As the ***le states, I blew the water pump on the ole Windsor today. I've never done anything with a water pump so all help that you guys can give on how to actually tackle this little job will help.
It's a pretty simple R&R, but here are a couple of important tips: BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE ANTIFREEZE!!!! It is very attractive to dogs and is 100% fatal, even a few licks. They are drawn to antifreeze like a kid to candy, so be very, very careful. I lost one of my best dogs ever to being just a moment inattentive. It is just as fatal to humans, by the way. Take the old water pump to the parts store when you get your new one and compare them side by side. This is especially important if you do not know the exact year and model of the car your motor came out of. Be sure to use a Permatex-type sealer on all wet bolts, and anti-seize on all the dry bolts. This wll prevent leaks and minimize rusting of the fasteners, making the next pump change much, much easier. Wear gloves when working around the radiator fins. They are sharp little devils and will skin your knuckles in a heartbeat. Bonding with your car is a good thing, but becoming blood brothers is asking a little too much... Good luck!
Pretty much covers it but pay the extra money for a NEW water pump and not a rebuilt one . Cast or Alum. , doesn't matter which one but get a new one ! The job is very easy but just remember which bolts goes where or you will play the try and see if it's the right length game ! Jim
Thanks for all the information as usual and the few laughs that I got from it too. Sorry to hear about your dog, that sounds like a horrible way to go. I was able to get a Duralast cast iron water pump from Autozone but there seems to be a one bolt hole difference, will this make a huge difference or should I just put a bolt in that hole as a cover up. It sounds like a dumb question but it seems like sometimes thats whats been done on this engine.
Tape a piece of cardboard to the radiator to prevent it getting bashed and screwing up the fins. Do this before starting removal
That seems so practical, and yet I wouldn't have thought of that at all. Thanks for the advice. I like that simple things are part of working on cars but then again most the time I don't think of the simple things and then I break stuff.
Both water pumps look pretty similar but I think for safety sake I will take it in tomorrow to make sure it's the right one. Also buy some hoses since I had to cut a few off just to get the pump off.
No. Auto parts don't usually come in "universal fit" styles where you only use the holes you need and disregard the rest. For the most part, it's very important to get the exact right part as they are not only different on the outside, but also on the inside. This is the reason I suggested that you take your old part to the parts store when buying the new part. The old part may provide the counter person with clues to its origin, and will provide a comparison to insure that the new part is exactly like the old part. Suggest that you find an auto parts store with at least one mature, knowledgeable counter person who is willing to go above and beyond the call of duty to find parts for you. A water pump is a pretty easy part to identify and replace, but as you go along with your build it gets harder...and harder still. You will need a parts guy who is willing to go the distance for you. Might as well start looking for him now, while the going is still easy. Yes, replacing any ancillary parts...hoses, clamps, corroded fittings, damaged fasteners, etc...at the same time is very wise and will pay big dividends later. Learning good mechanical habits is a pretty good way to insure your enjoyment of your project as time goes on. Sloppy work habits guarantee that you'll be doing the job over again. Taking the time to find and use only the exact right parts and avoiding the temptation to cut corners during the installation takes more discipline, time and energy it is true, but the benefits are counted in a broader enjoyment of the finished product and pride in a job well done. Priceless.
Again a wealth of knowledge seeping out of your head as advice to me. Thanks missysdad for helping me and extending that advice to me. I do have another question, am I supposed to use silicone on the two upper hoses? I ask this because the old hoses had some sort of glue like substance on them that was a real pain when it came to pulling the hose off.
No. Hoses are ***embled dry, or moistened a little with water to make them slide onto the outlet more easily. No sealer is ever used. You've discovered why.
If you old pump is aluminum do not use the cast iron replacement that is where the difference in holes come into play,I've already been there.
I'm going with the old one being cast iron since the weight is the same as the new cast iron one. I have not attached it because I'm trying to get a new thermostat and housing gasket. Also the bolts that were used to attach the water pump look like intake manifold bolts and I'm trying to figure out if I'm supposed to be using something else. Maybe you guys can enlighten me on this too since the FNG is really showing itself today.
