Last pictures this Project. Magneto (Harman Collins) needs some machinery jobs, holes and threads. Magneto coil is send to "magnetoman" who recoil it. I must make new Blower V-belt pulley. It must be very much deeper than that pulley I have already made. Lower Crank pulley need to make little machinery jobs and make keyway. V-belt idler pulley and bracket need to make ( located another side than alternator). That is last thing but all another jobs need to be ready first. Today I lift engine down. Yesterday i welded floor rack. Headers are old. I just blow them clear and painted VHT black. Fuel pump is made using old parts and little polishing Rgds,AULIS
great.. But please sell out s**** this engine stand to get a right one. I'd hate to see that nice motor break off and roll down on this nice blower..
You´r correct. During weekend I lift off my 1932 Cabriolet engine and same time I weld new sidemounting engine bracket to my another engine stand. I have been scared and also tried to keep wood support front of the engine, but it does not help if one second without support and all comes down. Aulis
Looks really good Aulis! It is at this stage one just wants it to be done so you can start it and hear it run . . . but have patience with it, it will be ready in due time. Can't wait to hear it run - should be a fun engine! Good luck
Hello and Thank You. I take video when engine runs and put here YouTube link. many small things need to make ready before that. Magnetoman called me (old man who restore old MC, Tractor and Car magnetos) and he told me that coil was very bad condition and it was leak all over. My Harman Collings magneto is OK after I have done some small machinery jobs to its mounting brackets. Adjust plate fits to timing cover (I changed another timing cover. I was bolted on wrong one,...). Can somebody advice what points fits to old Harman Collins magneto? I have had those magnetos but never need to buy points, I have only changed new condencer. Now I have situation that points are missing,.... AULIS
Engine is nearly ready. I got it ready 8months ago. Now need to make blower pulley + put together magneto and adjust it. Just last week I got 10,5" pressureplate + clutch disc for this engine. aulis
Hey auliz lots of guys say the bell housing can break when they are bolted up like that from all the front end weight. Iv seen pictures but it's never happened to me. Just thought I would throw that out there. Carry on that motor is rad...
Everybody says that enginesblocks is going to broke, but I have never seen any !!! Do not worry, If it broken, it broken. That is not end of The World. We are also here more worried about Trump, if he is Your next precident! A
Finally, this engine is ready next week. Car, where I install engine, is not ready this year. Last springtime I was lift engine on the floor waiting for pulleys, magneto recoiling,... 2017 January my lathe-milling machine arrived from China. I have made pulleys to crank and blower. Now Im working with Alum. idler pulley. Long belts are XPB industrial belts and short one is XPA type. I also have another blower engine Project. I bought last Autumn from USA machined 59AB block + internal balanced new parts (4.25 crank, h-beams, forged pistons, fluidamper,...) I had on stock own production oilpan, hi-perf cam, old offy heads, M-40 supercharger set, 2 x rebuilt 48 carb, vertex mag + angle drive,.....
Here pics of second blower flathead engine. Aulis 409cid, in my 1932 5w henry, get magneto on. I changed SBC/BBC vertex magneto to fit 409cid. Runs great and sounds more powerful than with original distributor.
Hey Aulis verry verry nice, glad to see you are moving ahead however once you break a 59AB you will never ever again support one by the bell hsg. Especially since it is so easy to make a side mount..........
Admire your build however I have a question, does a Harmon Collins mag. have an auto advance in it? I always they had a fixed advance.
There is no advance mechanism in a HC magneto. While they are the coolest looking magneto you could own, they are not all that great for anything other than racing - as if you really kick up the advance where it needs to be, is awfully hard on the starter. On a blown engine it isn't quite as bad, as you run less advance - so at start, it is easier. But, you won't find a more beautiful mag in the world now will yah!
Good Morning. You´r right need to make side mounting stand for engine. I have front supports, when I put engine parts together. Last time when engine was ready for pictures, I push front support off while took some photos. You´r also right, HC magneto has not advance. I have used those two of my flathead engine earlier. Those are very strong magnetos. Big coil (need to recoil everytime), big magnets in big circle. Flatheads have so little advance, not necessary to have advance system. OK, its good to have, but need to accept that advance is missing. Small chamber, ss valves, good quality fuel, forged rounded head piston, strong spark are good things . Magnetos used in Chevy engines need to have advace. Big advance, maybe domepistons, big chamber, fire need to "run" long way,..... I just make one Vertex mag to fit my 409cid. That Vertex has advance and it works good. That engine I have hi-compression, no hi-perf starter so, if Basic advance for example 15dec. , engine hit back strongly. Carl, I have try to learn new style to built hot rods and that´s why I have not been so "productive" than earlier. Before all winters I make huge job, big numbers of hours in garage, but now I try to learn new style and new philosophy "not need to make new car every winter". It makes stress and every year when spring is turn to Summer (May) I was very tired and that feeling was not going over...... Now I have started slowly to built new 5w coupe. I have made measuring straightedges (need to make new rear quarters, new doorpanels,..), Pullmax is now working good with new Eckold shrinker dies, "kids size" lathe-milling machine is very good..... 8BA in pictures I bought from Norway. I have sold engine, so that engine need to make ready first. New rings, bearings, valvejobs, adjust. lifters, Howard cam, Edelbrock regular intake, rebuilt 48 carbs,...... and I just modify Chevy Scintilla/ronco/vertex magneto for that engine. Ou ****, today need to change timing belt+water pump to my 2003 WV p***at Tdi, which is use my Oscar son with his mother. Not interesting job, but they are charge 300euro that job here and Im not ready to pay that. All operation takes 3-4hours and I want to keep that money in my pocket. Aulis
It depends if it is a street engine or a race engine, or a race engine with an intercooler. On the street, with 6 - 8 lbs of boost and good gas, I'd probably run somewhere between 14 - 18 (just depending on how much static compression you have, how much duration in the cam, etc..). On a full-on blown and intercooled race engine - closer to 24 - 26 or so. On our FlatCad bonneville motor, on both gas and alky, we run about 26 degrees, with an ice-water intercooler, and up to 21 lbs of boost. The intercooler is the trick for high-boost.
