Technical Blower snout length on a SBC

Hey folks, I've had a 6-71 laying around forever, and i decided that my perfectly reliable truck needed to get even worse MPG.
I'm in the process of converting the blower now, as its an original Detroit pump, but i was curious what length snout or spacer set up people were running in order to clear the accessory drives on the motor.

 

That is a @squirrel question. He usually runs BB chevy but he is Mr Blower. He will know.

 

The blower snout length could depend on whose blower manifold you intend to use. It wouldn't vary too much, but it could be enough to not keep pulley alignment where it should be.

 

I haven't messed with blowers on small blocks, so I don't know.

But I do know that you probably want to get everything else figured out, before you decide on the snout length.

 

The Isky drive is the nicest looking one ever designed for the SBC IMO, but you will need an Edelbrock B10 manifold for it. The friction drive for the water pump works fine and there is only one v-belt pulley, it’s integral to the crank hub.

 

Maybe take your camera and a small tape measure along to a local rod run . Get some pics and measurements and see what looks like it will work best for yours. Thats what I would do...............

 

Buying single pieces at Swap Meets can lead to a lot of loose parts living on your shelf collecting dust. Find a total package deal and make it happen.

 

^^^^^^^^^^This
Great advice, also, you might try and find a couple different examples but get permission first, you want to start off on the right foot with the cars'owner and they should be more than willing to help.

 

This is what mine is on a BDS manifold.

 

This is what it looked like mounted.

 

Depends on what you are putting it in, long or short water pump,, but on an average 4.5 inches.

 

Yep, depends on manifold, how many belts running off your accessory pully on the crank. You could call Dyers blowers , BDS etc, with that information and they can set you up.

 

One of the earliest Isky-Gilmer Belt Drives produced for the SBC... 1960. Bones Balogh...


Hello,

In April, 1960, my brother and I were lucky that our friend in Los Angeles was close friends with Vic Edlebrock and son. When he heard about the newest blower drive to be made for the SBC it was all go from there. Isky-Gilmer had the knowledge and dies, but those early kits were for larger motors. We saw them on the hemi FED race cars. It was the first one to show up for an SBC motor.

We got the Isky-Gilmer Kit for the SBC and our friend also got the Edlebrock Manifold, too. He also got us a Weiand manifold for the top of the 671. The Isky Gilmer model was a show piece. Everything was already measured and fit any SBC motor. All accessories worked and were incorporated into the build.



Jnaki

When we installed it on our newly re-built 292 c.i. SBC blower spec motor, it fit like a glove and gave us instant power. Of course, the blower spec parts were also responsible for contributing to the instant power increase over just using the original 283 motor with 6 Strombergs.

My brother had worked hard on his starting line technique and made some outstanding timed runs in the C/Gas class. (Including the win over the class champion in our last race.) Our best was about .20 seconds off of the national record of 12.40 E.T. So, we were on our way…

If you find an old kit, it is a bolt on unit. But, check with the top blower specialists like Hampton Blowers or Littlefield Superchargers. They are both very knowledgeable. Both of the companies mentioned have long roots to the very early days in So Cal in drag racing and development…YRMV

 

Years ago, there were 2 lengths, the short which went on 392's , sbc, bbc and others with the distributor at the rear. The long version was used on 426's and those with ignition in the front. Bear in mind, that the location on the intake as well as the crank hub affects this. If you are running a short crank hub, you should be able to get by with the short unit. If you have a harmonic balancer and some pulleys, at the least you will need a spacer. Figure out the manifold and pulleys before you get a snout unless you buy a complete drive for it.

 

This snout is for a sbc, I did run it on a bbc with the pulley ran backwards



Same blower on a Weiand sbc intake

 

I am blown away by the amount and quality of the replies, thank you all so much
The manifold is an edelbrock B10 (showed up in the mail today) given how far forward the blower sits on it, ill bet i can keep things short
@Fordors and @jnaki now that ive got the B10, the isky drive is getting very tempting, if i can find the pieces hahaha

 

Its best to Purchase the short one if you do not have one already , easer to add spacers , Short one most commonly used (6:71-10:71 typically sbc) unless your using a set back intake,
You can flip pulley around , If not running a crank support , best to keep belt close to front main @ crank ..
Even when I ran BBC , I personally never ran the Idler off the snout , To much stress , ( other will disagree)
I also would run snout supports on long set ups .
1/2, 8mm 13mm belt teeth , year ago I use to snap 1/2 belts before Kevlar, even on sbc,
I switch to 8mm & 14 mm , V belts are gonging to slip ( 3-4 bets) if your making 8psi plus sbc 500 plus hp,
Even serpentine 6 rib slip ,
In pick not pretty 40ish yrs still can crank out 16psi if I chose ,

 

thanks Jim

I did a small block about 20 years ago, I do recall that the blower we had was already set up and the snout was not long enough even with a short pump. The guy was going to buy an electric pump (inline) but I had a buddy had a snout that we could trade for that was the right length.

 

Since you have the B10 you will need a divorced thermostat housing. You can drill the front of the heads 1” up from the deck and 3” from the intake face and thread for 3/8 NPT, some drill for 1/2 NPT but 3/8” works fine for me with a Weiand manifold.

 

I was considering that, but given this motor is already in and assembled I’ll probably run a remote one

 

starting to look like something! Thank you guys for all the advice

 

"divorced" means "remote".

How will you get water out of the front of the heads?

 

I would take the parts you have and moch them up. That means not only setting the blower on the manifold on the engine, but putting your waterpump on and any pulleys for an alternator etc. in place with belts aligned properly. Then take a side picture of it and use Microsoft Paint to add measurements to the picture. Then you should be able to talk with a blower company and see what works with the set up you have. You may need to use spacers to fine tune, but I would avoid using too many spacers. Also, anyone who has a blower installed might take a moment to document (a picture) and post it . A direct side view if possible and note what length snout you used.

 

Ah this one’s on me, I misunderstood the sort of housing he was talking about. we’re on the same page.
I have also seen somewhere a set of spacers that fit between the water pump and block with pipes coming out the top, might cause issues with the blower drive but could be another way to get water out of the block. Worst case I can make some

 

Water goes into the front of the block at the water pump, travels rear, then goes up into the heads, then forward in the heads, and out the front (usually through the crossover in the intake manifold). Most of the heat is absorbed as it flows forward through the heads. So, you need to get the hot water out of the front of the heads. That's why he suggested you drill the heads to do so, since there is no provision in the blower intake you have to get water out the front.

 

I understand that, I know it wouldn’t leave me with the most effective thermostat, just spitballing ideas here. trying to resist the temptation to straight up not run a thermostat, the carbs are manual choke anyway…
Just tap the heads for a crossover and run the top radiator hose off the the middle out of the way

 

Ok....sounded like you didn't really understand how water flows through the engine.

 

I promise I’m not that hopeless, thank you for your patience hahaha

 

Seems like this exact subject came up a few months ago about snout length for a SBC and a 6/ 71.
You might look through the search function to be safe .
Seems like there were several measurements by some guys here that worked perfectly for the guy needing the information .

And that manifold is difficult to install on the street with the thermostat housing .
It can be done okay,,,,just more plumbing and drilling the heads for flow .

Listen to Squirrel,,,he’s pretty darn sharp !

Tommy

 

Oh I wasnt arguing with squirrel, I know better than that