Yep, I've got quite the collection of crimp tools also. If you're actually using the right, automotive/motorcycle-specific terminations, having the right crimp tool becomes critical. I was addressing the 'typical' 'stakon-type' crimps that most pick up at the average parts house. These will work fine in most cases if installed with a bit of care and the right crimp tool by removing the insulating sleeve; DO NOT use those 'football' crimpers that 'protect' the sleeve as you won't get a 100% crimp. This method is why crimping has a poor reputation in vehicles; these were never designed for vehicle use in the first place... I've gone to Deutch connectors for all my car/bike plug connections, as I've found these to be extremely reliable and relatively easy to install. The crimp tool and the plug parts aren't cheap, but the full environmental sealing, built-in strain relief, and ease of replacing/moving wires in the plugs makes them worth it to me. The GM 'molex' connectors are pretty good too, but not as robust and less forgiving of install mistakes. The plastic they use breaks easier too. Yeah, I know all the 'old' methods.... I'm a third-generation wireman. They were the best known 'in the day', but knowledge marches on and there's no reason today to use them given the new technologies readily available. They went out of favor for a reason, and it wasn't just cost; they really are inferior.
The right tool is important, and using the right tool correctly is just as important! Those Stakon tools with the indent on them work so much better than anything else, and even though they damage an insulated connector, they don't do so in a manner that they could short to something. I shrink over them anyway, so no harm. What does become a problem is when people crimp connectors with this type of tool, and don't align the indent properly. The indent should always be on the back side of a connector, as the split done in manufacturing these connectors is dead center front, and if it's indented on the front it will open the split, which causes the connection to fail. If using them on a butt splice you need to look into the connector, and roll it so you're crimping the split away from the indenter also.
Yep, you gotta pay attention when doing electrical connections. It's just like anything else, somebody who knows what they're doing makes it look easier than it really is.... or easier that it will be for you until you've acquired the skill... LOL!
I suck at soldering. Especially when wires are in situ. Can never get them hot enough with my pencil to melt the solder.
You need a higher wattage iron. The tiny ones are for circuit boards. You can get heating elements for high end pencil irons up to about 50-60 watts, and American Beauty makes really serious irons. I have a 300 watt one I use on sheet metal.
I had problems with the wiring harness on a new big tanker truck that had LED lights. The coating on the wire was siphoning condensation from the LED light housing up into the harness where it was corroding. Apparently the LEDs don't create enough heat to cook of the condensate so all wiring must be uphill from the lights. I became a big fan of LIQUID ELECTRICAL TAPE for sealing out moisture. Even if your ride never sees rain, temp changes cause condensation. I had all the wiring connections in a gauge cluster/junction box corrode because it was weathertight and couldn't breathe. I drilled a hole in the bottom for air and also installed a regular bulb to keep it heated.
Ducati now uses AMP connectors, mostly in the Superseal 1.5 series. They're decent and not exorbitantly priced. Deutsch is the Rolls-Royce of connectors, especially the series that's used in pro racing applications. It's become standard for high end electronics. The GM Weatherpack and Metripack series are OK and have the advantage of being widely available through automotive sources. Good in a pinch.
BUMP! I have an old Wen soldering gun, the tips look like this. Anyone used these? I'd like to get some new tips but not seeing any available.
I betcha could "roll yer own" with some square copper buss wire or something like that. I bought a Weller station some years ago, they are slick.
I use a weller pencil iron. Have a larger one, but the pencil is nice and light and you can "ring finger hold" if you get into a spot where you need 3 hands. Get a couple alligator clips on magnets while youre at it.
Just because he owns the tool doesn't mean he has to use it. Maybe it's for little Bob for Christmas?
Bump! I just bought this Weller battery powered iron at a garage sale for 2 bucks, new in package. Looked like it might come in handy under a dash or what not. Anyone have one? So, I went to put batteries in it this morning, can't pop the end off. The directions say press on the sides and remove. I've presses as hard as I can with fingers, then got the channel locks briefly. Before I crack it open, anyone know the secret?
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