Technical "Beef Up" a Super T10 Transmission?

As mentioned in detail, the clutch will find the weak point.... only problem with a sintered iron "slipper" clutch is the disc is too heavy for using with a syncro type transmission because it doesn't slow down in between shifts.

 

Still pondering what direction I am headed here.

I found a Power Brute Super T10. But, with a 2.64 first gear(versus my current 3.42), I'm afraid the car will seem like it has become a relative turd out of the gate. I've been considering a rebuilt ST10 with a 2.88 first. But, even then I may be inclined to put the 4.11s in the rear.

Also, I had a couple of questions regarding going over the transmission I have.
Aside from iron vs aluminum, is the main case the same from a T10 to a Super T10? I ask because I found an iron case but the guy isn't sure if it is from a regular or a super.
2nd, I've seen a billet aluminum midplate on eBay. Would this make a significant difference or not?

 

Within reason, surely?! There is a limit to the practicality of averting one's eyes from a Morris Minor's bolt-in gearbox tunnel for fear of breaking a smooth-case 'box simply by looking in its general direction funny ...

 

It can definitely be a dance, juggling transmission first gear/spread, rearend gear, vehicle weight, tire diameter, granny or spirited driving style, lots to consider.

 

Is the iron case T10 all iron, or just the main case?

 

Did the Power Brute have the TH 400 output shaft?
I have a over the counter cast iron T10 with the high nickel gears but it has the small output shaft.

 

I've got one as well, also with the smaller output.

 

The iron case I was asking about was just the main case by itself.

 

Cast iron case with aluminum side cover and tailstock would be a regular T10.

 

While some T-10s are fairly strong, you unfortunately have the weakest of them. What nobody has pointed out is the model you have with the low 3.42 first gear is inherently the weakest of all because of the small input/fourth gear necessary to achieve the low first gear ratio. Factory rated at 275 foot-pounds of torque it is similar in strength to a V-8 type T-5 transmission. No amount of work will overcome the design shortcoming. However, I have used 2 of those transmissions in a 11 second Corvette with 10 inch slicks and they each lasted 1 season before breaking 4th gear /input during launch. I never "power shifted" them but used them fairly hard. I loved them for as long as they lasted. I went to a TKO500 after that. My experience with 4 speeds has been better with the later Muncies or a 2.42 first T-10.

 

I realize that. I'm asking if the main cases themselves are interchangeable because I was thinking of replacing the main case on my Super T10 with a cast iron main case. Sorry if that wasn't quite clear.

 

Is the steel midplate from a regular T10 able to be used in place of the old aluminum midplate in my Super T10?

 

I don’t believe any p***enger car 4-speed was ever rated high enough for the factory higher hp engines they were behind like the 409’s, 421 SD’s, etc:. Guys and specialized company’s made them work. The best thing in my opinion is to limit your rear tire width and compound.

 

If I remember correctly,,,,the only factory transmission that would last behind a high HP engine was the A833 Chrysler Hemi 4 speed .
The regular A833 was almost as tough,,,,but the Hemi version took it to a higher level .

Tommy

 

Yes, the A833 Hemi box with the 18 splined input shaft is a super strong gearbox but needs to be slick shift or pro shift modified by Liberty's gears. I ran one for a while with stock syncro's, very difficult to shift.

 

The Super T10 was never all that 'super'. A brief history may be in order...

The T10 was developed by GM in the early-mid-'50s for the Corvette, but they were reluctant to tool up to build it as they were unsure of just how many would be needed plus a lack of cash to do so. So they handed it off to Borg Warner to finish development and actually build, with an exclusivity clause attached; BW was prevented from selling it to any other manufacturer through 1960. On January 1, 1961 that clause expired, Ford immediately added it to their option list as a dealer-installed item. By '62 it was a factory-installed option at Ford, GM and Studebaker, Chrysler held back initially. The problem was the T10 had reached its design limits and failures behind the increasingly powerful motors Detroit was building were a problem. GM, Ford and Chrysler all started development of stronger replacements. GM was first with the Muncie, Ford and the fabled Toploader was next, and Chrysler was last with the A-833. Ford did continue to use T10s through 1966 but only behind the lower HP motors when Toploaders weren't available. Studebaker and AMC were stuck with the T10 only but lacking the big-inch motors of the big three they were adequate for them.

Due to emissions and the introduction of unleaded fuel, the horsepower wars were over after '72. Four speed demand and production dropped precipitously, with Ford and Chrysler converting theirs to 3+1 OD transmissions to address fuel economy issues. The T10 reappeared in limited OEM applications, now in 'Super' guise. Primarily the upgrade was more splines on the input/output shafts, somewhat stronger gears (but as noted, as the low gear ratio goes lower the strength advantage goes away) and improved syncros. The early ones are noted for popping out of gear on deceleration, addressed with back-cut syncro teeth in the Super T10. Although it seems that wasn't fully addressed with the problems the OP is reporting.

So sure, you can upgrade what you have. Better main cases and mid-plates are out there (although there's several different cases, you'll have to do some homework there). But you haven't blown this one up yet, so I'd just do a thorough rebuild and call it good.

But if you're looking for bulletproof, that's not the transmission to achieve it with. If you want to keep that low first gear, look at the Tremec TKX. With a 600 ft-lbs rating it will handle almost anything you throw at it.