Has anyone has success heating and bending seat frames? Picked up a 65 tbird interior in hell bent on putting in my 50 buick. Its real close, but need a little more bend to get the back rests to square and clear the center pad. I want to use the fold down armrest. Does heat and bend sound like the best way or anyone else know something better? Thx
When I modified a 47 Buick seat to fit in my 40, I made a wooden buck and a strongback to bend the seat frame which is made of 5/16" rod. I was able to control the amount of bend I wanted. A heavy-duty tubing bender amy also work.
You may have already done this. Without the center piece in place, how does the wrap fit the body? It would be better to remove width at the center point of the seat backs if the wrap works well and much easier.
Bottom cushions will still fit the radius of the back that way and the wrap won't extend into the quarter window space as much.
From an armature's experience, if you bend the frame to fit, the material no longer fits the frame very well, and what used to be a really nice seat becomes a mess. You may be able to fudge an inch of the width without creating a disaster, but I suspect you have already used up that inch and not things are starting to not look so pretty anymore. You are facing serious seat frame modification and then serious seat material modification, in other words, you will be pretty much making a new seat. It may be an OK plan, if you really like the seat material and are willing to going that direction, but it will be a learning experience.
If it were me, Strip the frame down, set in place, then measure just the frame to a datum point, i.e. measure from window trim to outside seat frame from opposite side, then measure the other side the same way.. So I would hook tape on drivers side window trim and measure to passenger side seat frame. I like using long measurements. Once I had the measurements, I'd compare to how much I wanted to narrow. Let's say 1 inch. I'd cut a piece out of the top of the seat frame on both sides and fold the sides in until I got the measurements you want, then tack weld in place. Pull the frame out and finish welding. Gene is correct, you will have to mod your seat cover...
I don't quite understand what you're trying to do, you want to add more curve to the ends? Keep in mind, adding heat might take the temper out of the springs. The frame work is mostly just steel rods, I'd try bending it cold with the upholstery off, first. Maybe leaning it over a sawhorse and trying to move each rod one at a time.
Making the curve tighter is going to turn the forward edge inboard and away from the joining side panel. I wouldn't go there because it will no longer match the bottom cushion.
If you still have access to the car you removed the seats from, I would get some pictures and some measurements from it so you know how it compares to what you have. Also you don't mention how much needs to change. Maybe you could narrow the center divider and pull the seats inward enough. I agree with what others are saying about changing the curve too much having an effect on the upholstery getting loose.....but that could probably be pulled tight and resewn. Maybe a picture looking straight down to see what the actual gap is.
Thanks all. The seats are trashed and will need new foam and covers anyway. I have all the rear chrome trim and moulding that was on the T bird. I think I'm going to build out the package tray and mold the chrome trim into the seats, like the t birds are. Ill extend the lower step that the seat sits on to get the room i need. Less leg room in the back, but i think this will be a better way and i can get it all to fit really fell. the Buick gets wider as i move the seat out further. (Jetback car). I think I’ll only need about 4” out more to get it all to fit nice. Hopefully the package tray doesn't look like a desert wasteland, being longer. Ill be able to put some good sound insulation in as well to help mute the air compressors. Win, win. Ill post pics of my success or …failure.
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