Technical "Blind" Tie Rod Hole

Building a 35 Ford truck one a Z'd A style frame. My bones are going to attach right at the Z. Bad planning? I don't know how to avoid it and it's done so I've been searching for a way to tie the bones into the frame

My idea was to turn and ream a bung 1" in diameter and drop it into a piece of 1 1/4" .120 wall and weld it in place. Hole saw a 1 1/4" hole through my frame and weld it in. Only real issue I see is not being able to use the cotter pin, access wouldn't be ideal but doable for the nut.

The only way in my mind to describe it is a blind attachment. Can't find anything in search but I don't know what else to call it. Ideas?

Thanks.

 

i don't think a lock nut would work very good it might turn the stud instead of tightening. would you be able to double nut it? i would feel a lot better with a cotter pin.

 

im thinking a u shaped bracket so as to have access ti cotter pin...location is fine as long as you fish plate , add some rosette welds ....

 

Swap the tie rod end out for a bushing.
Then use a thru bolt..

They rarely use cotter pins and castle nuts on tie rods anymore.

You could do the exact same idea with a 3" pipe and then have room for you to get the the cotter pin in- within a 3" pocket. No need for the hole to be centered either.

 

Someone sells the part you need, I've seen it, probably in here.

 

Try RJ's Speed Shop in the Kansas City area. He may have what you need. I've used his thru the frame tie rod weld in bungs before.

 

Instead of a cotter pin, is there any way to use the nut lockers that are a tab that you bend over against a flat on the nut? Don't know what you call them.

 

"Welderseries.com" has what you need I think.
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/through-frame-hairpin-mount-kit/

 

A tapered stud like on a tie rod end is supposed to get it's connecting strength because it's jammed into the tapered hole. Can you place the stud into the hole, give it a rap with a rubber hammer to seat it, then use a nylock nut on the backside? This should prevent turning while you are tightening the nut.

 

I was able to use a cotter pin in a similar mount, filed a line on the of the stud to know where the hole was, put the nut on with the slots aligned with the mark, bent a slight curve in the cotter pin, stuck it in place with forceps, bent one leg up with hook scribe, and bent the other down with a screwdriver.

 

Having been a machinist for many years and also running the toolroom I had many specialized cutting tools available including various tapered reamers. I made my own thru-frame weldments for my roadster, by starting with the corresponding nylon locknut that fits the stud and also finding the smallest dia. thin wall deep socket and boring the sleeve a minimum amount to clear the socket.
Regarding the stud turning while tightening; what I found to work is running the locknut on and off a regular (matching) bolt a few times to relieve some of the tension on the plastic insert. I tried a dull tap but it removes too much of the nylon to maintain tension. A light tap seats the rod end and if the taper matches the sleeve it really shouldn't turn anyway. The castle nut and cotter pin are no longer needed.

 

Alchemy beat me, I had to change the batteries in my camera

 

Awesome. Triple D's setup is what I had in mind. I like the nylon idea and I figured once seated the rod wouldn't spin. Good idea Rich. I figured someone had done this or made something to do it, I needed someone to reaffirm it. Take care men.

 

Here's a pair I've got lying around the shop. As stated above, a slight tap should hold the taper in a right sized hole. Another thing to point out for those that may not have learned elsewhere, look at the bevel on the outer edge where it meets the frame. That allows for good weld penetration so the surface can be ground smooth as shown above.

 

Why not tighten it with the regular nut to seat it, then remove the nut and install the lock nut?

 

come to that, why not leave the nut there and double nut it with the narrow Nylon lock nut?

 

Here is an idea you might like, or not......

 

I like them all. Always learning

 

one more thought.....put a set screw through the frame rail/bung wall from the bottom of the frame to bear against a nut flat.

Ray

 

Use red loc***e on a common nut. If you want a little more insurance, put a dab of silicon on the threads where the end of the nut and extra thread from the stud sticks thru the end of the nut.

SPark