Projects Bill of sale from out of state????

Hey guys. I'm looking at purchasing a 1930's car from out of state. It only comes with a bill of sale. I live in CA & want to know how hard this vehicle is going to be to register & get a ***le for once it is running. Also if anyone know what paperwork is needed or can explain how the process.
Thanks.

 

I think if the car was registered in the other state (non ***le state) makes it much easier.

 

It's non registered/ non ***led. Bill of sale only.

 

If it is a car that is out of the system, never been registered anywhere for years, it's easy in CA.
Go to the DMV and tell them you have had the car forever. It was stored at your mom's house and she wanted it gone. You trailered it home. Many years ago, you put the paperwork and the plates in an envelope for safekeeping. Somehow, it was lost. You were the last registered owner. They will ask for a few do***ents to be filled out. They may want to know who you bought it from, originally. Pick someone who is dead. They may also want to see the vehicle to do a VIN check or ask that the CHP check the numbers. The last time I did one, it cost 65 bucks and took two trips to the DMV

 

I always use Donna Leek for this type of situation, I highly recommend her to handle this for you:
pro.reg.service@gmail
or (530) 320-5708

Ken

 

If I were to say I had it for years as you stated & the vehicle is non running & doesn't have the vin plate will the PD use the serial # off of the motor. All the research I've done says that the cars from this era always used the motor serial # to register them.

 

There are a lot of different cars out there but Ford started using the frame number in 1932. There were no numbers stamped on the Ford engine beginning in 1932. Exceptions of course where local regulations required an engine number.

Charlie Stephens

 

Don't wait until it is running to get it ***led. Get it running and then work on it. A couple of reasons to get the ***le before spending money on it. First, if something goes wrong you have less money invested. Second fees are based on the value of the vehicle and you want that to be as low as possible.

Charlie Stephens

 

& to add to this topic. How can I protect myself from being ripped off when buying the car from an out of state person without going in person to deliver money & pick up the car?

 

& maybe I should be more specific about the condition of the car. It's missing Windows, has original motor & trans, but prob needs a complete rebuild. I plan on using a different motor. It has no floors or interior. Basically an empty shell or blank canvas as id like to think of it. Ha ha. I plan on turning it into a rat rod/or an unfinished hot rod that I can finish as time & money permits.

 

But I really like the look & patina of this car & want to figure out a way to make this exact car work. This is why I'm asking about ***le questions. I do t want to get it & then not be able to register it in CA. Thank you everyone for your help. I really appreciate it.

 

Is this an O/T car or HAMB friendly? Or to be blunt, spill it, make, model, year...

 

Also, if you're building a rat rod, you will want to go elsewhere for advise. We don't do junk heaps here

 

I'd bet a cup of coffee he didn't mean it as the real gig, just an unfinished look to what he's looking to buy. But you're right, chain shifters and other forms of cartoon rats don't hang with us.

 

I didn't mean it as an actual rat. Like I said. It's gonna be unfinished for a while until the time & money permits it to become a finished rod. Not sure what O/T is???? & it's a 1933 Chevy 4 door.

 

O/T is "off topic" such as billet, rats, muscle cars, etc. 33 Chevy huh? Shop for a parts car with a ***le...?

 

Like the highlander said. An unfinished look to what I want. I can't afford to buy finished. Way out of my price range.

 

Charlie - According to the Ford Garage: Model A,
At the time of vehicle final ***embly, the pre-existing engine number was also usually stamped on the vehicle frame in one or more locations (top of LH frame rail near the Number One body bolt).

The number cannot be inspected without removal of sheet metal and lifting of the body off the frame because the frame number was covered with the splash apron and body. Additionally, it is usually difficult or impossible to read the frame number due to frame corrosion and pitting from the moisture held by the cotton frame webbing. (Additional note: frame serial numbers were typically not stamped on Canadian-built Model A's).

Model B (and presumably Model's 18 & 40): US and Canadian Model B and BB, and British (1932 only) Model AB, ABF, B, and BF serial numbers were stamped on an as-cast pad on the top of the flywheel housing, above the starter . The engine block pad was left unstamped and as-cast.
Model B 'engine' serial numbers started at 5,000,000 and increased sequentially. The ***igned number was stamped on the flywheel housings of completed engines after they had p***ed run-in (run-off) tests and were released for vehicle final ***embly.

The engine (flywheel housing) number then became the serial number for the completed vehicle after final ***embly. The number is separate from the prefix letter(s). The number is unique and is not directly correlated to the prefix letter(s). The prefix is preceded by a ☆, and the number is followed by a ☆.

 

That's an idea, but I've been having a hard time just finding this one.

 

Do an DMV search of what your state requires. Lots of variances.
Don't make the mistake of relying on unofficial info.

 

Try a new thread with the ***le "Need location of VIN on 1933 Chevy". Or maybe you could call your local DMV and ask them where to look, I am sure they have the information for their inspectors to use. Were the 1933 Chevrolets still a wood frame with sheetmetal tacked on or had they gone to all steel bodies by that time?
Charlie Stephens

 

What state is it in now? If it's in Kansas it's pretty easy to get a ***le with just a bill of sale. Maybe the owner would consider going through that process for another hundred or so.

 

The "33 still had a wooden frame. Vin plate was located on p***enger side door jam, which I believe is gone because it was nailed into the wood. I've asked seller to verify this, but he tack welded the doors shut because locks don't work I've seen tack welds in photos so I know he's not just b.s.ing me.

 

That's why I'm curious if any body has experience using the engine serial # as the vin.

 

This is California. If you enjoy stress, keep going down the path you're on. The overpaid state employees at DMV will only be too happy to add to your hypertension and contribute to your subsequent breakdown! I've been dealing with CADMV for half a century. Winning is not an option! Do yourself a favor...........Call Donna. Best money you'll ever spend on that car!!

 

x2

 

About how much does it run for her to handle this?

 

Also having an out of State ***le is better than none...but when you try to put it in your name...youll have to do a vin verification. What vin number is going to be used on the out of State ***le? Opens up a can of worms...
Use the DMV person suggested here...theyve been there.. done that...

 

Stop and think. Your going to be paying for the car, paying for shipping from out of state, no paperwork, possibly be paying for a person to try and register for you. Is it something you really love and want? Your taking a chance that it might not work out after having spent all that money.

 

She did my '54 Ford which had been sitting in a field for 20 years, last registered in '73 and no paperwork except a Bill of Sale. Her fee was $250 + $125 for ***le, registration, some tax and fees. Total $375. Prior to contacting her, I walked into DMV and they were quoting a minimum of $650 plus a zillion hoops I'd have to jump through! Not to mention hours spent standing in line. Donna did the VIN verification, got me a ***le in my name, got the car currently registered for 2016, got a set of new wht/blu plates with 2016 reg tags and was able to keep my original blk/yel plates and got 2016 reg tags for them too! All this with a couple of phone calls and emails. Like I said, best money you'll ever spend!!