I need to bend up a fuel line to go between my fuel pump and Carter carb on my BB Chevy. I've done it before in the past, but never been completely proud of the results. Those unmodified factory lines always fit great, when you have one that is. So, what is the best type of material to use and what is a good type of bender to do it with? What about using copper tubing and flaring it and using normal fittings on the end? The lengths of steel lines you buy at the parts house are real hard to get bent properly, that's why I was thinking copper. How about those spring type benders? I've got one of those Snap-On lever types that I can't seem to get real good results with. I know with all of the killer multi-carb setups around this board that some of you have the answers. Thanks for your help, HH
Some might think this is stupid but back in the old days we used to fill the line with sugar then use pulleys, cans or whatever to make the bends we needed. Then blow the sugar out with air. With the ends capped the sugar will keep the line from collapsing. Go ahead and laugh and then try it, you might be surprized. Oh, a wooden dowl makes a good plug or maybe a golf tee. I'm going back to shovel snow now.
I go to NAPA and buy 3/8"fuel line they have it with both ends already flared with nuts on them in lengths to about 3 feet. Then get a long handled tubing bender, indusrial type from MSC the big book.They make about a 2' radious.If you need a larger bend I carfully bend them over a pc of pipe. You can cut the end off and use rubber if you like. You get the idea.Dont buy line at cut rate places the tube is seamed and splits when bent.Hope this helps ---Feder
Steel line is cheap. I recently ran steel line from fuel pump to carb on my 32 and on a friends car using lever type bender, type with 3 wheels. After a few trys got it pretty right. Buy several pieces, give it a shot, ruin a couple to get the feel of it then you will end up with what you want. Don't use aluminum or copper, good luck!
NAPA has line of steel tubing that bends very well. Copper is definatly out! The bender that Duce Roadster showed you is the best to use. Napa also has a cheep dowell with groves for verious size tubing. If you take your time and practice some you can get by with it. When your all done make sure you double flare the ends. Single flares will leak or cause you to split the fittings. The Wizzard
regarding aluminum lines, ive used them, they bend beautifuly and polish up nicely BUT they vibrate and break easily, ill never use aluminum again (we had a little fire!) . ive always just bent up steel lines using my hands and they turn out pretty good, i just take my time or i have good luck withem!
When using one of those benders, with the rollers, it sometimes helps to lube the outside of the tube with grease.
make a pattern out of wire first. I use ceiling wire from work (used to suspend ACT track) but, coat hanger wire or gas rod works just as well. Paul
OK, after reading this, I'll be replacing my copper line with steel. I'd like to just get the Napa one with the flares/fitting already done since my flare tool ****s. QUESTION: If I go with the pre made line with fitting, what is the best/cleanest suggestion for an in-line filter between the mechanical pump and carb? Also, the info booklet that came with my Edlebrock carb say NOT to use hard line all the way to the carb - that it should be rubber fuel line. What gives with that..I see other people do it all the time?
[ QUOTE ] Uhm, what about aluminum line, is that bad too? 666. [/ QUOTE ] I have used aluminum on some of my hotrods. When I us it on a streeter I try to mix in some flexable line as a vibration damper. If I can afford it I use stainless, if not steel is good. For flairs I always use a double flair. I have a couple of rigid tubing benders that I've had for ever. Don't get one of those benders that bends several different sizes, they usually don't work too well. Onto back in the day, I've done the sugar plug the ends trick. Works like a champ.
[ QUOTE ] OK, after reading this, I'll be replacing my copper line with steel. I'd like to just get the Napa one with the flares/fitting already done since my flare tool ****s. QUESTION: If I go with the pre made line with fitting, what is the best/cleanest suggestion for an in-line filter between the mechanical pump and carb? Also, the info booklet that came with my Edlebrock carb say NOT to use hard line all the way to the carb - that it should be rubber fuel line. What gives with that..I see other people do it all the time? [/ QUOTE ] They don't want to be responsable (sp?) if you build a bad line and vibration either cracks the fitting off the end of the line or tears up the carb top. I just use the throw away inline filters between the pump and the carb. I usually try to use a real good filter between the tank and the pump but I don't normally have a real clean real new tank. The inline filters arenot the trickest ones in the world but they work for me.
