I'm starting to suspect that the reason my passenger door won't open is because the body is pinched on the right such that it's stuck. After taking out the seats, I realize that there's not much floor pan left, and the inner rockers, and most of the outer rockers on the right side are gone. The left side seems solid enough, but I'm guessing the right is a little pinched. I thought the the body panels looked kinda funny from the outside, but anyway, any advice on how to unpinch the body, then brace it up for lifting off the frame? Also, what's the "standard" configuration for braces?
I'd think jack up the entire car, then lift & brace the body with beams or whatever is available, to wherever you can get solid support. From there unbolt the body and lower it to remove. You might have to weld in some supports for the rotten side, but these things can only be seen in person as to how badly it is affected.
You've got a huge job on your hands. And by the questions you ask, I have to assume you probably don't have the experience or tools to do this job easily. Not that you can't so it, but it is going to be a LOT more difficult, and take more time. If you had more experience, it might make it easier, even without the right tools. Get some tubing, whatever you can scrounge up, 1" square, 1 x 2, 2 x 2, whatever. Make witness marks on the door every 6-9 inches, and measure the door openings at those points. Figure out what the "ideal" opening size should be> That is, if the door is hitting one one side, add about 3/16" to the actual measurement to allow for proper gap. Pull the door off. Use whatever tools you can find to push the door opening into the correct shape/measurement. I'd use a PortaPower, but you'll have to get creative if you don't have one. Maybe a bottle jack and some wood? Whe it's the right measurement, cut the tubing to fit the opening, and tack weld it place. I'd even triangulate another piece or 2 in each opening if the car is that flimsy. Do the other side. Connect both sides with more tubing to prevent side to side flex. Now you can pull off the body, if you want. I like to repair floors and body mounts and braces BEFORE pulling the body off, even if it isn't fully welded. That way I'm sure the mounts are in the right spot, and the body doesn't twist, even with the bracing. I stack fender washers up to simulate the body bushings, so I can weld around them, without burning up the new bushings. I do an area at a time, not the whole floor, so nothing goes astray. I know others do it all in one shot, but I like to play it safe!