I am trying to figure out the best way to design the rear suspension for my '32 truck. I have a reproduction '32 frame and have a '48 open-drive truck banjo rear. The original parallel spring mounts have already been cut off and I want to convert it to transverse spring. I would like to use as many old Ford parts as possible, so I was thinking of using Ford rear radius rods, split slightly to clear the open drive shaft. But I don't really know the nuances and differences in the years of rear radius rods. Please help me design a good solution for this truck. For what it's worth, I also plan to use a '48 truck transmission (open-drive) mated to a '50 8BA flathead. Thanks, don
if you can find them 35 36 Ford rear radus rods work well with Model A spring mounted behind the axle. Or a 40 Ford rear spring mounted over the axle.
I did this with the Rocky 33 pickup, using 40 p***enger car axle housings and a 40 wishbone. Split the rear bone and ran them up the outsides of the rails. Mounted them with real live Speedway tie rod ends attached to Rocky-made brackets, welded to the bottom of the frame rails. I was asking those 40 bones to control all the rotational forces of the rear axle under acceleration. They weren't designed to do that job and are inadaquate unless you have a low power engine, skinny rear tires, ultra light car and drive with a feather foot. My car qualilfied and I had no problems with my setup but I wouldn't recommend it for anything heavier than my flyweight hot rod. T-man and I bs'd about this problem at length and he came up with a ***** torque arm setup for his T-touring project. I was planning on one for my car too but he bought it before I could slam my plan into action....
Thanks for the input, guys. Rocky, I know that the radius rods were not designed to be torsional members, that's why I planned on only splitting them a short distance -- enough to clear the driveshaft. I forgot to consult the Tardel/Bishop book, and once I did, the answer is right there. For open drivetrains, they recommend using the long 1935-37 rods. I ***ume this is because they trianglulate the rear better. There is also apparently a splitting kit from Specialty Ford, and I'll look into that. Does anyone have an opinion on whether the orginal radius rods should be reinforced, and if so, how? Now that I know what I need, anyone have some radius rods they want to send my way?
[quote they recommend using the long 1935-37 rods. I ***ume this is because they trianglulate the rear better. There is also apparently a splitting kit from Specialty Ford, and I'll look into that. Does anyone have an opinion on whether the orginal rad [/ QUOTE ] DO NOT USE ANY OTHER REAR RADIUS ROD other than 35-36 even those are a little wimpy but they work, the others are very thin sheetmetal..... other than 35-36 rears i have used front bones from 35-48 those are very thick and seem to work well
Don, I'm sending you a PM, have 1935-36 rear trumpets and rear part of raduis rods. Can drop off in Doylestown next week to save you shipping fees. Bob
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