Getting angry at folks isn't going to help you learn anything, and if you're wanting to learn, there's lots here to learn. I don't know if you're angry at what I wrote or not, I just wanted to give you a heads up. As far as welding twin I-beams together... that just sounds like a really bad idea. If you want a cheap axle, look at some of the gasser axle's people have built out of tubing, like this one that Speedway sells: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1928-1948-Ford-Straight-Axles,2128.html I'll bet with a little research you could make one yourself or have one made for a fraction of what 'ole Bill will charge you...
Thanks for the link, but that's not quite what I'm after. I don't know any of you well enough to actually be angry, however stragically placed capital letters can have negative impact, intentional or not. I quit revisiting this post when I learned the following: 1. Y'all are very dedicated to your hobby 2. You've decided what types of activities you do and do not want to support via this forum 3.Questionable practices or the idea of questionable practices are highly discouraged. (this would be when I actually dropped this topic) It's not about buying a solution, it's about finding one that can be replicated without relying on a vendor to be around in 20yrs when it breaks or if you ever have a friend that wants to do the same to his. For example: My '68 Mustang (gasp 4 years to new again), I wanted better handling. There are tons of kits out there that bolt right on and offer better caster/camber/handling/less distortion during cornering/etc. I chose to use information from a guy named John Dinkle (who shared his templates freely) and I modified my UCA/LCA and spring perches (kit from dazecars), then welded my shock tower re-enforcement plates to the actual shock towers (I had a small crack that needed to be welded also) and performed the Shelby (Arning) mod. It handles worlds better and with new bushings it cost about $50 and I'd recommend the same to any Mustang owner. I got the pleasure of working on my own car, the knowledge of building my own parts, and the free therapy of time in the shop. And incase I never posted this before: Bend a beam axle to lower the front end http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/0808rci_beam_tube_axles/index.html Narrowing a beam http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168603 -ron
Most of the twin I beams I've seen actually have the words "do not cut, heat, or weld" cast into them, for what that's worth.
If you're building a "roadster" style truck using only the cab and you're really set on using the twin I-beams, then "Z" the frame and run the stock, unaltered beams. In my opinion, twin I-beams work OK in an off-road truck, but are horrible if you try to build a lowered hot rod. The aftermarket beams are scary, and you'll play hell trying to keep the front end aligned.
A neighbor of mine has two 1956 F-100's with twin I beam front ends. The yellow truck is a long bed that is his work truck and has a 429 in it. It is stock height. The Red Oxide tuck is a short bed that is fairly low and has a 302. Both of these were converted at least 20 years ago, probably more and he has no problems with either as far alignment, tire wear etc. I have driven both and they ride and drive great!
I apologize Ron, I misunderstood. For what it's worth, I wasn't advocating buying any specific products, but rather pointing at ideas for solutions that would be far preferable to messing with your twin I-beam setup. Enjoy the day, Rich
Maybe I'm basing my opinion on the stock '67-85 Ford trucks I've driven. They love to follow grooves in the road and the steering wheel always seems to have about 6" of play in it. You wind up driving it by figuring the crown in the road and then keeping the steering up against the opposite side of the play in the steering box. Scary.
I had a '73 F-100 that would do that, fought that thing forever, replaced every single part of the front suspension, I finally gave up and sold it. They ended up finding out that the frame was bent... you'd of never noticed, it wasn't much, but it was enough to screw the steering geometry, go figure. After that little experience I pretty much decided no more twin I-beams for me!
Your project is to attempt custom bodywork modifications in an effort to learn them, by making a lowered, shortened, drilled twin-I-beam, fenderless 1967-1979 Ford roadster pickup that you plan on driving on the street after you check local fender laws. Did I guess correctly? Bad ideas are "Traditional" too, I guess.
ND fender laws state that the wheels on vehicles over 2800lbs must be completely covered or you get a $50 ticket, my step brother gets them all the time for his pickup. An opportunity to fail is an opportunity to learn (so long as it doesn't kill you) -ron
I-beams are a better suspensin that that crap chevy did in the 90's. Talk about shit that wears out!!! Any way... I've been doing lowered Fords for a long time, most off topic here but the newer stuff is basicly the same other than ball joints instead of kingpins. You can build them low and drive all day with no issues. I'm not saying there aren't limits, but if you know beams they are no problem. As long as you lower it right, and align the truck right, you won't eat tires. The DJM beams are garbage, (I do have pics of one of the "Dream Beams broke in half) but no issues with Beltech or even Chassie Tech... (belive that it or not with all the crap they build).. Sorry off topic, but just to show you what can be done on beams.... My old 62 shop truck with stock frame, but 92 I-beam suspension.. My 96 used to pull stuff all over the place. Oh yea..truck has over 400,000K miles. Customers I built about 5 years ago..
I was never comfortable with modified twin I beams, i.e. alignment issues, ridgidity, etc. I opt for Must II, am getting ready to do a Must II swap in a 1993 2wd ranger, it's easy, safe and offers rack & pinion steering. But you do as you please, just check mods on a regular basis for safety.
I bent the stock ones on my 79 never was right, so i bought the kit from djm their dream beams and shocks etc. Rides great and aligned perfect, in the back i frlipped the rear spring hangers and move them way upt to top of frame looks good and rides good!
just get rid of the twin ibeam and just get the larger 1 ton ford solid ibeam axle the you can easily make it go down or up!
as i know first hand the ford twin i beam was far from perfect! when that center pivot bushing goes bad you get the worst death wobble shake on the highway it makes your bung hole pucker!
I was looking into this a lot with my '65 F100, and several people recommended a Jag IFS front end...it actually bolts right up and can be had for a song. Here's the thread: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=549735 Hope this helps!
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