where is the better bang for the buck? I am fixing to do a frame and need help deciding .I havent used any product like this before. Any insite would be helpfull
I used Rust Bullet on an old '64 Chrysler (can get it through Summit Racing). I had two quarts and it did the entire floor pan and trunk - 2 coats. It was pretty easy to spray with a crappy Harbor Freight HVLP. If I did it again, I'd probably brush it on because of the time spent masking and the mess it was to clean up. Be sure to wear a mask if you're doing it inside and wear some rubber gloves.
didnt know water made it harder. LOL But I do swear by por 15 I just did a few small parts with a brush it lays down nice and is very durable. I have had some things coated for a few years that still look great!
I love POR for doing a crusty frame under a car, but would choose another product if it was a bare frame on the garage floor. Insight on use- Prep til you can't prep any more, then prep some more. Follow the instructions and you'll have great results. Ignore the instructions and you're worse off than before because it's difficult to remove in the few areas that will stick.
Personally, I prefer Eastwood. having done the "pepsi challenge" with it many times, it's way easier to work with. what type of frame are you doing?
POR-15 is so good it must have been brought to earth by aliens.... The shit is crazy tuff. I ignored the warnings about placing saran wrap between the lid and the paint can. Wasn't so funny when I had to cut the lid off the can the next time I went to use it. Keep in mind paint cans and lids are shiny, smooth metal, and they were stuck together so bad I couldn't beat them apart with a hammer. Whacked.
Sounds like a near solid vote for por-15. Sombody asked what frame . It is a 1961 f-100 unibody from upstate newyork. Very rusty!!! Trying to do a decent fairly inexspensive job. I know that was a joke! Strange how us poor asses are always making the funny. Thanks everybody for you're input
Yes POR 15,but if the frame is rusty now,no amount of paint or magic stuff wll stop the rust. Invest in metal prep ( phosphoric acid) and get it cleaned as much as you can afford ( wire buff ,a little at a time) and read the instructions. WEAR RUBBER GLOVES !DO NOT USE A SPRAYER WITH OUT A RESPIRATOR ! It's not paint but a Urethane, which reacts with moisture to cure,so if you brush it on on a damp humid night it will cure fast and hard . IF YOU BREATH IT IN IT REACTS WITH THE MOISTURE IN YOUR LUNGS .
I have been using some stuff called Chassis Saver, from Magnet paints. Works as well as POR 15 and you can do it without a mask when brushing it on, if you spray it on it turns out like powdercoating. Have used many, rust bullet, POR 15 and others, prefer the Chassis Saver.
I've used the Eastwood and POR-15 products too and prefer the Eastwood stuff for chassis work. Less likely to chip and the final product is a nicer finish. Never had corrosion problems with either over time.
One of my first posts, but maybe I could help alittle. I got a 46 international I tore down to the frame. Tried POR 15 on it. I had wire wheeled the heck out of it, sandblasted the rest. I cleaned it again and again with the marine clean, and then used the metal prep. I paid alot of attention to the prep. First coat I brushed on and it dried to a matte finish. Second coat dried glossy. Second coat though seemed to get stickier as I was painting, and I had some brush strokes. Not bad, it was only a frame but it is mine and I know what I did. It is a rock hard finish, but I am still not quite sold on it. I did clean it down to bare metal, and it said to leave some rust, it sticks better. I just didn't like the idea of 'covering up' rust. It still looks great, durable finish on the frame, but on my car I 'm doing I think I will go the extra step and just spray it.
por 15 is great used it on two chassis two years ago .remember its not uv resistant and lose its gloss when exposed to the sun sticks to fine rust really well and youre hands .use a respirator with this stuff it can really bugger up ya lungs
Most of them are the same product, most manufactured or distributed in NJ. Bill Hirsch is a friend of mine and our shop. Heed the warnings from the above posts and have fun.
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