If the one you took off has too many holes, it's a good bet that the aluminum one which Jeff refers to is the correct one. It may have been changed before by someone not concerned with this difference...which may have lead to the failure you just experienced. If the bolts seem mismatched to the application, that's also not a sign which would indicate that the engine was maintained by a careful mechanic. Your FNG could really get stressed here! It's hard enough to repair an older engine which has been properly cared for. It's real b**** for a newbie if it's been "southern engineered" somewhere along the way. But not to worry. Guys like Jeff can be a great help when you start getting in over your head. I'm a little out of my element when it comes to the specifics of Ford engines, as I'm a Chevy motor guy myself. But if you keep asking questions...even if they seem overly simplistic...you'll eventually get the info you need from one of the guys in this social group. Photos help, too, so post photos of your problem areas whenever possible. If you haven't mastered this skill yet, do a search on our social group. Instructions have been posted many times. If you can't find 'em, PM Skoh73. He's the photo posting guru here, and the resident photoshop go-to guy as well! Good luck!
I stopped the work once I got all the pieces, since its Independence Day and I wanted to do some celebrating. I'll take some pictures and try to get them on here before I begin to tackle things again. I used some clay to make a mold of the engine code by pressing it up against it and found out the engine is a 1984 351 Windsor. The thermostat outlet housing is from a 1969, 351W that came from a Mustang. I think that you are right on the last guy not giving a **** about what he was doing. I did buy a new housing that identical because the angle seemed better than 90 degrees down. I'm sure the fan blades are not the correct ones either because they are quite large and that is why the angle matters for the hose. If the hose is at a downward angle then the fan will cut the hose as it goes across. Also there is a lot of rust water coming out of the block and radiator. I have the Prestone flush and new Prestone coolant too, but I'm worried that there may have been some permanent damage. The last thing I want to do is turn a repair on the water pump into a full rebuild since I'm stubborn and would just do it while I learn, and that means more money as I break things. I know there are some things that I would have to deal with someone else doing but I still want to do most of it myself. Like I said I'm stubborn that way. You know I didn't buy a cl***ic to have some Joe Shome work on it and make it their baby.
Good for you! I never liked Joe Shome anyhow. Don't worry too much about the rusty water, but do plan ahead when you purchase your parts. A large OEM fan is a good thing to have. Nothing is more miserable than a hot rod that overheats and an efficient fan is a very good investment to prevent overheating. In my opinion, if you have a water pump option which allows you to use a larger than normal fan, use it...being aware of clearances, of course. As I mentioned before, others on this group are more knowledgeable on Ford engines than I am, and can probably make some specific recommendations now that we know what motor you've got. Yes, the flush is a very good idea. I'd do it twice, since you feel you've got more than an average amount of rust in the cooling system. Sounds like you're making good progress. Keep up the good work!
Now that I've taken the water pump and thermostat housing off, I feel like just tearing into the rest of the engine and replacing the pistons, rings, lifters, valves, and having the thing ported and polished. Also I want to change out the timing chain to timing gears. I'm sure that being the being cheap will help me with the decision to just complete the work that I've already started, so that I don't have to spend money on anything else at the moment. Then again if I don't spend the money now then I will have to spend it later when she breaks down again. I'm sure that will just cause me to tear water pump off again. What a dilemma spend money or don't, repair it now or let it break.
I know you didn't ask for advice...so here it is: If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Check the timing chain for slop (there's a technique for this...see your Windsor manual!) and if it's okay, ****on 'er back up. In general: If it don't smoke or rattle, give it a tune up and hit the road. Drive it until it breaks, fix it, then drive it some more until it quits breaking. You simply can't economically anticipate everything that can...and will...go wrong with an old car. So the above unsolicited advice will go a long way towards keeping you sane...and solvent...as you enjoy your ride to the fullest! Good luck!
In my opinion, the car is on the road so dont mess with it. You can always buy a used 351w, and start to build that one to your hearts content. Then its just a matter of a few hours swapping it in and getting it wired and plumbed, instead of months waiting to drive your car again. Just my opinion, nothing more, nothing less.
I see both of your points on this situation. Regardless, I will not be working on the car for the next week at a minimum since I start teaching my next cl*** on Wednesday and that will consume most of my time. Also just because I don't out right ask for advice doesn't mean ****, because I am always needing advice when it comes to my Ford. I'm too new at this to think that I have even one right answer. I think that sometimes I do have that right answer but I always get on here to check and make sure. You know making one mistake will cost me more money and set me back on the goals that I have put in place for the car. So in the end, thank you for the advice even if I didn't ask.
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