Featured Technical Boiling over,,,,,,, trouble shooting

I have ordered a 50-50 split, 6 bladed fan from Vintage Air. 1" offest towards the radiator, and 1" offset towards the motor.

 

By my estimation, that should gain you about half an inch more space.

 

Just went through this entire thread. I feel for the OP. I know nothing of SBC and am amazed at what I’ve read/learned. Hoping it gets sorted out quickly.

 

That is a tight fit, like my Thames. I had a 32 Ford rad, elec pusher on front, with small alum fan on water pump, with conventional water pump location. Good luck on the tips, Fan with Shroud is important, make sure heater hoses are not acting as a byp***...had that before, that coolant is large % not cooling thru Rad.

 

'I now have the correct spacing fan on order. (groan) have to paint, tip, pin-stripe, clear the new fan before instalation."

I don't know why would you do all that before you know if the fan is going to work for you. Install the fan and see if it is going to work for you. Once you know, then make it pretty.

 

"Form follows function".

 

Yes you are correct. I have shudda said, "after I dry fit" then make the fan all pretty.

 

Detail Person.... quality on each detail. I'm kinda work on mechanicals, and rarely get to the nice details.

 

In my looooooooong amateur rodding experience, over heating problems are 99.999999% air flow problems. Water wetter, hi-flow pumps, modified thermostats, etc., etc., etc., are rarely if ever necessary. Water side is very forgiving. The fan in its original deployment is moving less than half its potential air flow. Turning it around I am pretty confident will fix your problem and if not, figure out a way to fenagle a shroud in there. Air flow rules!!!!!

 

Admittedly I haven't read everything but from the few pictures that I've seen there are a couple of things that really jump out at me and may have been mentioned before.

That first picture I saw with the fan without a shroud and open on all sides apparently since I don't see a picture from a slight distance to see what is around the radiator, I would be pretty sure that you've got a recirculation problem not to mention the lack of air flow outside the radius of the fan. In those areas some air may be actually stagnant or flowing backwards through the radiator... A shroud can always be fabricated. Please point out if I have missed something here.

 

There is a '32 Ford grille shell, and OEM grille. There is a hood that barely fits, top part is afterfmarket, sides are OEM.

In either Billy Mitchell's or Zora Duntoff's book. I read a story that when they were designing the V-8 motor for the new Corvette they both designed and built, one of the requirements was, it HAD to fit in a '32 Ford with the hood closed!

I don't think I could possibley get anything else to fit down in there. To take anything off I have to remove three things just to get to that part. Harleys are like that also. "Rule Of Three" is what they call it. To remove the fan, headlight wireing harness, grille shell, and radiator must be removed first. Plus drain the a-freeze. I'm wondering if the belts could be removed by themselves. It's tight fit between the bottom pully and the front x-member. Each belt has to be wiggled back and forth to get it to p*** through that "narrie" (WV talk for narrow) gap.
ALL this work/flustration, just to change the T-Stat, the water pump, (to hi-flow) make a Ford 5 7/8" OD pully (speed the pump up a couple hundred rpm's) fit the Chevy 6 pump, and turn the fan around. (Gotta change the pretty fan because turned around where it "draws air," it's into the radiator for lack of room). Before I can see if those "cures" the overheating.