Hot Rods Body adjustment question.

Hello all. Mick here. Regarding the trunk lid on my 40 coupe. I have been tweaking the rear quarters and tail pan on this coupe for some time.
It is near to the acceptable level. However, now I find the trunk lid to be
slightly higher than the body shell at the the center directly below the rear
split windshield, just to give a reference of location. The arc of the trunk lid
is very gradual from side to side as those of you familiar with this body will
understand. I am contemplating mounting a turnbuckle to the floor of the
body directly under the center and pulling it down the 1/8" or so it would take to achieve a better profile in this area. This would give me a finite control over the movement of the lid. I think to make a slice in the bracing of this area, which is quite robust in profile. After the pull was made from both sides
of the slice about an inch or two apart I could then weld the kerf of the slice to maintain the corrected arc of the lid. I considered doing this with out the
slice. I feel I would be trying to defeat the purpose of the bracing construction and would have no way to ensure the arc stays where it is correct. I am trying to ensure that I don't kink the trunk lid. I also considered
lowering the hinges, but the corners of the lid fit well as is so I don't want to
try this method. A friend suggested just adjusting the offending area during
final body work. I do prefer to make a proper adjustment in the metal.
Sorry to ramble on so long, but I would appreciate any thoughts or ideas and suggestions you fellows may have. Thanks MickeyC

 

I don't have an answer, but I do know that if you cut a slit, bend it to fit, then weld it the weld will shrink it up. So maybe leave the slit a little wider than needed and it will magically shrink to the right spot.

 

pictures?
sounds like you would be better off raising the center of the body panel. someone may have stood on it, or piled stuff on it and it dipped down. cutting a slit in the brace will probably direct the bend in the outer sheet metal there. it won't flex evenly.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I did consider jacking the body section up a bit. After close scrutiny I really don,t
think the issue lies in the body structure. Both pieces have a nice even gentle arc. They are just a slightly different radi. I am not a body man by any means. I
have had a few "body guys" give an opinion, but nothing definitive as a solution. Mostly they say make
it up with body filler. I had planned to mitigate the shrinkage issue that was pointed out by placing a few solid spacers in the kerf of the slit at intervals to minimize the gap drawing together during the weld up process. I don't know maybe I overthink thing things to a fault. I know this is not an exact science, but I am just
trying to have a solid plan moving forward.

 

Given a choice between modifying a body structure or modifying a bolt on piece, I'll modify the bolt on piece every time, unless I can clearly see the structure is not correct.
Its not very hard to gain another 1/8" bow in the width of a trunk lid. Place a 2 x4 under the center, and push the outside edges down carefully. A very slow, light push is all that is needed, be careful not to kink the inner panel, check the progress often. Gene

 

The way I understand his question is that the center is already too high, wouldn't what you are suggesting make it even higher?

 

Yes It needs to go down an 1/8 or maybe 3/ 16. The plan I contemplated is just what Gene said, except in the opposite direction. I intend to pull with a 1/2 inch
turn buckle from two spots about 6 to 8 inches apart.
I will try it gradually with out slicing the under bracing.
Pull a bit and release. Then observe if it gained any and
pull again a bit further constantly checking by releasing
and observing. The under side bracing is robust and may well resist these efforts as it was designed to do.
Then I will consider a narrow slice to relax the brace and allow movement. hope full it wont spring the wrong way! Thanks guys.

 

how are the gaps at the sides? the lid will get wider as you take the bow out. if the gaps on the sides are wider at the top than the bottom straightening the bow will work.
as far as the debate of "permanent" versus "replaceable" part: if the body is the part that is bent, getting it fixed is the solution, fixing one part to compensate for another will lead to just chasing your tail. moving the deck lid which has to fit on multiple edges and multiple plains can be tricky.
pictures?

 

I may try a little of both. Place a hydraulic jack under the cab portion of the body and spread the contact point with a wood block, then jack it gently in small increments. release the jack and see if it stays. Also may pull down on the lid during the process. This way each side would need less movement to acheive the fit I seek. As stated by TB33. each time I move the deck lid
it causes varies fitment issue at several locations around the trunk surround. I do have pics, but have never figured out how to post them. I have tried for several years actually. Just never can make it happen. My young computer expert has discovered boys and has no time to ***ist! LOL.

 

The deck lid gasket will change the fitment, so install it before you call it good and prep for paint, also the early fords didn't fit well from the factory. Door gaps uneven, hoods and body lines off, deck lid gaps tight at the bottom by the latch and the top ether high or low. As someone said put wood blocks under the corners and push down on the center with it off the car and tap on the inner reinforcement to release the stress. If low put a ratchet strap around the top of the deck lid and tighten it and release the stress with light taping on the inner reinforcement till it stays where you want it. This can also work on the hood if it is not fitting at the cowl . BTW don't beat hell out of the reinforcements just small taps with a hammer, pressure and then release stress and repeat.

 

Two couped up. Thank you for the suggestions.
Sounds like a solid and viable solution. I will give
it a try.

 

Was remembering the hair dryer/hot air and dry-ice shrink, when we had hailstorm damage. Every flat surface reqd. shrunk back.

 

I worked on industrial heat exchange units where we used dry ice to shrink 3'' diameter studs to enable the
nuts to be removed. I don't think that method would be viable for me. A bit to much science. I would probably create some abstract shape unseen by modern man!