Bolt in head problem

I bought a new crate motor for the 54 pick-up I am building and when installing one (1) bolt in the drivers side header (very front bolt) it went in just fine as all the others did, until it got almost all the way. Then it got tight. I did not like the feel of it so went to back it out and check things. It turned about 1/4 turn and locked up. It is an AAP fastener 3/8-16.
I am scared that it is going to break if I put more pressure and then I will have a problem.
CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO GET THIS BOLT OUT??????

 

Chances are its too long and bottomed out which fouled the threads, reversal has bound the fouled threads in the good threads.

Brute force will surely fuck up something.
I'd try rotating the bolt into and out of the sticky spot several times ( dozen maybe 100) in an attempt to restore the fouled threads on the bolt. Use a 1/4 drive stubby ratchet so you don't come close to breaking it.

Eventually something will give or you'll surpass the time and effort required to Drill it out and then you'll say fuck it.

 

I was going to suggest the same thing as 31Vicky with a hemi did. If theh engine is still on the stand I'd think about tilting it so the bolt is up and getting some penetrant or other lube to work it's way down the threads in the hole. It won't break things loose but might help the bad spot slide past the threads easier once you do get that rough spot worked down.

 

Thank's guys, I had put some WD40 in it tonight before going home. I have been working it the quarter turn back and forth quite abit with no sucess. Will try tomorrow some more. The motor is in the frame and not on a stand, so can't turn it so lube will run into it. Stud is the same as all the others so I am sure it was not to long. My thoughts are they got a bunch of paint ran into the bolt hole. From now on when doing a crate motor I will run all threds with a tap before installing bolts.
Lesson learned.....

 

If its paint, it wouldn't be jammed up. It be sticky or a little bit rougher but you'd probably not notice it. Maybe they didnt run a bottom tap into it? But I doubt its paint. Even small machine chips and burs will roll over out of the way.

As far as you being certain it wasn't too long based on the length of the others - well you'd first need to be certain that the hole was the same depth and tapped to the bottom. Maybe I should have said that this hole may have been shallow compared to the others.

If you can heat the stud red hot and quench it repeating this process several times it will shrink it. That might get you just enough to run it out.

Two ways to approach this - slow and easy in an attempt to salvage what you have. Or - force it out and then drill it if it breaks and retap it or add a keen- sert. With the first method you have no idea how long it will take or even if it will work. The second you'll be finished in about an hour if you have the stuff and access to the problem.

Your lesson is a good one. When I have new stuff I make sure the intended bolt goes in smoothly by hand, its just something that takes a couple seconds but can save you hours later if a problem shows up

 

PB Blaster.

 

Is it a grade 8 bolt? If so, it won't be much fun to drill out.
Maybe run the engine through a couple heat cycles?

 

Is this an aluminum or iron cyl head? Either way, I would keep backing it out until it comes all the way out most likely taking some threads with it.

Buy a 3/8 Heli-coil kit and make some nice new threads and all will be well.

Good luck, -Abone.

 

If it is a grade 8 bolt he may be able to horse it outta there.

 

Tap the head of the bolt as you work it back and forth

 

Dang the luck hope that was not a stainless bolt without anti seize.

 

agree with rick,s garage......been there done it !!!

 

I'd loosen all the other header bolts to make sure the flange isn't binding.

 

TFeverFred X2. I'd use PB Blaster rather then WD40.

 

Agreed. PB Blaster or Kroil or some other type of penetrant will yield better results than WD-40. They also tend to "creep" into the hole and around the bolt better so orientation of the block is not so important. Good luck!

 

Pull the header off first. Then soak with PB, Kroil, or Seafoam creeping oil. Wait 24 hours, then run some heat around the head bolt block area, not the bolt. Then start turning back and forth till it starts to ease out. Having the header off will give you more room for various tools.

 

make sure you use a special clean out tap, if you want a good thread.

 

Heat it

 

I spoke to Dennis earlier and I believe he mentioned they were ARP 12pt stainless.

 

If the bolt would come out, he COULD get the header off.

 

Try heat, and tapping on the head of bolt with a hammer, also lots of PB and moving bolt back and out. I run into this a lot at work on big cat engines. Sometimes you can get the bolt out. But seems like most of the time drilling and extracting is the order of the day!

 

arp rolled thread into a die cut thread always caused problems , for these I used to take a long punch and set it on the head after turning it out as far as it goes and giving it a hard wack , and see if it turns out more . if your lucky it will unlock the threads , otherwise get the cobalt drill and drill it out and retap the hole

 

Not going to be fun or easy.
I'd wack the head off, remove the header and make a nice drill guide. Go get a nice left handed cobalt drill ( they weigh almost 3x more than a regular HSS bit) and have at it.
Hopefully there was anti seize applied to the stainless bolts or you may be in for a real treat with the other bolts.
Consider using non stainless bolts so you can use a thread locker instead of anti seize on your header bolts.

 

Stainless header hardware sucks ! I personally hate it , have fun with it, I feel for u

 

Thank's everyone for all the ideas. I still have it soaking with PB blaster & seafoam. Thought I would just walk away from it and let it soak for a couple days before trying to get it out. It is in a iron head and would you know it it is the only stainless bolt I used as I was short one bolt. My luck.....

 

I with 31vicky on cut the head off the bolt remove header.Then I would try welding a nut on the remaining part of the bolt let it cool, use the box end of the wrench apply pressure and hit nut with hammer until nut starts to rock in either direction. Once it's move spray with pb and go slow! If you decide to drill be careful nut to break the drill bit. Good luck!

 

My bad!

 

Fancy lubes can sure help, but Depending on the flavor of stainless, stainless-on-stainless can be almost guaranteed to gall. Even at a mere 3000 psi contact pressure.

Tables XI and XII here-
http://www.nickelinstitute.org/~/Me...lingCharacteristicsofStainlessSteel_9006_.pdf

 

I have had great luck for this as a last chance try.

 

GREAT NEWS GUYS!!!!
With a little heat and cool down process along with some PB blaster I got it to back out.
THANKS FOR ALL THE GOOD IDEAS AND HELP.......Nothing like the HAMB to the rescue.