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Technical BODY, Build your own belly pan

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by UKAde, Aug 2, 2006.

  1. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    TecH Post build your own belly pan


    After looking at a side view of my little Austin I thought it was missing something the bottom of the body seemed to end too high and it was too straight

    With a lot of clutter underneath

    So I decided to build a belly pan to make it neater
     

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  2. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    I am lucky that I have a few usefull tools in my workshop the only realy specialist one is a bead roller I used to add a bead and make the joggles so the joints were flush but this is not essential

    I also wanted the belly pan to be easy to remove so to do this I wanted to fasten the whole thing on using rivnuts and bolts

    A rivnut is a threaded rivet it is placed through the sheet metal and the rivet part is drawn up with the thread either using a bolt and large washer or a special tool which is like a normal rivet tool except it has a thread on the end

    i chose to use 10/32 unf as they were small and available from aircraft spruce ready drilled for lock wire i used about 75 bolts and rivnuts

    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/rivnuts.php
     

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  3. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    To start the belly pan it self I measured from the end of the body to the lowest part of the chassis
    I then added one inch for the belly pan to mount onto the body then made a few trial section up to get the lengths right so the top part sat on the car body and the lower bit was just below the chassis

    To make the radius on the bottom I clamped a length of three inch diameter tube to the bench with the 18g half hard aluminium sheet underneath and bent it around the tube by hand
     

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  4. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    the next thing to do after working out a section that fitted to the body and below the chassis was to add ½ inch to each end on the underneath end this ½ inch was for the joggle so the bottom of the belly pan joined flush and on the top side I wanted to roll a bead to make the pan look finished

    I also had to split the pan up into sections as my bit of tube used for bending was only 36” long this had another advantage as it made bending a lot easier
     

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  5. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    I started at the front of the car made the first section don’t forget these are handed ( I did) I decided to mount the bolts in groups of three so they could be lockwired together

    I marked out the holes in the pan then drilled 1/8th pilot holes held the pan section in place then drilled through a hole at each end into the car body and held it in place with cleekos ( removable body pins) while the other holes were drilled into the body
    Each hole in the body was opened up to the correct size for the rivnut and the hole in the pan was opened up to the correct clearance size for a 10/32 bolt ( a little bigger in someplaces)
     

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  6. FencePost
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 351

    FencePost
    Member

  7. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    After all the sides were made and mounted it was time to make the bottom this again was made in sections splitting at the same points as the sides

    I used some large pieces of stiff art car and using a screwdriver
    marked around the edge of the joggle the card was then cut on the line and offered up to see how it would fit after a bit of trimming the shape was transferred to metal
    more marking out 1/8th holes and cleekos as on the sides of the pan

    I also decided to add beads at the front and down the middle to add stiffness and hopefully stop the panel drumming
     

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  8. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    As we say in the UK MR Cockup was in town I forgot when the handbrake was used the bellcrank gets lower and fouled on the bottom panel so had to make a hammer form up to make a bulge in the bottom
     

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  9. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 32,350

    The37Kid
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That looks great! I've always thought those UK specials were special bread of Hot Rod. Would you know of a source for the "Helmet" style cycle fenders (wings) seen on early 1930's Astons & Lagondas?
     
  10. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    I now decided it would be easier if the lower panel was riveted together as one so this was done and the whole pan was removed from the car

    to finish off installing the rivnuts and a bit of final finishing
     

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  11. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    here then is the final few pics two die pics to compare with the first pic in this post and a couple of detail shots

    hope you have enjoyed my little tech post any questions class come on hands up ,,,, you in the back row
     

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  12. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,836

    Paul
    Editor

    that is damn cool
     
  13. Mike
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 3,539

    Mike
    Member

    Nice work.
     
