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Technical Beam axles, brakes, and track width. ( remember my rotor thread that got axed)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 31Vicky with a hemi, Mar 11, 2018.

  1. Probably not between us sometimes I just need to say it for my brain to understand it. LOL
     
  2. It is a meat and potatoes kind of post, not really milk and cookies.
    Surely not a bubble gum type thread.
     
    GuyW, pat59, Chucky and 1 other person like this.
  3. The brain is supposed to run the mouth.
    When the mouth starts telling the brain what do you're liable to talk yourself into just about anything.
     
    GuyW likes this.
  4. 160-9240
    1.31 offset
    0.81 rotor width X 10.15 diameter
    image.jpeg
    Want 11"
    85-91 mark VII is supposed to be real close in layout but I'll know for sure tomorrow.
     
  5. Is this the brake kit on your car?
    image.jpeg

    It sure would be interesting to see how this drawing gets filled in with that brake kit built out. I'd like to see the ECI kit as well.
    image.jpeg
     
  6. Cosmo50
    Joined: Sep 8, 2011
    Posts: 225

    Cosmo50
    Member
    from California

    If you are trying to keep closer to the stock geometry, I agree with RMR&C from post #10. I was orginally thinking of trying something like this. You would need caliper brackets like used in Speedways kit #91031909 and front rotors from a mid 70's Ford F150 4WD. That rotor has the same diameter of the one used in Speedways kit, but it could slip over the stock Ford hub. The bolt pattern is the same too. The only thing is the hub might need to be turned down a bit to fit inside the rotor. The bracket is just spaced out from the back of the spindle. To me, this would be the simplest and cheapest way to go. I liked this idea because all the parts that would need to be replaced can be easily bought at your local autoparts store. That is why I went with the Speedway kit. The rotors are stock F150 rotors.
     
    GuyW likes this.
  7. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,910

    dirty old man
    Member Emeritus

    I've been staring at the front end and scrub radius for awhile now on my roadster. I bought a rolling ch***is/body that was setup by a well known shop, and mocked up with Buick drums and Lincoln Bendix brakes on the front. The 15X5 steel wheels really have at least an inch more positive offset than necessary to clear the fins on the Buick drums, and I have seen for a long time that I need to get/build a set of front wheels with less offset so as to decrease the scrub radius. Just been procrastinating about it, and I'm a world champion at that:):(
    Seeing this in black and white with so much expert opinion and charts/diagrams to view and compare to my experience with the driving characteristics of my roadster do move this up the list of my "roundtoit" list.:D:cool:
     
    GuyW likes this.
  8. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 3,768

    topher5150
    Member

    @RICH B it is very helpful. I am planning on using the stock axle on my 47 Ford and want to use disc brakes
    @Cosmo50 what front axle did you use?
     
  9. Cosmo50
    Joined: Sep 8, 2011
    Posts: 225

    Cosmo50
    Member
    from California

    Its all stock under there, except for the disc brakes. Although with this brake kit you can't use the forged style bolt on steering arms when doing a dropped axle.
     
  10. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 3,768

    topher5150
    Member

    i plan on using the stock axle and spindles, and dropping the steering arms so I can get it low with a spring and a lowered crossmember.
     
  11. trollst
    Joined: Jan 27, 2012
    Posts: 2,104

    trollst
    Member

    Vick...no, the bracket is the same, but my kit came with metric gm rotors and calipers. It is a magnum kit, all I've ever used, my third one. I'm happy with them, my first one was in the 1990's on my T bucket, never had a problem.
     
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  12. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 6,003

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I didn't have to drop the steering arms; but I did have to C notch the frame and "drop" the wishbones to get everything to clear...and the drag link eye on the right spindle needs to be tapered 1/2 way up from the bottom so the link can go on from below the arm.
    dropped wishbone (Medium).jpg
     
  13. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 4,961

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

  14. Cosmo50
    Joined: Sep 8, 2011
    Posts: 225

    Cosmo50
    Member
    from California

    I found these:
    Tie Rod - Dropped.JPG
    I am thinking of using these so I don't have to try and bend my steering arms and probably mess them up.
    I found them on droppedaxles.com
     
    RMR&C and topher5150 like this.

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