Bolt-in or Weld-in

Welding anything is always a good way to go...

 

thats a big *** bolt

 

the majority of OEM bolt in crossmembers are unitized, one piece. The crossmember is fully self supported unlike the most of the aftermarket. The only reason you see modern cars with bolt in subframes is for noise isolation. The drive train mounted to the subframe and the suspension being isolated with compliant rubber bushings you divorce the noise from the p***enger compartment.

In the case of aftermarket suspensions, multi part bolt-ins are in general more compliant, more expensive and usually require more effort to install. In some applications the extra structure to make the multi part installation sound will interfere with other components. Some frames do not lend themselves to bolt in components well, boxing plates and C-notches will either lead to compromise or to welding to maintain proper suspension geometry.

I like the Space Shuttle comment though, real cutesy. It is riveted and bolted together. And it is also a design penned in the late seventies to early eighties built by the lowest bidder. Perfect ****ogy to hot rodding

 

bolt in the weld in or weld in the bolt it.!!!

 

Why doesn't anyone like the weld in kits

 

It also make the car much easier to produce. Bolt all the drivetrain to the subframe and then do a body drop. Heaps easier than ****ing about putting motors in from the top.

As for why don't people like weld ins? Lots of people who probably should never have been involved have made abortions of weld in fronts. If you know what you are doing, then its horses for courses. Some cars suit bolt in, some suit weld in.

 

I prefer weld in. 'Cause I know how to weld

 

What If I were to have a shop install the kit for me would a weld in kit be preferred

 

I belive so.

 

How long does a weld in kit take to install including the removal of the old suspension and engine and trans???

 

if you bolt it in, I would still lay some weld on it

 

Because some people weld like this...




But truthfully if you can weld reasonably well a weld in kit is great. If you have neither the resources or the skill to weld it in correctly then bolt in is fine. I just wouldn't count a bolt in kit out. They definitely have their place.


.

 

Manufacturers bolt on suspensions, but they engineer the grade of bolts and bolts are body bound to ***ure there is no movement!! Do it properly regardless of welding or bolting, it's your life.

 

I wonder if that's a Grade 8 bolt.....

 

Want scary fab work, go here: http://128.83.80.193/scarysteering/index.html

I'd trust my own work, no problem.

I also realise there are goofs like the people on the scary steering website. Even bolt-on products would give them difficulty.

Shawn

 

You've had a lot of great feedback... however I'll throw in my learnings for what it's worth (less than $0.02)....

I am not sure if the truck frame is the same configuration as the car, but if it is a tophat frame, what AtomicKustom said way back at the beginning needs to be considered. I have read a lot of stuff that says you should not weld one of these frames. The tophat design, in some people's opinion, is not designed to take load on anything but the bottom flange. You risk stress cracking on the tophat if you weld to it and change the state of stress and metallurgical properties. That is a primary reason why Ch***is Engineering does not sell weld in kits for these models. That being said, there are a TON of guys who have done a great job welding on the frame with no problems using Heidt, FatMan, etc. kits.

Just something you should be aware of.... For me, I'd stick with bolted and completely eliminate the risk of possibly getting a welder who screws the deal... I like the Ch***is Engineering kit, but what I saw was that it didn't give enough drop and it didn't have option for power steering. I was leaning toward RB's before I decided to just modify the stock suspension on my '49.

 

that's an *** bolt??/
so thats what they look like,,hahaha

 

I used tci bolt in lower and weld in upper hats. I had a friend come over and bring his gas mig to weld in the hats. Once i got the upper hats on it was cake.

 

I think that picture illustrates perfectly why I like a bolt on suspension. Look at that hat and imagine the twisting torque it puts on that frame. And though those welds look pretty good, imagine the results in the hands of someone who can't weld (but thinks he can). I haven't seen the Ch***is engineering one up close, but I did install a Jim Meyers setup (pretty $pendy though) in my 54, it leaves NO strain on the frame at all, all the weight of the car is supported by the cross member, not hanging on a hat. That picture makes me want to add a brace or gusset from the hat to the cross member.
Plus, the bolt in is much easier to install, and nearly fail safe.

 

How long does a weld in kit take to install including the removal of the old suspension and engine and trans???
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If you work on it it can be done in the course of a weekend.