Projects Better fusible link replacement ?

Well, if you are able to fix the problem, a fuse is easier to replace than a burnt link; especially on the side of the road.

 

And that's why I'm looking for a better answer.

 

Other than fusing the alternator with a marine fuse block (MRBF) because the batteries are in the rear, I've used nothing but manual reset marine breakers in my car since the late 80's. No carrying spares, no changing fuses, just check the panel for the tripped circuit, find the problem, fix it and reset the breaker. I have three 8 ga. leads with 50 amp mains that feed to the sub circuits with their individual breakers.

Works for me.

 

One upside of fusing the alternator circuit is that it has a chance of saving the alternator if someone connects the battery (or jumper cables) reversed. Yes, I know, it shouldn't happen, we all are smarter than that, but it still does for some reason.

 

Thats a more accurate way of saying it. The bottom line is they both have to be selected based on the maximum output of the alternator rather than just "starting with a 50 AMP" as you recommended above. In cars that are being built with minimal electrical needs, like basic hot rods with a small amp alternator, the 50 probably works just fine. In cars that will have a larger amp alternator (like mine), I think the builder needs to find what wire will support that ampacity and what fuze or breaker will support that wire and provide the wire a safety factor. The reason I think most builders need to think before they buy even on a basic hot rod is the use of electric fans on so many of our cars today. Those fans can place a pretty large load on the system even if there isn't any A/C or computer on the car. I don't think it hurts to have excess capacity (within reason) in an alternator and the main wiring, but erring on the too little side (alt or wiring) can be problematic. Thanks for clarifying my original comment.

 

Not necessarily. If it shorts internally and the short isn't to ground, it can cause a heavy load on the charge wire, and all the way to the battery. Depending on how fast the wire might melt it could even do damage to the battery also.

 

Regardless of where the battery is located, you don't need the charge wire to go directly to the battery. It can either go to the starter if the starter has a solenoid mounted on it, or to wherever the closest solenoid or device that's connected by a battery cable to the battery. Running it all the way to the battery just creates a longer charge wire with more chance of being shorted accidentally.