and it's hard to diagnose over the internet sometimes too. he would have got the crap scared out of him putting in the horns wouldn't he.
     
  3. Mad~Max
    Joined: Jun 4, 2008
    Posts: 277

    Mad~Max
    Member

    I'd still spend the money and buy a pair of dykes and cut the hell out of all that Detroit wiring and put in a new system. I've done about three cars now, and getting ready to do my truck. Just a nice feeling to have a reliable electrical system. Just looking at your positive battery cable, tells me this truck was owned by a serial killer.

    It wouldn't cost very much to just clean up the engine compartment.

    I used to buy rolls of wire at NAPA, but they just don't have the selection, so I order from Painless and get their multi-color wires. It's really a bitch when you get a car that has all red wires and telephone wire and zip cord for the electrical system. I find it relaxing just to sit on the porch and braid 2, 5, or 10 feet of wire together and make it look nice.

    One thing that really sets a nice wiring off, is the use of heat shrink tubing. Before you crimp on the connector, slide a piece of heat shrink up the wire, and after crimping, slide it over the connector and shrink it. Solder all your splices, but don't solder the crimp-ons. You want the crimp-on to be flexible. Unflexible and vehicles don't mix :)

    I also get that plastic power braid from Painless. It looks like a cloth cover, but is split like that plastic conduit stuff. Looks good on hot rods, and daily driver trucks. Makes it easy to work on if you have to add to it.
     
  4. ShortBus
    Joined: Dec 31, 1969
    Posts: 916

    ShortBus
    Member

    I suspect the horn relay too. Set your meter to DC-V 15 and check that wire at the top of the horn relay for voltage. It appears to be the horn wire. If it's live, the relay or the horn button is shorted. The horn button uses ground to operate the relay so the wires don't release their magic smoke if it shorts out but it'll still kill the battery.

    I'd also check the hacked harness from the old voltage regulator and make sure none of those wires are shorting to each other..

    good luck
     
  5. Bazooka
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 686

    Bazooka
    Member

    Okay first test is successful Truck started fine after sitting for approx. 15 hrs I didnt let it run very long to allow the battery to charge up. I am going to let it sit awhile longer and test it again tonight.

    Looking good.

    Thanks to all who helped me! Appreciate it TONS
     
  6. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,322

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Glad to be of help! BTW: I am an electronic engineer, so if you need electrical help let me know.
     

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