Technical Best clear cot for raw metal.

I want to run my v8 austin healey in raw for a year before I paint it. The body is half steel and half aluminum. What is the best clear for this, taking into consideration that I will be painting the car eventually.

 

Gibbs.
Home - Gibbs Brand Lubricant

 

Vice Grip Garage has a wipe-on (also sprayable) clear in Gloss, Matte, or Satin. It's supposedly formulated for bare metal.

https://www.vicegripgarage.com/collections/patina-preserver

 

the thing with spraying clear coat over bare metal is that the slight bit of humidity in the air compressor/paint gun lines can cause it to rust stain under the coating. i'd go with wipe on.

 

I want something that wont be a nightmare to deal with when I go to paint the car later I plan to remove the clear when the time comes, but if I miss a little, I dont want to have problems from it. I am fine with a wipe on, as long as it works.

 

Jim, I used Gibbs on my 41 PU while it was in bare steel in my garage. When I painted it, I simply wiped it down with solvent and I had no adhesion or fish eye issues.

 

Gibbs, Any other catalyzed type of coating will have to be fully removed before paint as you have no idea how it will last/react under the paint and I guarantee there has been minimal testing done for such uses for any products being marketed wipe on or clear coat for patina etc.

 

Is gibbs a spray on or wipe on? How much should I get for this very small car?

 

K13, that is the problem. It is clear and matte in finish. How do you know tht you got it all off?

 

Gibbs is not a clear coat it is a simple penetrating lube. You can spray it on a rag and simply wipe it on. I've heard of many guys using it over time.

I have used Sweet Patina "sauce" www.sweetpatina.com on patina paint a few different times with great results but no idea on the after affects of needing to paint. Sweet Patina also sells a spray on gloss or matte clear but have not personally used it.

 

Would clear lacquer work? I know it won’t stay stuck on forever but you’re going paint down the road anyhow right? My thinking is that lacquer should be easy to remove with lacquer thinner and a green scotch brite pad and then a couple good wipe downs with prep solvent.
Dan

 

Not sure, but why not just shoot a coat of primer...?

 

Clear Coat Protectant | Spacecraft Proven Protection| Nyalic

 

You don't put it on in the first place. If you put something on like Gibbs as Billy said you wipe the surface down and sand like you normally would when painting when you are ready to go. Lots of people have used it in this manner with no issues. Anything else is a crap shoot.

 

I have heard of folks using Penetrol

 

I had custom paint done on my Harley, and the painter swirl polished some sections to bare metal and used a clear sealer over that then a clear coat. Eights years on, still looks like the day I got it home. I think the clear sealer is the key.

 

If you’re going to paint eventually don’t use an oil based product, think fisheyes…
I think I would try a metal or aluminum prep…

 

Oldiron, that is exactly what I am afraid of. I have some clear adhesion promoter, clear sealer and some direct to metal aluminum clear. I am just worried about adhesion to the steel and problems if I dont get it all off.

 

Been using Gibbs on a current project. I am slow at finishing. Very pleased with Gibbs. Easy to apply as noted above. I would not consider anything else.

 

That nyalic clear seems pretty good. Where can you buy it though?

 

@codywalls tested several and recommends Bulldog Adhesion Promoter. He ought to know.

 

TAMCO states that they have a direct to metal clearcoat.
You might want to give them a call.

VR&C.

 

Gibbs. You can paint over it.

Dave

 

I’d use Gibbs if I planed to eventually paint

 

I use Gibbs on everything.

I have primer right over it without issues.

Just prep the metal at paint time as normal.

 

Gibbs it is! Thanks

 

https://www.nyalic.com/
I have a good buddy that has used nyalic on a bare metal chopped 34 coupe and chopped 50 merc very successfully for years. I believe it is designed to be chemical resistant and his coating lasts at least 4 years. A simple acetone wash will remove it. Can be purchased in an aerosol can also, not cheap but extremely effective. Impervious to rain and moisture so your not paranoid about wiping it down every few weeks.

 

Buy a case of Gibbs as you'll want to use it everywhere! You'll probably cover a Healy with one can, one application. It comes ouf of the can as a stream, so after putting an amount on a panel you need to rub it around for full coverage. Depending on time and conditions you may need to reaply from time to time. Drive your car in the rain and it'll need going over promptly. Store it in dry conditions and it may never need touching. Before painting flood the surface with panel wipe from a pump up dispenser. I had no painting issues.

Chris

 

Why would you put a product on that needs re treating if it gets wet , does condensation affect it.?Of course we live down under and it rains, and we drive our cars any weather. Does Gibbs dry hard or is it always oily .? If it stays oily I am trying to imagine the sticky mess.

 

The neat thing about Gibs is it protects but doesn’t affect a good paint job later. Not sure it would be my choice for something I’d drive in the rain, but great for long term projects.
It’s great for squirting around the shop, tools, machines, clamp screws, bangs, whipping a panel before, during, after metal work. Anything bare metal that you don’t want to get rusty.