I do currently use the cheapo inline filters, but I am wondering what a clean setup would be without going to rubber before the filter? Current setup: Mechanical pump to copper line up to above and then hose clamped rubber line to the filter, back to rubber hose to the carb inlet. Needless to say it looks ****py and sounds like impending disaster. I'd like a better setup. Are there inline filters that use fittings to plumb to hardline - I haven't seen it? Suggestions?
I agree with the steel line and a good grade tubing bender. It just takes time. I always try to work from a fuel pump that has a pipe thread to start. Get a invert flair to pipe fitting to make the first 90 out of the pump. That way you're not starting with the worst bend you have.
I have an inline filter between the mechanical pump & carb. Just make sure no bends or kinks in short rubber hoses that attach filter and replace rubber line on a regular basis. Ford had a screw in the carb filter which attached to a steel line with a piece of rubber line a couple inches in between back in 70s & early 80s. Someone would do a tuneup replace the fuel filter bend the steel line where hose was kinked, caused a ton of engine fires back before they went to EFI.
Go here . . . http://www.inlinetube.com/ocatalog.htm I've purchased pump-to-carb lines from these folks that were absolutely perfect. Maybe more correct than you need, but the OEM look is a real attention-getter.
porkn******- yeah, that could be a lot of the problem. The Snap-On bender I use has three different size grooves in it for one-size fits-all usage. AV8- stock look is perfect for me. This is a 6 cylinder to big block swap on a 70 model SWB Chevy truck. I want it to look as close to stock as possible. The Edelbrock/ Carter carb is the kicker. Stock was of course a Quadrajet. flamedcoupe- pure freakin genius. I never thought of screwing a 90 into the pump. That's where I always have troubles, coming out of the pump and making that close tight bend upwards. Genius. I'm not worthy. Thanks for all of the input guys. I really appreciate them all. Here's the perpetrator now....
sweet, I've made the same swap before too, 'did a 454 into a '67 SWB that had a 250 in it. good move. Paul
[ QUOTE ] stainless steel is niiiiiiiice. You can get it at Summit [/ QUOTE ] Or you can get it for free...Where I Work! Seriously, if you can get your hands on stn stl use that. You do it once and never need to do it again. Run 3/16" or 1/4" and utilize hose at any break points, most often between the engine and the main hard line. If you shock mount the line throughout the length of tube run from the front to the back of the car you will save yourself much trouble. Shockmounts and stand-offs are easily made by using a larger hose, nylon bushings and water pipe hangers...or you can purchase the real thing. It depends on what you have laying around the work shop. You can use break line to run the fuel line also. That **** they have at NAPA is probably brake line disquised as fuel line anyway. There are tube benders available at most part stores. Granted they are hand benders but if you pay close attention to your work and make sure your bends are true, a hand bender should work just fine. It's only a $3.00 item
Cut a piece of steel line a little longer than you need. Tape one end with masking tape. Make a small paper funnel and fill the line with sand, and then tape the other end shut. You can now bend the tubing around most anything. When done remove the tape and throughly clean the inside by blowing it clean and then flushing it with a solvent. I have even used this method to bend pipe. I always start with an extra long piece and when I buy it, I buy extra. It really is cheap and it is a sure thing that you will screw up a time or two.
Great Post - this is the exact problem that i have now, doing a 406 SB in my 61 and i want it to look like the 283 that came in those years. I tried to bend steel lines and my bender put such a big radius in them it ended up into the lower rad hose. AV8 - that is the missing link, thanks!
Cleatus-I think the only rubberline ya need is from the main fwd line to the pump.That will keep the line from shakin and crackin.When We did the fuel lines on the Merc We started with a Fram filter right out of the tank.They are cheap at summit and flow 90 GPH and you can buy filters at any parts store.From the filter get close to the pump then use rubber line. Then from the pump to carb you can use the NAPA pre flared line.These filters last a long time and I think are great.With no breaks in the line between the pump and carb also looks clean. JMO Feder
I bought a tube bender at sears it was cheap have used it for brake lines gas lines and home plumbing. Cant go wrong when you add another tool to the box also bought tube flare tool at PEP Boys made brake lines for myself and few friends another decent tool that I didnt mind adding to collection.
gonna have to do this to my car also, i rebent the stock lines by hand because my rear end hit them, but it looks horrible, and it is kinda sketchy. i really don't want my car to burn down, so i want to do this right. thanx for all the info everyone, good question.
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