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Technical Bending Back Bumpers

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SuperDuperDoughnut, Oct 13, 2023.

  1. SuperDuperDoughnut
    Joined: Nov 20, 2018
    Posts: 55

    SuperDuperDoughnut
    Member

    I found a cheap used repop bumper and threw that on my Suburban, but I couldn't bring myself to throw out the old one. It's got a nice big dent in it (and small bend). What's the best way to go about knocking it out? I'm not expecting 100% success, but more of a learning experience. I figure I can't make it worse, right?

    You can see the big dent:
    [​IMG]

    Heat it up and whack away with the 8lbs sledge? Throw it in my hydraulic press and slowly work away at it?
     
  2. I don’t have a ton of experience with bumpers, but hydraulics is controlled and predictable. You can always heat it later. Making some rudimentary jigs and push tools might help the situation along. That bumper does not look bad at all.
     
    Algoma56 likes this.
  3. I'm very interested in this, I picked up a pair of bumpers for my '60 'vert that are far straighter than the ones on it but also not perfect. I've got a 20T HF press, any direction here would be welcome... Mine are chrome, so I'd say heat is out of the question.
     
    Algoma56 likes this.
  4. When I "straightened" the bumpers on my 53, I made a couple of "reverse" templates out of oak and used my HF 20T press to get them close. The rest was done by Tri-City Bumper prior to chroming.
     
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  5. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 16,672

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Send to a chromeshop but don’t have it chromed…. They know what to do and how to do it.
     
  6. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,041

    BJR
    Member

    When you get bumpers back from a chrome shop that had dents straightened, there are air hammer marks on the back side where the dents were. At home a hydraulic press is where I would start.
     
    SS327 likes this.
  7. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,581

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There's your answer, Hydraulic press and make your own tool for the press to push it back in shape.
     
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  8. '29 Gizmo
    Joined: Nov 6, 2022
    Posts: 1,129

    '29 Gizmo
    Member
    from UK

    Put a vertical cut through bottom of the bumper where the dent is. It will be much easier to straighten the metal with hand tools. Weld the cut up afterwards.
     
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  9. bill gruendeman
    Joined: Jun 18, 2019
    Posts: 937

    bill gruendeman
    Member

    I had the rear bumper for a o/t gto replated, the front were the dent was is perfect and the back side was full of marks 1/8 by 3 inch. I guess from a die and press, that’s how I would try doing it.
     
  10. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,276

    redo32
    Member

    I started in a bumper shop in 1970, that's the old fashoned way and the best. Press it out as close as you can. Hammer any low spots with a BFH. With lighter bumpers you can use a cross peen. That heavy a bumper requires a 2# hammered against a solid steel table. Clamp the bumper down and use a 50 grit disc grinder to smooth out the hammer marks. have fun.
     
  11. A 2 B
    Joined: Dec 2, 2015
    Posts: 549

    A 2 B
    Member
    from SW Ontario

    Done similar many times. Heat and pressure works better for me. I have straightened bent steel rims as well, using heat and pressure and then rolling round again. Go for it, practice makes perfect. Good luck!
     
    Algoma56 likes this.
  12. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,603

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    Looks like it would press out close with a short chunk of roll bar tube. If you don't have a press do a heat n beat the same way, red hot, smack the tube.
     
  13. earlymopar
    Joined: Feb 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,751

    earlymopar
    Member

    It really depends on the bumper thickness and steel-type used. I found my 61 to 64 Dodge pickup front bumper to be extremely difficult to hammer / press back into shape. In some places I had to make cuts with a cutting wheel to allow re-shaping to be done followed by welding and grinding after I had it were I wanted it.
     

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