Hey, new member in need of some of your expertise. I just picked up a '53 Bel Air about 2 months ago, and I decided to take on the 12v conversion....now I'm worried I'm in over my head (it doesn't help electrical is NOT my strong suit). I have read a few discussions about the process, and they are all a bit vague. I have replaced all the exterior lights, but got stuck on the instrument cluster/gauge bulbs. The one post I read, the author said you can get to them from under the dash, but I can barely see what's going on back there. I see what look like sockets, but they are securely attached to the back of the gauges. Is there a trick to removing them? It looks like someone has done some...'creative'...things with the wiring under the dash, so I will probably be back with more questions, but I would be eternally grateful if anyone can help me past this first stumbling block. Thanks!!
The dash lights will have a wire sticking out of the back , just push to one side and they will pop out.
For your conversion you will need some things. First you need a good shop manual. http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-P**...d_cp_14_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0XW8RX12Y8K2ET1A9SFN You'll need a set of these. http://www.cl***icchevy.com/clutch-head-screwdrivers.html The shop manual should tell you the basic info to get stuff apart. Some of the more detailed procedures, you may have to figure out on your own but the manuals provide a good starting point. Ford used 6 volt gauges in their vehicles until the 80s...maybe into the 90s and beyond. Ford used a voltage reducer attached to the instrument panel to protect the gauges. http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_m...-reduces-12-to-6-volt-ford-dash-gauges-2.html A video... Also you will need something like this.... http://www.partsgeek.com/5z6wv8l-fo...hopZilla&fp=pp&utm_term=Ford+Ballast+Resistor Or you could use the Chevy style Ballast Block. No clue on how the Chevy block does but the generic Chrysler style block I have used from the local parts store, ****s. I'm going to replace the Chrysler style block with the Ford wire in my F1 very soon. Good luck. It's been a while since I have been into the dash of early 50s Chevy car. It's like standing on your head working from the floor. You may be better off pulling the cluster, especially if the old lacquered wire has deteriorated.
yep - who are you? a copy of How To Wire Your Street Rod (don't let ***le scare you) - very good basic wiring hand book - get from Speedway, etc. wiring can be very frustrating but, if you set aside a good block of time to methodically think things out it will be very rewarding.
The dash lights are pretty easy, just pop out the sockets, and replace the bulbs. The generator and gas gauge might be more challenging. The gas gauge is NOT like a Ford, so don't be misled about using a Ford regulator. Use a solid state regulator like in that picture above, it's a 3 wire thing that connects to power, ground, and the gauge power terminal. The best bet for the generator is probably to replace it with an alternator, but then you have to decide 1 or 3 wire, and how you're going to mount it, belt width, and wiring--no idiot light, so the 3rd wire probably would need to go to a resistor or diode to switched power. The starter, leave alone, because a 12v starter will not match your 6v flywheel (sounds crazy, but that's the way it is...they changed the teeth on the starter, along with everything else on it, when they went to 12v).
The instrument cluster/gauge bulb sockets, wiggle back and forth, they may be tight, but will come out. Then replace with 12V bulbs. A excellent guide, "The Official 12-Volt Conversion Guide" by Randy Rundle, will make your job very easy. Patrick's Antique Cars And Trucks is one place that has these guides. They also have every thing to do your 12V change over. Great people to work with.
The amp gauge will work, just swap the wires for negative ground. The temp and oil gauges are mechanical, some temp's had a long enough tube to reach the front of a V8, some didn't, but it sounds like you are keeping the 6, so that's not an issue. The gas gauge will need a resistor as stated above. The starter will work. The heater motor will fry. Find one for a '55-up for a bolt-in swap. You have vacuum wipers so they will still work as good as they ever did (which ain't saying much!) The resistor on the heater switch will cook pretty quickly, but High speed will still work. Oh, and don't forget a 12 volt signal light flasher. The variable resistor in the light switch won't last long either. I put small bulbs in the dash sockets so I could run them on Bright after the resister fried on my '54.
Thanks guys, this is great! Ive managed to replace all the gauge lights, coil, fuel gauge resistor...I got stuck at the horn relay. The stock one has three wires, the new one has 5...and one wire goes to the voltage regulator, which I believe I'm removing? Any advice on this? Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
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