Best 110v Mig welder** Opinions needed

Yes I have done a searched and didn't find what I was looking for.

I live in a old California Ranch style house from the 1950's. The wiring is old and I have updated most everthing including a new breaker box etc. So far I am almost maxed out capcacity wise to run a 220 volt welder without spending big bucks updating the meter to a 200 amp. I could possibly use it but risk brown outs and frying my new appliances from low voltage.

So I was thinking most of the welding I will be doing is sheetmetal ( chop tops) and maybe 1/8 inch steel here and there.

How about a 110volt Mig for 99% of the welding I am going to do.

What do you recommend? Model and brand please, along with any limitations.

 

Hobart Handler 135 or whatever number they are now.
I also have used a Lincoln but the Hobart is way better.
If I had to have just one welder it would be a Tig though.

 

I wouldn't trade my hobart. It is a great machine.

 

Hobart or Miller would get my vote. Go to a reputable welding supply and see if they don't have someone who is capable of evaluating your EXACT needs and recommend a unit. I'd get two opinions before deciding on what to buy.

Frank

 

Here's another opinion: 110 units suck. Do you have an electric stove? If so buy a 220 volt unit & make a long extension (be sure to use heavy enough wire) & just slide out the stove & plug in the extension when you need to weld. I've done it before & it's a bit of a pain, but not near as bad as trying to do good welding with a cheap welder. Even on sheetmetal, the 220 machines just give you more control & better welds.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Hey old man, have you lived here all your life?
"Nope - not yet."

 

I feel sorry for you using 110v to weld with.
Nothing like 240 to give some bite.
I have a 210 Lincoln that works great.

 

I call BULLSHIT! haha... not really.

I have a 110 and a 220.

The 110 with .023 wire will stitch up sheet metal so nice you'll wana... well you'll be really happy with it... its beautiful.

220 on the lowest setting is too hot... like a porn star.
but it welds frames up like a mofo.

the 110 on its highest setting will weld 1/8 really well...

I know a secret about HOBART machines.
The first year 110's were built better than all the rest. I think they came out in 97 or so and were handler 120's. They were built really heavy because they were new to the market and they didnt want any problems.

since the first models they've cheapened them up a tad... if you search ebay get the early hobart handler 120. They last FOREVER.

Tuck

 

ck said it Hobart 135

 

I've had a miller 110 for at least 12 years now. It works great for body work and light duty stuff. I've never once had a problem with it. I just buy more gas and wire for it every few years.

-Rich

 

I have a Hobart 135 and a Miller 255 and I use my 135 alot on sheet metal. I also help friends that don't have 240vac in their garages withe the 135. The little Hobart is a very portable machine.

 

Miller, I got mine at Lowe's for about $50.00 less than the going rate, use gas not the crappy flux core wire.

 

I use a Lincoln 135SP. The SP designation means that it has variable voltage and wire feed. The regular 135 does not have the variable voltage, rather it has several pre-set positions. I have had mine for 2 years and have been very happy with it. There are several other HAMBers that have them. I too have a 50s house and there's no 220.

 

I have two Mig welders, a Miller 250 and a Lincoln 135, so I have both extremes of experience.

For over 80% of my work, I'll take the 110 welder.

It's small and light.

I keep 023 wire in it, and it will weld light stuff much better than the 250 will. I fear nothing with that machine. Sheetmetal work is cake with it.

I use it for everything short of frame and suspension work, and I even used it for that before the 250 came along.

 

I got a little 110 v. Century that I've used for a decade and it has been a great soldier for all sorts of jobs, cars, sheet metal, decorative fence. I think I bought it from Sam's and was leery of it because it is not a big name like Hobart, Miller, Lincoln. I guess they're known for battery chargers. Don't know if they are still American made but they were when I bought it and it turns out Century has been around a long time. Mine can use a big reel and came with the gas bottle gear.

I'm anti Sam's and Wal-Mart now so see if you can find one elsewhere.

 

Check out the new Millermatic DVI It does both 110 and 220, pretty cool really.....

 

I have a Miller-Matic 110v unit and I love it. If 99% of what you are doing is welding material 3/16 and less, a 110 is perfect for you. I just finished welding up my frame (1/8" wall) with it and the welds are very nice.

Remember to buy a quality unit. The main problem with the cheaper units is that the drive components for the wire feed are questionable and thus you can get an erratic feed rate while you're welding...which you really don't want!!!

Matt

 

The newer 110s do a lot better than they used to.

I have a Millermatic 135 that does great. It has the infinite heat control (rheostat-style), which is really helpful for dialing in on thin or formerly-rusted sheet metal. I can usually weld 1/4" if I slow down the wire speed a bit, and slow my travel speed as well to let it burn in a bit better. Not ideal for a production shop, but I rarely weld anything thicker than about 1/8" anyways.