  14. WINNER!!! well that my vote at least, thanks way cool tech.
     
  15. coupster
    Joined: May 9, 2006
    Posts: 860

    coupster
    Member
    from Oscoda Mi

    First off I think you did a great job on your belly panel, really improves the look of your car. Second as a long time A&PIA I hope you used the keyed style of rivnut. Back when i started my airline life the co I worked for flew SA-227 metroliners. Sweringen loved to use rivnuts, We hated them because when it came time to remove an inspection panel, if the screw had seized to the rivnut due to dissimilar metal corrosion the rivenut turned in the parent metal before it let go of the screws threads. When this occured you had to try and drill out the screw, problem was the screw usually turned when you tried to drill it. i notice you are using -3 bolts making any drilling even harder. If I were you I would make sure and use anti-seize the next time you have it removed. Just my experince YMMV.
     
  16. wlspdshop
    Joined: Jun 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,585

    wlspdshop
    Member
    from Missouri

    Thanks that is some good info!!!
     
  17. rustyparts
    Joined: Jan 3, 2005
    Posts: 702

    rustyparts
    Member
    from Clinton,Mt

  18. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    the belly pan has been finished for a while now and a few mods have been made

    a hole under the rear axle to let out any oil and somewhere to jack the car up and change wheels

    i dont use all the bolts to attach the bottom now spaced every 6 inchs apart rather than every 3 a lot less to undo to drop the bottom off

    the rivnets are unkeyed but havnt had any come loose as i have been using anti seize thanks coupster

    the car seems a lot less rattly and quieter i think the large piece of aluminium on the bottom and all the fastners have improved the stiffness of the car a bit

    it is a bit battered on the bottom now after a few trial off road but it has saved the chassis a number of times as rocks that get caught underneath tend to slide through rather than stopping on the crossmembers

    downside when driving in deep ruts especialy downhill it turns into one giant sledge lots of fun with no control
     
  19. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    this was my first time building anything this big the last thing i made was the alumium cockpit cover
     
  20. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,014

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    Great tech, Ade. Very cool.

    One question, though....
    What on earth are you wearing in that first photo? :eek: ;)
     
  21. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    thanks very much ,,, but i think you'll find thats my wife in the first pic
     
  22. Tore
    Joined: Mar 10, 2001
    Posts: 307

    Tore
    Member

  23. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,014

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    Oops :D :D :D In my defence, it's a very small photo :rolleyes:

    (Artiki walks away with his tail firmly between his legs...)
     
  24. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    thats cool she thought you were very funny
     
  25. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Yes, normally he is...
     
  26. daft1024
    Joined: Aug 6, 2006
    Posts: 1

    daft1024
    Member

    Great Job Ade!

    I love the A7's! Probably cause my father has an A7 Special as well... Here is an old photo of his... We made our sidescreens at the local TAFE college at a nightschool. I see you've gone for a brooklands exhaust as well! Nice!

    [​IMG]

    It's been off the road with a busted clutch for a while, and in the meantime have we finished a few other projects (36 Hillman Minx and 96A Whippet Roadster).

    Got a question for you though... We are looking for a new alloy head for the A7? You know if anyone in the UK are remanufacturing these?

    Cheers

    Stu
    Brisbane, Australia
     
  27. cadzilla
    Joined: May 27, 2005
    Posts: 288

    cadzilla
    Member

    brilliant tech

    good to see some british know how going to good use i am going to use this on my 34 i going to build in future. thanks again tim
     
  28. UKAde
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 502

    UKAde
    Member
    from Oxford UK

    [Got a question for you though... We are looking for a new alloy head for the A7? You know if anyone in the UK are remanufacturing these?

    Cheers

    Stu that is a very pretty car,,, what is it's history i'm not sure if anyone is redoing heads at the moment but i'll look into it
     
  29. Digger_Dave
    Joined: Apr 10, 2001
    Posts: 2,516

    Digger_Dave
    Member Emeritus

    UK, a tip of the "Ole Top Hat!"
    Inovative, nice attention to detail and looks good too!"

    BTW - The sensors you sent are doing the job. Matter of fact they are being used this week! (North of 49 @ Bonneville)
    Thanks again.
    Dave
     

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