Featured Technical Best Flathead Build for a 150 HP+ Cruiser

What happened to Rod at D&W on edmonton trail?

 

Don't get all excited about speed parts, especially used ones. Used heads eads in particular more than likely end up as "wall-hangers". There are good ones out there, but you have to know what to look for. Stripped threads and chipped fins aren't necessarily deal breakers, but excessive milling and corrosion are. In my world, a good set of used heads are about as good as new ones, as they all need to be reworked for optimum performance on each individual engine.

There are dual, triple and even 4-carb manifolds out there. 4-carb manifolds are rare and spendy, while triples are best suited for larger displacement engines and can be hard to tune. Most guys end up with duals, but there are different kinds of those as well. There are "Supers" which have wide-spaced carbs located over the intake ports. These have the best fuel distribution, but require relocating tbe generator.There are dual manifolds with the carburetors equally spaced but closer together and manifolds with both carburetors biased to the rear. These allow the generator (or alternator) to be run in the stock location, but suffer from poor fuel distribution. You may also consider a 4 barrel, but if you do, keep it on the small side (a 390 Holley or 450 Carter). I'll let you in on a little secret. The best intake setup for a mild street vehicle with a hood is' a Rochester 2G carburetor on a bored-out Mercury 4 bolt manifold. Thay flow as much if not more than 2 94' or 97's, are a ore modern design, and rock-solid reliable.

When it comes time for speed parts, take your time and do some planning. You'll be glad you did.

 

Edmonton I wouldn’t hesitate to go to Pro Stock performance. Nothing but good work from there.
If you bring it further north then Total engine in Peace River, the owner has a bad**** model A pickup with a beautiful flatty in it.

Calgary I can’t help.

 

Actually last I heard they were still going, now that you mention them.

Grande Prairie has precision machine, Scott there is a great old school machine shop guy, he said he had fun doing my 354 Hemi crank

 

Well we're just bench racing lol. But I'd add, harder to find but cheaper than the small flathead. They are about, particularly out in the sticks in old grain trucks and again if you find a 1949-1951 Lincoln chances are the engine will still be in it. Weight means you get the lowering for free

 

Hi ,
What is the name of the company that does the merc cam with .380 lift?
It sounds very interesting .
Regards
Micky

 

I’m picking up the engine tomorrow and will know more shortly. Unfortunately I need to head back out of town next week so it won’t be until next weekend that I get a head off to see what crank I have. Ideally, I have a decent engine that doesn’t require much machining and I can do heads, a cam, and induction…

Where do I find pistons for a .125 over build?

Also, not every big ol’ grain truck has a 337. My 53 F600 was a grain truck and it’s got a 239 that’s bored .040 over (Ford certified rebuild in 1974) and is a pretty neat old truck in its own right but certainly no hot rod…

 

Mine was sandblasted inside the water jackets through the deck holes and water pump holes. Mine doesn’t overheat either. Anybody with a sandblaster should be able to handle it. Just make sure to get it cleaned well afterwards, as with any machine work.

 

Micky:

American Custom Cam
128 S. Valencia Ave
Glendora, CA 91741

Grind # VO-85

Specs:

Duration @ .050 240
IO @ 10 IC @ 50
EO @ 50 EC @ 10
Lift .380
Lobe seperation 110 degress.

Very similar to the Merc with a little more duration and a lot more lift.

 

I got the engine home today and pulled off a head.

The good - rotates freely, cooling passages are nice and clean (for a 75 year old engine), it is mostly complete, stock bore.

The not so great - holy***** it’s dirty, slight ridge in cylinders, 3.75” Ford crank, a few stuck valves, missing water pump, carb and generator.

Based on the newer Motormaster (Canadian Tire) rebadged NGK V-Groove sparks, it’s been running in the last 20 years.

I have found a local shop that has done several flatheads that can bore the block for me - I will speak with them tomorrow.

I am looking for a Merc crank now. If I don’t find one local, I am interested in the one mentioned above.

 

@Olboy This is coming from someone who has never owned or built a FH. I would either immerse myself deep into the history and builds and try to educate myself to design and have machined the top dog I could get done, or research various shops that do the work and choose one to handle all the selection, machining and fitting.
The first would be much more time consuming and possibly have small things to miss, but pride in it being your own hand roll.
The second would be quicker, probably about the same money and have a warranty.
A good flatty is a joy, but a bad one is an expensive mess.
As with any engine, component selection and matching is crucial, and it should match the vehicle and use.

 

Are you sure there's an actual ridge in the cylinder wall? It looks like a carbon built ridge from here...

From the pics I'm seeing... I think I would just clean that one up, quick ball hone, new gaskets, heads, cam, studs and go! I'm surprised it's not even cracked from the bolt hole to the cooling passage! That's a standard factory feature!

That '53 doing work is so damn cool, BTW!

3blap.

 

I agree. It looks good. I've never had a block with no "part number" cracks have any in other places.

 

You looked in the bottom yet? That's always interesting.

 

cool , Thank you

 

I'd say my flatty in my 34 is pretty stout, I can pull just about any hill in 3rd gear at 40-70 mph with no issues. Will outrun quite a few stock 50s and 60s cars.
239 factory relieved block, 3.75" crank
Bored .125 over
Minor gasket match, nothing too fun.
Chevy style valves and keepers etc.
Johnson adjustable lifters.
Isky 1007b cam, its the low lift 400 jr spec basically. .375" lift with same duration
Offy 2x2 intake
Offy 400 relief heads.

Compression with tester was 175-185 across the board.

You can feel the exhaust out of the pipes 20 ft back.
Gets 18 mpg on the freeway.

Its snappy, idles good, bit temperamental on fuels, it wants 93 since I am running a bit more timing to smooth out some of the radical tendencies. Chevron 93 is the one fuel the car HATES. Only downside is the noisy valve train. .014 is the last recommended so it makes a little noise. But worth it.

My cam sounds like this.


My reccomendation for what you are after is much like this build but an Isky 88 camshaft or the L100 from Schnider. Best of all worlds. I personally hate the Max 1 cams. They are a boring grind.

 

I spoke with a couple of the known Flathead builders in Alberta and Saskatchewan today… I’m coming around to this way of thinking.

 

Nice. I agree on the Max 1. Waste of time.

 

For what it's worth from earlier in the thread, D & W is still going. Here is the website
www.customenginescalgary.ca