And I've never hit the duty cycle on this thing.

That said, when I am welding on 1/4 stuff, I'd much rather have the 175 (runs on 220V).

 

Like the other guys said: the hobart is an awsome machine. the 135/140 which ever is the new # is all you really need for lite sheetmetal work. the miller is a little better but alot more $. for what it's worth I sold hobart for about 4 yrs. until I left tool sales for paint sales.

 

Doesn’t any one use a torch any more... I know TV has played off that Mig and Tig is the way to go. But a good old torch will do just fine.

 

We use a autoarc 135xlt. (it is basically the "blue point"version of miller america) this little machine flat out kicks ass. from sheet metal to 1/4 inch stock, it will weld it and nicely at that. I gotmine from cornwell for about 700, so that means you should be able to find one for 500. it's gas, not flux and for all intensive purposes, its a miller.

I love this little machine. we have used it every day for about 3 years now and never so much as a hiccup.

 

thanks for all the feedback on this subject all. I'm currently learning how to torch weld and also mig. Mig comes in handy for quick work but I really love using that ole torch... I've been thinking about picking up a little mig along with a O/A torch kit to have around the shop...I only have 110 as well.
thanks
bryan

 

I have had a Lincolm Migpak 110 for over 10 years and it works awesome. Welds everything from thin sheetmetal with 23 wire to 1/4" with 35 wire. I have the gas conversion for mine and run Blueshield argon. Never hit the duty cycle on the thing either. I do a lot of cages and chassis work, and have used both the 110 and the big Lincoln 220v I have. They both work great but on anything thicker than about 0.134 the 220 works better. Up to there they are about the same.

On thin sheetmetal the 220v lincoln is just too hot to lay beads. Best you can do is a series of spot welds.

I just wish it had infiniately adjustable heat range on my Migpak. That is availble on the 135SP I believe though.

 

don't listen to those saying buy a 220 instead. Shoot, if I want a lamborghini I'll just go buy one and not settle right? It doesn't always work like that. I have a 220v Lincoln TIG/Stick, Lincoln SA-200 engine driven (best machine I've ever used) and a 110v Lincoln SP-135 Plus. Love them ALL. I could NOT go without the SP-135 Plus, if you're in your garage and doing small scale work there is NO SENSE in pulling out the 220v unless you're TIGging or sticking. I wouldn't want to MIG a 1/4 plate or larger, so there's no sense using 220, that's my opinion. My SP makes great smooth welds in sheetmetal, tubing, mufflers, etc.

 

I saw this Miller dual voltage machine this weekend online while looking at welders. I also saw that HTP also has a dual voltage machine, the 160DV.

Has anybody bought or used one of these dual voltage machines?

From the specs it looks like they will do what the regular 110 v machines will do and on the 220 v they do a little bit less than the similar sized single voltage 220 machines.

 

I have a lincoln weldpack, the ones from Home Depot. I caught a lot of flak from people for having a 110 welder... until they used it. The last response I got was "wow.... this is nice" from a guy who used to build subs for the military. It wont do real thick stuff, but for body, exhaust, etc, it works GREAT.

 

I have an HTP Mig 140 I bought about 10 years ago. I love it.

It's a 110v unit that can be wired for 220v (but it's not a dual voltage unit), and it works well for me. I've done everything from tack razor blades together to weld up 1/4" plate. It has a stitch feature I really like where you can vary the weld and interval times. This feature also keeps the gas flowing during between welds to help cooling the work.

I used it for production work when I had my awning shop and it never failed me.

 

I don't know nothing about the "best" since I have only used a couple 110v mig machines, but I bought a Miller Sidekick (110V) about 15 years ago and it's worked flawlessly. I've run MANY 10lb spools through it and it's been a great little machine so far. I've used it for chassis work and sheet metal work with no problems. The newer ones are a little more user friendly, but not enough to make me want to change. I think so long as you stick with a BIG name machine you'll be ok - definitely steer clear of the super el cheapos - IMHO.

 

took me a year to find oxy flux paste for welding aluminum! that's the reason 99% of people write off OxyFuel, it's too dang hard to learn and find supplies for. But it sure is nice when you get it right

 

Thanks for all the input guys.

Like I said I would love to have the ability to weld frames and other heavy stuff from home, but MOST of welding is less that 1/4 steel and mostly sheetmetal work. I am not a production shop and it is not worth rewiring my whole house just for a 220v welder.

If I need to build a frame or weld some thick stuff I can use the big MIG welder at the shop.

Also I could setup all my suspension brackets etc and tack them into place then take the rolling chassis up to the shop for a strong pentrating weld.

Anybody done that before?

 

yes, it works well. Maybe not WELL, but it works. My welders are in different spots as well. It's funny seeing people's faces with half a car hanging off the end of your truck!