Very Very nice shop Aulis, and as has been said before you do great work. I also have an offshore lathe/milling machine. The only thing that bothers me about it is I had a 16x40 Hendy before and now it takes me 4 times as long to make a project with the small lathe,smaller cuts at a time, but that is the joy of sizing down I quess. But since I'm retired time is all I have. Anyway keep up the good work, waiting for the video of her running!!!!
All what You wrote is good info for everybody, thanks. I have used in my one ex.blown flathead 18dec advance. Retard box is good, if have good blower, which makes over 7psi boost. How much boost those new HH Flathead blowers are make ? I think those old original 40´s Italmeccanica makes max. 7psi. My blower is very good shape, but I think 7psi is good. I do not know if its possible? 1940 McCulloch supercharger do not make big boost. Is here anybody who knows how much. I have read that McCulloch M-39 and M-40 has 6:1 ratio. Crank 3000Rpm -> supercharger 18 000Rpm.
I do, it's just cheap insurance against detonation issue which are a bane for flatheads especially. I run a MSD box inside the firewall, retard/advance knob on the dash, MSD distributor. Running H&H 471 at 8 pounds on a 7.5:1 compression .125 bored 8BA. Sounds stupid cool. Good build Auliz! Been watching, love blown flatheads! A guy at the local watering hole last night was giving me grief over the money it takes to build a blown flathead when for less money you could build a hemi or 800+ HP LS...he didn't get it and if you have to explain it to someone, you are wasting your time. You get it, keep building, keep posting.
Thank You Sirs. Carl, Thanks. I promise video when engine is running. I decided that I take 21bolt twing plug engine out from Cabriolet and install blower engine there. Its good "testbench" for that engine. Headers, starter, wiring,...all ready for this engine. My garage is so small, cant buy bigger lathe and separated milling machine. I cant increase anymore machines, need all of those what I have now. My friend (older retired man) have bigger machines. He is grind my cranks, he is fix deck surfaces and he is bore and hone cylincers. I can do smaller jobs. I hate my English. Its going worse all the time. It was better after I was living two winter in Culver City /Pomona, CA. Same with my Swedish. It was good in 80´s because Sweden had best American Car/Hot Rod magazines in Europe (Start & Speed, Colorod, Power Magazine, Wheels Magazine). I bought all those and my School swedish language was going better,.... (Finland we study in Basic School, College ; Finnish, Swedish and English. + extra if student wants to do that). Early 90´s --> 2005 I was racing very much in Sweden (Drag racing). Evenings had time to have BBQ and have small talk with foreign friends, that was good for me. ... OK, that was out of topic, sorry. MSD retard box is good. I have had also with SBC-6:71 blower and in one 396cid with 300hp NOS set. I use fixed magnetos now, because do not have any racing engines. Need to make compromise and use 17-19dec. Depence what kind of cam are using. If cam is very much "flushin" can have little more advance. Do You know what I mean? I do not know right word for this,.... In Italmeccanica engine I have 400 cam, Dyno program shows best torque and Hp using that cam. Mike Hermann has send me all the time stuff (very good man and service is TOP quality). I took home HH Flatheads own specs cam to McCulloch engine. I have never before had 4.25 stroke crank. Piston speed is going higher, but piston weight and pin height are smaller.
Idler is ready. Bearing 3205.2RS (japan they mark 5205.LLU or .DDU). 2row angular contact ball bearing. Arm was ready from Ebay. I had ready wheel, i just cut it pieces and "minimize" it. Need to go buy locking screws. Need to lock wheels to their hubs. Not want to weld. Good Place to drill and thread is from bottom of belt grooves. AULIS
Hey Aulis - looking good! Since I will need to make the blower pulleys for my SCoT as well, we wondering how you held the separate pieces together? It appears that you made a piece that bolts to the input shaft, another for the two main drive belts and another for the generator. Are they all out of aluminum - are you going to weld them all together? Would love to know more! Thanks!
Dale.. from his post it sounds like he made a aluminum carrier hub for the pulling to ride on and he is using Allen set screws to hold them in place. Says right in his post he doesn't want to weld it. Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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