Hot Rods Beating a dead horse- how to choose a cam manufacturer for SBC

"Piddle valve lifter"

Another good read here.

https://books.google.com/books?id=sSxsHxAPgSIC&pg=PA79&lpg=PA79&dq=small+block+chevy+"piddle+valve+lifter"&source=bl&ots=b48LO-A4bE&sig=kIWKuQJ3gc4pWtthYldHIKZBedY&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjO9f2vx7PTAhWJhVQKHe2NDuoQ6AEIGjAA#v=onepage&q=small%20block%20chevy%20%22piddle%20valve%20lifter%22&f=false

 

Run Rotella 15w-40 with a zddp additive, or some good old Gibbs racing oil which is now known as Driven oil. Just need something that is high in Zinc.

Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

There's also much more detergent in modern oil. I've read that the high detergent levels make additives practically useless. Can't remember what all the science was behind it but I know how much cleaner modern oil is than the older oils. Think that article was written by someone at Joe Gibbs?

 

All my flathead Fords are flat tappet and have no problems...even with reground cams and refaced lifters

I run Lucas hot rod oil in all my old cars. Designed for non roller cam shafts

I also had a friend recommend running GM lifters as they have a hardened puck on the bottom and aftermarket lifters do not and more prone to cam failures

 

A flathead likely has MUCH less spring pressure.

 

I bought a crane " blueprint cam" L-79 for a 305 , worked good in that little motor , bought an "RV" cam from another mfg same specs as the L-79

I'm a cheap skate so I tend to buy good running " throw away " motors like 307,305,283s they all like that L-79 cam

Sealed power. Has all those GM grinds they are very reasonable I have bought quite a few L-79 from them they also have the duntov 12-18 and the 30-30 , they have the L-82 , and maybe the old LT-1 cam also

Northern auto parts used to sell them in a cam and lifter kit for $110.00 a few years ago , they sell Howard's and Elgin brand also

 

You are correct.

 

Phtttttt I got 150K plus on my 355 with off the shelf Castrol. The heads have never been off and never anything in it but oil out of the jug. Proper break in and a good cam is important.

 

Definitely, go hydraulic. And go with a modern design cam. I went with a CompCams 12-234-2 in a 327/auto.

 

If you like the L79 cam, then look at the Summit 1103, with a better dual pattern.

 

That's ****.

 

Careful ******, the m*** has made up their minds, don't confuse them with facts.....

 

I worked with an old machinist in Bamma when I was traveling around. Learned a lot from him. he used to say that you couldn't teach a carpenter to cut meat. Of course he called me a carpenter more than once.

 

I've killed a lifter on a stock cam with stock springs. Never ran low on oil. Oil changed on time. 107k miles. My father has 230k miles on his stock flat tappet 305. Me? I'm playing it safe from now on. Think what you want, do as you wish but sheared off pieces of iron running through my oil pump eating the bearings doesn't sound like a good plan to me.

 

Run full mechanical so the cam doesn't sound sweet at first then loose all its lumpity lumpity when it warms up.

Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

LOL he's an oil tech.

GM had a lot of problems with stock cams and lifters over the years. I just pulled a 307 cam that had 4 lobes that were visibly flattened. I made a lot of cash back in the early '80s changing Chebby cams. Soft blanks and cheap lifters will get you every time.

You got to do what makes you comfortable. if additive makes you comfortable then you need additive.

 

So no cams ever failed before the advent of modern engine oils? Maybe you haven't thought this through all the way.

BTW, my comment was in regards to the statement about detergents. That is ****.

p.s. I am a lubrication engineer with a major global lubricants company, I do know something about the topic.....

 

Well!!! I owe you an apology. I called you a tech. I owe you one good tech callin'.

Sorry man.

 

Maybe I haven't, wouldn't be the first time! I **** at communication. I only make myself sound dumb on here I swear. Anyway so what oil do you run in your personal vehicles, curiously? Thoughts on Lucas oil stabilizer vs zddp vs others? Clearly Joe Gibbs oil isn't all it's cracked up to be.

 

Hey Chris sorry for talking out of my *** and getting your thread off topic.

 

You don't sound dumb you used the information that you had to work with. None of us are petroleum engineers (will almost none of us) we use one of two things what we have read or what we have experienced. Unfortunately most of us have read hype published by someone who is trying to sell us something. It is just true enough to not be false advertising for the most part.

I know a lot of guys running the Lucas additive and swear by it by the way. if that is any help to you.

 

I use Lucas break in additive for break in and their "hot rod" oil in all my old cars and love it. Never an issue

 

My engine builder advised what I needed so it all would work as a combination with a 6x2 setup in my 383 SBC, and chose a Howards roller cam and stall converter. I'm yet to test it but it should be pretty healthy!

 

Don't know if it's been covered but I'd call Bullet Cams on the cam, and the last 2 engines I built, flat tappet hyd, I used Brad Penn break in oil and also added zinc additive. Started it and ran them at 2200 rpm for 20 minutes and never had a problem. My 84 chev truck all I used was Mobil 15W40 and zinc additive. 3 oil changes and it's still doing good. When I put them together I use white moly grease mixed with Lucas oil additive. I also primed the engine even if I'm just doing a cam swap, that way you can keep the lifters pumped up while your adjusting them before stat up. I'm no expert but this has worked for me.

 

I prime the **** out of it before I start it. My brother plumbs in a pressure gauge so he knows what he's got. I also go conservative with the lash on hydraulics and then adjust them after the 1st oil change.

 

I bit the bullet today and ordered Crane's version of the L79. I know it won't please everyone (nor do I really care), but after doing my research I decided it sounded like the best cam for me. I also ordered a set of genuine GM lifters for it, some advise from a good friend. Hopefully, the ol 283 will be in the car and running good later this year

 

Hope you ordered valve springs as well.

 

Kind of, the shop doing the heads has the springs I need

 

I like to use Isky cam lube on a new one. My NOS L79 went in my motor in 1978 . The little ****er still makes me smile every time. Good choice!