Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Body Rotisserie

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by steamer, Jul 13, 2010.

  1. steamer
    Joined: Aug 17, 2008
    Posts: 199

    steamer
    Member

    Where would I look to buy or rent one of these things?:confused:
     
  2. fuzzface
    Joined: Dec 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,822

    fuzzface
    Member

    Mine is a Whirlyjig from Tn. They delivered it free to a local car show that they were displaying at. They have a website just add .com to the name.
     
  3. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 22,739

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    find a place that sells them, look at the pics then go build your own.
     
  4. Brad54
    Joined: Apr 15, 2004
    Posts: 6,021

    Brad54
    Member
    from Atl Ga

    I got one from Summit and am very happy with it. It's got lots of good features.

    Musclecar Review magazine did a story on buying rotisseries a few months back--might be on their website, I dunno.

    -Brad
     
  5. hrm2k
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 5,361

    hrm2k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    we built our own........about $150 in materials....
     
  6. vintagedrags
    Joined: Aug 24, 2008
    Posts: 314

    vintagedrags
    Member

    Bought mine from Eastwood. Its called the auto twirler, and I love it. It sounds good to build your own, but the time and material dont add up to just ordering one. Spend the money on a good one, you wil be glad you did.
     
  7. 58ducknut
    Joined: Feb 18, 2010
    Posts: 129

    58ducknut
    Member
    from ohio

    I got mine from Auto Twirler, the same one Eastwood sells. It works great! Very easy to get the car balanced on it.
     
  8. hot rust
    Joined: Sep 18, 2007
    Posts: 785

    hot rust
    Member

    3rd that, i use an auto twirler in my shop, no complaints
     
  9. I have an Auto Twirler too...

    Murph:cool:
     
  10. hrm2k
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 5,361

    hrm2k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Do it the hot rodder way and build it yourself. You will be much happier. While buying it from a vendor (they might even have some cool billet stuff as well.......maybe even some red paint for your wheels)might work for some, do it yourself is the real hot rodder way. This link has all the material lists as well as a full set of plans for a decent unit

    http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com/1941buick/Editorial_20.htm
     
  11. J'st Wandering
    Joined: Jan 28, 2004
    Posts: 1,772

    J'st Wandering
    Member

    I did the same. Found a pattern in the internet. Isn't as nice as the one hrm2k shows but it works. Doesn't take much. The steel, a chop saw, a welder. A friend and me made two one afternoon.

    Neal
     
  12. inliner54
    Joined: Feb 9, 2007
    Posts: 426

    inliner54
    Member

    I built my own. If your time costs more money to build one than i would just buy one. Sometimes its better to just pay $1000 dollars for the thing already built than to screw around making one.
     
  13. Brad54
    Joined: Apr 15, 2004
    Posts: 6,021

    Brad54
    Member
    from Atl Ga

    Keep in mind that a rotisserie has to be double-adjustable. You have to be able to raise and lower the body mounts so the pivot head of the rotisserie is at the weighted center of the body that's on it. If you don't do that, the body won't be balanced as your rotate it, and it will be top- or bottom-heavy. If that happens, it will be difficult for one person to rotate the body by themselves at best, and at worst the body can over-center and roll on it's own and hurt the operator if they're in the wrong place, or hurt the body if there is something in the way.

    Secondly, the whole pivoting head must be able to raise and lower relative to the ground. You need clearance for the car's roof--without that adjustment, you might only get the car 2/3- rotated before the roof hits the ground. The one shown in the Harwood link is single-adjustable (frame built on an engine stand model). With that one, the owner can either balance the center point of the car body so it rotates easily, or he can raise it to clear the roof when it goes over. I suspect that with anything like a tall body, that one is going to be very top-heavy.

    These things might not be a big deal for a little roadster or pre-war car, but it'll make life shitty if you try to put a '54 Buick body on it.

    I know it's not "trad" and all that "I hate mail-order" bullshit, but I can spin the body of my '73 Duster with one person, with about as much effort as it takes to open a tool box drawer. It's safe for me, safe for the car, and most importantly safe for my 15 year old son who helps me a lot.

    Also, I've noticed that when guys build things at home, a lot of times they under-build it, using thinner wall (cheaper) box material. Look at the wall thickness of commercially-available rotisseries. They aren't putting beefy material in it because they LIKE upping the manufacturing cost of their product. They're doing it because over the years, they've figured it out through trial and error, and guys calling and bitching about the thing not staying square, being flimsy, etc.

    Which brings me to my last point: If you build your own, build it like a tank, because suspending a body in the air will tweak it if the rotisserie isn't built like a brick shithouse.

    -Brad
     
  14. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 22,739

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    mine cost me less than $60.00. the only reason I needed to spend any money is I needed two sizes of tubing that slid into each other for the pivot.

    I spent almost no money and I'm sure mine works as well as any on the market.

    of course you have to be a metal scrounge to do it for free or cheap.
     
  15. 69fury
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,696

    69fury
    Member

    for out door work, make two 8 or 9 foot diameter circles of whatever strong stuff you find, weld in some adustable bars to hold the car and roll it out into the yard...

    aint gotta be fancy, just gotta be on it's side...
     
  16. hrm2k
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 5,361

    hrm2k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Brad, here are a couple of pics of the one we built. You have some very valid points that can be approached from a couple of different angles. We chose to make our height fixed as this would be the only car that we were going to use this for. Secondly, we found our body mounts could make up the difference in heights as well. We did have to add a metal stalk to each end of the car. We added weights at the top of each stalk to offset the other weight we were adding. When we were finished, we stuck the pieces of metal back into inventory.

    by the way, this fleetline hung on this for almost 2 years. When we took the car down and bolted the door back ( with location pins), our doors worked perfectly.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 16, 2010
  17. FRITZ
    Joined: Sep 6, 2001
    Posts: 1,209

    FRITZ
    BANNED

    I bought a Whirlyjig also, Real nice unit, I use it all the time so it was worth the money for me. building a home made rig for limited use might be your ticket!
    FRITZ
     
  18. T Achilli
    Joined: Aug 25, 2009
    Posts: 239

    T Achilli
    Member
    from walworth

    also have whirly gig, used it for 68 nova tub and worked like a dream.
     
  19. FrozenMerc
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 3,330

    FrozenMerc
    Member

    Built mine my self, I still have the plans in pdf form if your are interested. I have about $500 in materials, jacks, paint and casters into it. It is big enough to handle my '62 Monterey Safely.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Salty
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,258

    Salty
    Member
    from Florida

    Mind you this is super crude but worked for me (Read this is my first frame off and I wont likley do another for a number of years)

    I sectioned my truck so the interior brace was left in and I built a frame work around the cab (as shown).

    I also added a brace on the side (so I could roll it on its side without hitting sheet metal) and a brace on the back cab so I could roll it on it's back without caving the rear curve of the cab. Unfortunatly I dont have any pics of that.

    Bottom line, free for the stack of electrical conduit that my buddy scored when his company moved buildings and they had to clean/throw everything left out and about $20 for the casters. Gotta bout an hour and a half invested in it.

    I could flip it around by myself though it was a bit bulky and did the job, triangulation was my friend.

    When I was done with it I cut it down and turned it into a cab dolly so I could move it around the garage (made a similar dolly for the bed as well)

    It may not be the prettiest in the group, and truck cabs are much lighter than your car body....Just a el-cheapo Idea for those like me who really cant even justify the cost for materials to build one....did it's job too, when I was done it got cut up and recycled saving space.
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.