I've liked that engine ever since I first saw it. I've wondered what it would look like with the black wrinkle paint in between the side ribs, with the ribs polished, ...might fit with the sinister look of the car. Try that out, will ya? Of course I suppose that if you don't like it, you can always go to the trouble of stripping it all off. I'll be, uh, busy elsewhere. Frank, that's pretty much it. One can make the case that some of it may not be necessary for mild street engines. People being what they are, though, inevitably the boundaries WILL be pushed....one way, or the other. So far as boost pressures, yeah, since the original intent of the GMC, at least the Seventy-One series, was to do something quite different, the "pressure" or "boost" is relatively low....it's not really intended to be pumping against any sort of pressure; even when converted to automotive use, it is still not really over-stressed from pressure (usually); it's more peak rpm and variations in rpm than anything else. The bearing bosses are notorious for cracking between the bore & the retainer holes. Also, the rear endplate is too thick to fit a lot of distributors in place, depending on the manifold placement. I think I covered all the other mods & the reasons for them. The later flex hub is always discarded in favor of the early solid hub, or a custom piece. The torsion bars are usually replaced by custom shafts as well but I have seen some used for mild street blowers, to save money. Typically, though, even the home-built guys will buy the snout/drive, idler, front cover, etc. as a kit from a shop, because it's easier, even if they use a diesel blower & stock GM endplates. The general consensus is that with using the Gilmer or 8mm belts, you are not transferring the harmonics to the blower, so the coupler & torsion quill aren't missed.
that is a nice looking setup!!! The only thing I don't like about mine is that it is a V series rather than the straight case like yours....I will have to give him a call. Thanks for your response and your opinion......
Hello this is my first post. I previously bought a 75 Camaro with a 355 C.I. and a Penco Supercharger. The car sat for a few years, so I tried pricing in some risk / reward and have just enjoyed tinkering with it. Well, Ive since primed the oil pump and oiled the cylinders and manually turned the crank and now have it running. Im trying to find out whatever I can on this Penco Supercharger and have found this link to be the only relevant return on my many google searches. So, I would appreciate any information on the following: -Penco manuals and servicing steps? -What should my plug gap be set at? (Previous Champion J12YC where set at .026) -Using an HEI distributor, Ive read that timing should be set at 6 to 8 degress, but this car wants to run best when timing is set at 16+ degrees. This is with the idle running at 1000 rpm, the dist. Vacuum removed and plugged. Could I have an issue with my harmonic balances being off? My greatest concern is detonation with full advance at high RPMS. fficeffice" /><O></O> Well here are some application specifics: <O></O> <O></O> Engine: 350 c.i. (4 bolt main) a) Bored .030 over i.e. 355 c.i. b) 2.02 Fuelie Heads c) Comp. Cam 280 Degree Duration and 480 inch lift. d) Black Jack Headers e) Penco (179 stamped on the case) Supercharger - could that be the size / volume? f) Holley Pro-Jection Fuel Injection (900 CFM) <O></O> Thanks for reading and any advice! Bret
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