I just swapped out the 15 inch radials for the 16 inch bias plys on my 46 Ford tudor. I did not notice much difference in the ride. My 33 Ford truck has 16 bias on it too.
If the people aren't very car savvy - I say roll 'em on radials - they'll be happiest, especially if doing much freeway driving - especially up our way with the grooved for rain traction roads - if they aren't so much into the 'scene' - they won't care about bias ply anyhow. My personal rule of thumb is if it has independent suspension - radials will make it drive/track/ride better. If it's got a beam axle up front - bias all the way, unless it's say a fat fender or later model with tires tucked waaay up. If ya can't see the tread, it don't really matter, and the rads will drive nicer. No fenders? No question. Crossplies. I know - here comes a ****storm, but it's my opinion. Tim
<TABLE cl***=contentpaneopen><TBODY><TR><TD cl***=contentheading width="100%">.......a must read! Bias Ply Versus Radial Tires </TD><TD cl***=****onheading align=right width="100%"> </TD><TD cl***=****onheading align=right width="100%"> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cl***=contentpaneopen><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top colSpan=2>What is the difference between the two? The main difference lies in the tire's construction. The basic carc*** of all tires is made up of layers of rubber permeated fabric. These layers are referred to as plies, and the most common fabric used today is polyester. The method or the direction these plies are applied, with relations to each other and to the center line of the tread, differentiates between a bias and a radial tire. The plies on a bias tire run approximately 45 degrees to the center line of the tread, alternating in direction with each layer; thus, they crisscross or run in 90 degree angles to each other. This design or style of construction was common on all tires provided as original equipment, on U.S. built cars, until the early 1970s. The plies on a radial tire run 90 degrees to the center line of the tire and basically overlap instead of crisscrossing. This new design, actually developed during the Second World War , allows the side walls of the tire to be more flexible which provides less rolling resistance, providing better gas mileage, and longer tread life. This flex also promotes better adherence to the road, thus better handling on both wet and dry surfaces. The radial tire found early acceptance in Europe, and finally became standard equipment on most U.S. p***enger cars by 1974. Physical comparison of the older style bias ply tire and the modern style radial ply tire also reflects a change in aspect ratio, seen in the relationship of the height and width of the tire cavity. The cavity of the earliest tires was basically round, 100 aspect ratio (inflate an inner tube outside of the tire and its cavity is basically round; the height and the width of the cavity are the same). Through the years, most bias ply tires had an 82 aspect ratio; the height of the cavity was 82% of the width, wider than the earliest tires but still some what tall and skinny. Profiles changed in the mid 1960s to 78 and even70 aspect ratios providing lower profile tires with more tread face on the road and shorter side walls, a little firmer ride but more responsive handling. When the Radial tires came on the scene they were built with the lower aspect ratios, therefore we generally acquaint bias ply tires as tall and skinny, while the radial tires are considered short and wide. As the aspect ratios decreased (tires became shorter and wider), tire engineers determined that belts could be layered under the tread to provide better tread face integrity. These belts were originally constructed of rubber permeated fibergl*** mesh; we referred to them as fibergl*** belts, then later steel mesh; which we refer to today as steel belts. Bias ply tires were belted during the 1960s, particularly on the lower aspect ratio performance tires, but for the most part, in our minds, we only correlate belted tires, more specifically steel belted tire with modern radials. So what does all this mean to you as an antique or collector car owner? It actually means a lot. The bias ply tire offers originality, a concept that is foundational to our hobby whether you have a completely original car or a customized street rod. The bias ply tire has, and continues to provide utility service and esthetic appeal for folks who desire a period look and originality. They are as safe and reliable, even more so today with modern materials, as they ever were, and lets face it; we drove on bias ply tires for over 70 years on much worse roads they we have today. Is the radial tire better? Of course it is. Its the new improved tire. In fact, its a better tire today than it was when it was first introduced as Original Equipment in 1973. Its design is better for road and hwy use. It is safer; it provides higher gas mileage, longer tread life, and better handling. How much safer, how much higher, how much longer, and how much better? It depends on the specific vehicle, how much it is driven and most importantly, how it is driven. Should you install radial tires instead of the original bias ply? This question ultimately has to be answered by the owner of the vehicle. It comes down to form over function; is it worth what you gain by installing radial tires compared to what you give up by not installing original style tires. Our hope is that this information will help you make an informed decision. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
In short, simple terms I had awesome FIRESTONE bias-plys on my 32. It had a pretty good vibration when driving any speed. I put some whitewall radials on it and the thing felt like it was floating down the road... HUGE difference. I loved the look of the bias-plys but I got wider rear radials and was able to get skinny radials so I still love the look and I prefer the radials being that I intend to drive it!
i have ran both bias and radials and i perfer the radials the handle better specially in the rain although i read that coker has improved the bias tire many of my friends run 520-14 and say they can tell the difference.leave the tire choice to the people buying the car keeps the lieability off of you.
I am running the Coker cl***ics on my 53 Caddy. Cruises great at 75 on the interstate plus i love the 4 " whitewalls.
"Novelty Tires" (Cokers) are great for yard art and garage queens...but I wouldn't drive too far on them. What is the intended purpose of this car? Does he want to LOOK at it...or DRIVE it? If he wants to look at it, run Cokers. If he wants to drive it, buy decent radials or NOS bias plys.