I've done 5 cars so far. 3 with Rebel kits, 1 with a painless kit and 1 out of spools of wiring (won't do that again) not a bad job. Rip out everything existing keeping any weird plugs you might need to reuse and lay out your new setup. Route the wires the best way for you and route them all where you want them before cutting and actually attaching them. Once everything is in place attach everything and hold your breath when you connect the battery
I used Bob Miller's wiring from Rebel Wiring, used him a couple of times, good support if you need it, you'll do fine.
Check into the highway 15 harness by American autowire, I wired my first truck with one and ended up buying two more kits for future projects!! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I agree that you'd have to be crazy not to start with a kit. By far the easiest and cheapest way to go and will leave you with a superior result in the end, especially since the wires are individually labelled on the sheathing. It's also proper to rip all out and start fresh, however, if your car is running now, take some time to go around with a test light and label what things are. Label what turn signal wires do what, parking lights.... This will make things go easier when you're putting it all back Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So let me ask you a question. Why are you doing this? Is it because you've changed a lot of the things or just be the wireing is worn out? If your Buick is for the most part all stock, did you know you can buy a direct replacement harness? The Wizzard
Also are you aware there is a big change in wire products from 6V to 12V? If your still 6V I would not us the standard E-Z- wire kit. The replacement wireing comes in sections so you can do what's needed if a Total replace is not necessary. It's a little more $$$ but may be a better choice. There product is a direct Plug and Play and I have used lot's of there products over the years. Always had like Factory results, Never had to splice or crimp a terminal. I understand this may not be what you need but thought I'd let you know it's out there. The Wizzard
any suggestions on a good alternator to replace the generator and i will have to find a resistor for the ampmeter
Alot of the wiring is shot. I have traced a bunch of wires that are frayed, chewed, or previous owner brilliant fixes. Example one wire to the ignition from the generator is literall just wrapped bare around the wire from the starter. Some makeshift splicing. Im going to go with the rebel kit and just switch over to 12v for safety and daily use. I know there are big changes from 6 volt to 12 volt.
The buick is mostly stock but later down the road i might switch a lot out. i would like to use more often then just sitting in the garage.
If it were me, I would go with the first generation GM alternator that had the regulator built in, those date back to early 70s and were used for many years. On the old amp gauge, you don't need a resistor for amps. But a change to make it a voltmeter is a best choice. Super easy wire and safer, and more accurate The gas gauge and possibly the water temp if electric, will need resistors You will have to compare the Rebel instructional diagram to your Buick diagram, and some rework will be needed, but not a real problem. The older cars used some different parts/relays etc for starting.
Get this a lot of good tips and EZ to read worth every penny. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Book-How-To-Wire-Your-Street-Rod,2824.html
I have a GM 3-wire alternator in my Ford and I just followed the wiring kit, it was very easy. Alternator was a 1974-ish Chevy core with the internal regulator, 63 amps. Plenty for your car.
Can't go wrong with your run-of-the-mill GM 1 wire. 80 Amps, easy install, cheap, reliable... best option by far.
Before buying a one-wire alternator, read this: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/remotevoltagesensing.shtml ... then this: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml
Here's how the kit from Rebel looks when you get it ..... very neat and grouped in sections, primary , tail lights , headlights etc.
Start by drawing up a schematic your harness then it is simple to do later. All that is important is the ends of the wires [not the tangled mess in between] I managed to totally rewire a Lotus Cortina using 3 lots of trailer wire conduit [LF 7 core / RF 7 core and rear 5 core] it was very tidy and everything worked [street legal] for example: The rear harness which was 5 core was: L turn/ R turn/ Tail & License plate/ Stop/ Electric fuel pump The LF harness which was 7 core was" L turn/L Hi Beam/L Lo Beam/L Park Light/ Horn/ Alternator/ Alternator Exciter The RF harness which was 7 core was" R turn/R Hi Beam/R Lo Beam/R Park Light/ Electric Fan/ Ignition Coil/ Coil to Tach It was every tidy in the engine bay. Everything was spliced together up under the dash via a fusebox, flashers etc etc And use a multi meter with a couple of alligator clips [to "see" the wire]
howdy guys.....to the ones uasing a rebel harness.....is the labelling on the wire clear and easy to read ???? I am in the process of installing one in my rod but am having problem reading the writing on the wire... damn near on impossible on some.....very smudged and faint
Rewiring a car is not as easy as some let on especially if you have never done one and are not an expert in electrical systems. I suggest you buy a replacement harness made specifically for your car even if it costs more. It will save you a lot of grief and money. Take out the old wiring and put in the new harness according to instructions. It helps to break the job down and concentrate on one system or even one wire at a time. If you run into a problem ask. Do not go getting ideas of your own if it means cutting up and changing the wiring.
If I was you, I would pull out all the wiring and start fresh. Personally, I absolutely hate painless wiring. I have used some others that have worked well. But, what I would recommend, which I use on every car is Centech. http://www.centechwire.com/PDP-1B-High-Tech-Fuse-Panel-PDP-1B.htm Call them up, he will ask you questions about what your car has, and he will put together a harness for you. One thing I think is a huge benefit the the centech kits, is that the wires are not already connected to the fuse panel. So you can start from your component, and wire back to the fuse panel. I find it much easier this way, and it makes it easier to do nice wiring, because you don't have to fight with that bundle or wires hanging out the whole time. You also don't have to worry about cutting wires off the panel that you don't need. You simply don't install them. I have used many of these kits, and never had an issue.
My dad has a copy of this: The "from scratch" approach seems to be well enough thought out, though I haven't tested it in practice.
The Jalopy Journal
