battery mounting location

i was just wondering if anyone can show me pics of battery mounting options on modifieds or t-buckets. location and mounting brackets or boxes. any help would be appreciated. thanks

diego

 

i put mine in my t under the cowl on the inside of the firewall.theres alot more room than you think up there...but i also have a 49 ford dash in so its almost hidden.

 

We use a Gelcell from Interstate that is a replacement for Mazda Miatas. about 2/3s the size of a small ammo can and has 600-650 CCA. They work well. In the last 2 raodsters we built they were hung under the cowl on the passenger side.

 

Somebody? makes a nice SS drop out, frame mount, battery box. I've used them, don't remember the maker. But don't take up much space.............OLDBEET

 

thanks guys for the info. thats what i needed to know. now do i dare ask, are your bodies fiberglass? do you think a fiberglass body could support the weight of the battery?

diego

 

Here's a pic of one hung in front of the rear axle and under the body.
It does not mount to the body.
It has horizontal 3/16" tabs (4) that use 3/8" bolts that screw into threaded weld bungs in the welded in seat belt/roll bar lateral crossmember (1 1/2 x 2 1/2" x .120 wall) in front and into threaded weld bungs in a 1 1/2" x .120 wall bolt-in tubing crossmember - installed to hang the rear of the mufflers on - in the rear.

I run an Optima battery now, but ran a wet-cell for several years prior to.
In about 4 years of use I only had to add water to the wet-cell once. That due to the battery is in a cool location.

The battery box proper is made from 1/2 x 1" rectangular tubing, the bottom has a .063 stainless plate in it that sits on the lower 1/2 x 1" box crossmembers.
On top of that is a piece of 1/2" thick neoprene rubber for vibration resistance.
The top of the battery has bushings welded onto the top battery box bars, these take a 3/8" bolt and nylock nuts that hold the 1/4 x 1" cross bar down.
Between battery and cross bar are two round biscuits of 1/2" neoprene rubber. The rubber for vibration resistance.
The flat aluminum sheet metal plate you see (with the Moon sticky) is a heat guard for the very close muffler. There's also a heat guard on the front. Bot pop riveted on.
Incidentally, the box was powder coated with a wrinkle black which has proven trouble free.

All in all a good setup and you can run the cables by using the long and large cables available at the parts houses.
The positive lead goes to a master switch, from there to under the passenger side of the seat (between seat bottom and body floor) where it connects to a Ford starter solenoid. Then from the Ford solenoid to the GM starter solenoid.

The negative lead ground run was just as easy.
From the battery to a stainless 3/8" bolt, bolted to the frames boxing plate. The cable terminal is installed onto the 3/8" bolt (flat stainless washer underneath), another batt cable terminal placed on top of that, flat washer and bolted down.

The second ground cable runs to an underseat 1/4" aluminum plate that sits on aluminum bushings which get it up off the glass floor and the terminal on that one is bolted to the aluminum plate.
On the other side of the plate, a cable takes off from there and goes to another 3/8" stainless bolt combo in the boxing plate. Lastly, a short cable goes from that boxing plate ground bolt to a bolt on the engine for an engine ground.

Note that the ground cable makes contact with the frame in two locations as well as being an electrically intact ground circuit all the way.

Sounds complicated, but it's not.
Trouble free for 40,000 miles.