So I started spraying my metalflake panels on the side of my van and this happened in about a dozen spots: First coat was fine and then this happened on the second coat. Now what the hell can I do to fix this? I'm totally pissed and bummed out!
I paint my own stuff and am by no means a pro but ive flaked a ton of **** and painted alot of cars. I think it was a matter of either going on to thick too quick , but probably some gease or unclean areas under the paint. . prep is the most important thing in the world when painting .... **** just having grease near by can mess up a good paint job... hope it helps , i know it ****s to redo it , but your going to have to . and dont just sand it smooth and try it again , you gotta take it all the way back down in those areas and start from scratch or it will happen again.. hope it helps
I haven't painted a car yet, but that looks like the same mark I have gotten with rattle can before. That's normally from either spraying over a dirty spot like notrad13 said, or not having the paint mixed well enough. I don't know if the same will apply to auto paint.
"HEY MAN" dis ain't good at all,!, you are going to have to remove all that old paint under the flake, your solvents are eating it up ! it will happen every time you try it,,, till it's gone . sorry for the bad news but thats the way is man !!!
To me it looks like you went to thick to fast? Flake is heavy it looks like it pulled away, no adhesion. I am an inpatient person but when painting (ESPECIALLY flake) you need to take your time. Like my daddy always told me, I didnt have time to do it right the first time but I had the time to redo it? Patience
The paint is lifting.... The cause is a chemical reaction and can't be fixed without removing the damaged area and resolving the conflict in material... The material you're using is not compatable, for some reason or other, with the base upon which you've sprayed the flake. A typical reason for this problem is spraying one type of material....lacquer for example.....over an un-cured base base, such as a surface that had been repainted in enamel. What's happening is the thinner in your flake has soaked through and bitten into the material underneath. What kind of material are you using?? Did you strip the old surface to metal and build it back up using catalyzed materials from the same manufacturer??
you might try contacting the paint rep for that product and ask him. make a list of all the products that you've applied in their particular order , so that he might be able to get you on the right track. It does appear that you may have not waited long enough bbetween coats and layed it on a little heavy . good luck
What is your carrier for the flake? If you are spraying a 2K type clear you have a fairly small (hour or two maybe) window to overcoat, otherwise you need to wait for it to flash off entirely - like as in 24 hours plus. The solvent is reacting with uncured paint (hope this explanation is technically accurate) I used intercoat (basecoat) clear as the carrier the one time I sprayed flake and it went fine. Until the second round of topcoat from being impatient. 3 days before a big show. And yes I couldn't wait to spray one more round, but had time to redo the whole job. Go figure.
Yeah, I'm using an intercoat clear to spray my flake in and it seems to have happened where I hit it a little heavy. I guess right now I'm going to sand everything down to the old primer coat and start again. One thing I didn't do and was recommended was to catalyze the base about 10%. I'm using all Omni products and had no problem spraying and flaking the roof or the dash, the only thing I did different this time was to go over a sanded clearcoat and I did that because the side panels were something I wasn't sure I was going to do.
Rich Wright. hit it..It haz nothing to do with the flake. When u sanded your clear u got it thin enuf or broke through. Reducer in the intercoat got under that clear.and Bam..If the clear is fresh not all the way cured. seems to hapen ..or to say if the clear is all the way cured...it usuely wont happen. If ur going to sand clear spend the time to get extra coats on...Hope this helps.
It makes sense, thanks everyone for the helpful info. I most defiantly make sure I use more clear next time.
Im wondering if you can feather it out and hit with a sealer........And then reapply .Im sorry for you .That ****s big time.............
I have shot a lot of Omni AU over lacquer without problems, but its always been within the hour. Other wise I get the same thing you have which we call alligatoring. I did a table top a while back and thought it was paint incompatibility then did the second part of the table and had no problem but did not wait to coat. Omni 267 I think its the clear coat with the fast hardener is what I use and it call for 2 coat with int he hour or wait 24 hours. While I know the table top I did is not a car part, it is wood sealed with shellac, painted with a interior house paint sealed with lacquer then hydro dipped, then clear lacquer and then a bit of gold and sliver flake tiny flakes and almost 3 ounces of clear Omni. But yea you will have to take it down to the starting point. Look at the midcoat directions and see what they tell you! Arky_118
X3, or 4 or whatever it is by now. The solvents in the top coat are hotter than what you are shooting over, and it has lifted the base coat. hate to say it, but you are in fairly deep **** here.
Falcongeorge is right.Your in deep poop..ive tryed to bandade this problem at least 3 times my self over the years..sealers ...lite coats never worket.and that flake in there,makes it worse.Heres somthing u might concider doing next time and haz helpt me..seems weird, but guide coat your clear before sanding.
Well, again, thanks for the input. I'm in the process of removing everything down to the primer, we'll see, if I continue to have problems I think I'm going to just set the thing on fire and wipe my hands of the whole mess!! Thanks again all!
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