Technical Bearing prep before install?

I would use about 1/2 pint of STP in manual transmissions.

 

I would clean the bearings same as the rest of the engine, hot water and Palmolive dish soap. Oil immediately after washing and install. For ***embly lube, 50 wt and STP mixed 50/50. Like said before it sticks to everything. I would never remove the factory coating on the bearings. The only engine failure was due to a faulty oil filter, well except for the engines in my Jeep way back when. Long story already discussed in the whatever project intro.

 

Most standard replacement bearings have a thin(.0005") coating to help the bearing conform to the journal. Race bearings don't have that. But the main concern is cleaning the oil galleries and components. DON'T trust any machine shop to get all the dirt out! Buy a set of long gallery brushes and then I use a ramrod with a rag and keep at it until it comes out spotless. Especially the oil p***ages between the lifter hoes. Just blowing air through it is not good enough. Use plastgauge if you don't have mics, or buy some and learn how to use them. If you think something is not right, check it again. Free advise from from an "expert" that's made many mistakes but learned from them. Have fun

 

Let's get started on engine oil!!! Any opinions about oil???

 

Worked with a guy years ago who had spent about 3 yes as a zone service mgr for Chrysler. He said they had a significant number of oil burners in the mid to last half of the 70's. First step on a customer complaint of oil use was to take the car out and run it up to 75-85 mph and then yank it down into 2nd gear to decelerate. Repeat 3 or 4 more times.

On a return complaint of still burning oil, the Bon Ami came out. Hell of a corporate sponsored repair on a new car IMO.[/QUOTE]


My late brother-law was a zone (regional?) service manager for Chrysler for decades, and the Bon Ami down the carb was indeed the factory recommendation (and worked!)

 

GM was the first to use that when the Chevy small block was introduced in late '54 or early '55... They also had a problem with ring seal...

 

Just from reading forums, it's obvious people sometimes confuse cam break-in with ring seating. Old school cast iron rings need to he under load to get seated.

One feller on another forum complained his rebuilt engine was an "oil burner". Turns out, he had the engine on a stand before install, for about a year or so. He'd go out and start the engine for fun and noise and estimated about 10+ hours of idle time on the rebuild before it could get it installed. Oops

 

Guess he wasn't too bright...

 

Here is a different take. Mind you he has built and driven his own engines 200 and 300+ miles an hour on the Salt.