Technical Bent Crank?

Building a Ford FE (360) Had to have the crank turned down .010 Put the bearing inserts in the block, lubed the and lowered the crank in. Seemed to turn just fine. Installed the caps and tightened them to about 30ft-lbs and then cranks started to get harder to turn, but only initially, then it smooths out. Almost like every time you go to turn it, it is momentarily "stuck" then frees up and turns. (NO PISTONS INSTALLED YET) I used a pretty good amount of Lucas Assembly Lube on all of the bearing surfaces. I torqued it to 50 ft-lbs and it got a little harder to "break-loose" but still turned. I torqued it to 70 ft-lbs and the weird thing is it actually seemed EASIER to turn afterwards. I am going to get some Plastigage today. Just wanted some opinions. I have never had an engine turn exactly like this.

 

Sounds about normal....the last stage of the torquing crushes the bearing against the block.
ALWAYS check bearing clearance...that includes end play.....

 

You could have a crank problem or a block problem or bearing clearance issues. Micrometer measure of the crank journals in a least four places each to insure roundness is a good place to start. If that checks out within specs, then install crank,with plastigage to check clearances.

 

With the block upside down and bare, lay a straight edge down the main holes and use a .002 feeler gauge between the block and the feeler. The straight edge should trap the feeler at .002 in each of the five. When tightening the mains, always start with the one that has the flanges, and tap the crank for and aft with a dead blow or a pry bar.

 

Stupid question I know but......are the arrows pointing forward on the mains and in the proper order?

 

I've had to have a couple of FE's align honed.

 

If the caps are on right and the clearances check out OK it probably needs an align hone. Seen a lot of FE's needing one come through the shop

 

Sorry for the late reply. Engine and crank are back at the shop. Still awaiting word. Thanks for all the input. I'll let you know.

 

I was taught lay the crank in the block with the upper bearings in place install the center main take a beam or dial torque wrench and see the torque to turn the crank. Install a cap next to the center main and repeat the test to turn the crank note the difference. Keep adding caps and checking torque. The difference between each cap should be about the same if things are straight. No main seal in place for this.

 

In the worst case you could through a 390 crank and rods in there. I'm itching to do that to my 360..