Can I sell my car in NC with a bonded ***le? I just got it a couple months ago. I've heard some states require a 2 or 3 year waiting period!!!
In AZ a bonded ***le last for one year and then it becomes a regular ***le. Check with your dmv and ask your question.
I think you can buy and sell anything you like. The three year waiting period is to get the ***le in your name. The money you spent on the bond will be down the toilet and the new owner will need to start from day one, three year waiting period to get the ***le in the new owners name. Sign off all do***entation on your end to cover your interests. That is the way it works here in Washington. Seems like the same rules apply. My 2 cents. Good luck-
If all the above BS were true, there would be no point in having a bond in the first place. Think about it. What is the point of the Bond? It is THIS....to compensate a potential claimant of the vehicle in question, should one appear during the time specified by the State....typically three years. The claimant DOES NOT get the car back...he/she gets the bond, which is based on the value of the vehicle at the time it was acquired and bonded. The bond protects both the State and the person to whom the ***le was issued. The bonding company indemnifies the State against such claims and the bond remains in effect regardless of what happens to the vehicle after the ***le was issued. The ***le does not carry any conditional provisions....it's a ***le......free and clear (unless it has a lien from a lender)...and the ***le holder can keep, restore, modify, sell, mortgage or crush the vehicle with impunity. I have acquired a bonded ***le twice, once about 25 years ago and the second just in the past few weeks. Flame away! Ray
Yes, this is the logical progression of how a bond is supposed to work. With that said, state law and logic don't always cross paths, so check your state statutes for a clear understanding of what the law requires. I have a bonded ***le truck in Missouri. The ***le came to me free and clear. I do not know how North Carolina works.
I had to get a 3 year bond and an NCDMV ***igned VIN in 2012... The actual NC ***le issued at that time was clear , in my name , and not marked "bonded".... This year I received the bond do***ent back from NCDMV , stating that it was no longer necessary for them to have it on file... So it appears,that at anytime during the 3 years I could have sold the car with the ***le I had and had no problem...and NCDMV would have only been protected during the time the bond was in effect (2012 - 2015)
I'm only replying because I had to get a bonded ***le for the roadster I used to own. The bond is needed and required by the state to settle ownership issues in the future, ( in Wisc. the future is limited to 3 years ). Once the bond is issued and a ***le issued in your name the entire burden is with the bond company. Bonds are typically for 3 years after which time no claims can be made against the bond company for ownership. During that 3 year period you can do whatever you want with the car, if you sell it the bond will transfer over until the original bond expires. I don't believe there is a fee for the bond at transfer, at least not in Wisc. As was stated, call your DMV and get the right information from them, you'll feel much better in the morning, rather than trusting 14 different opinions here.
Since you're still drinking beer, perhaps you will sometime realize after reading HP's post that your first step should have been to contact your state DMV since they not only will have the answers but they'll also make the decision. Lots of us have stories, but only the NC guys have relevant information for their state. Good luck.
Aww, don't get all yer ******* in a wad 5 window. The DMV guys here are more than a little tough to work with. I just thought maybe a local would chime in with his/her experience ( which they did ) to save me the h***el with dealing with them.........BTW whats wrong with beer?????
BUMP. Been reading a bit on these. As I understand it, the bond protects the state and previous owners in the event of a claim against the vehicle. So it is of no value to the new ***le holder? Or does it facilitate getting a ***le for a vehicle with no ***le? Is it something the DMV makes one get? Under what cir***stances? I've gotten ***les without a previous and not needed a bond. Yes, I could call the DMV but like to hear from someone who has done it, California if possible.
Saw this pop up again. The car I bonded was sold about a year later. It went to PA and as far as I know the new owner had no problem registering it, never heard from him anyway. As far as I know it was only protecting me, as I was the one that had to renumber the car, so I suppose the claimant would be knocking on my door. And its good for three years, I just got a note from NCDOT that the bond was expired. Now I'm in the same boat as far as getting a bond, as the inspector could not find the original serial number on the frame of my truck, even though its in 2 places on the body !!!! He says sorry, NC is a frame state, gotta have numbers there.........
Bump again.. To get a bonded ***le, do you need a Vin verification, inspection, etc.? Or just put your Vin, plate, year and model etc. on the form? Here is the Ca DMV form. Too many where to fors for me. So you have to go through a service, you don't do it yourself? https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/wcm/c...09-3bcfa797c44a/reg5057.pdf?MOD=AJPERES&CVID=
California is all that counts. All the rest are speculation or a different state,territory or commonwealth.
I always thought bonded ***les were only used in guaranteed ***le states. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
In order to get a bonded ***le in NC, a DMV inspector has to come out and look at the car, inspect any and all data plates, body tags, frame numbers, etc.
I just went through this this morning here in NC. I have a Brookeville bodied 1931 Ford roadster on reproduction frame rails. No numbers anywhere. The process I am going through is to fill out their affidavit statement of facts (MVR-92H) on how I got the car/body and got it notarized. It then has an inspection by the DMV theft and loss inspector for my county, which I had this AM. He takes pictures of the car and copies of any do***ents you have, your license number, and files a form (LT-270) saying it was inspected. If no problems arise you get a VIN ***igned within two weeks and he comes out to your house and applies the VIN tag to your car. Once that VIN is ***igned you then apply for a bond to protect NC in case the vehicle was stolen and they missed it (MVR-92D). The bond stays on file with the state for 3 years. Also, once you have the VIN you can then apply for a ***le (MVR-1) and register the car for the road. You will need 2 separate appraisals done for tax purposes. They take the higher of the two to calculate sales tax from if they cannot find your vehicle in the standard car books such as KBB and so on... It could then take up to 45 days for a ***le to be issued. I asked the inspector how the ***le would be worded and he said it will say 1931 Ford Model A Replica, which is fine by me. He said the problems occur when somebody wants a new reproduction body or frame to be ***led as an original old car when in fact it isn't. All of the info above is outlined on form MVR-92A and you simply follow their process. I have heard countless horror stories about getting ***les in various states but to be honest here I was only with the inspector for about 40 minutes. A nice guy just doing his job. Didn't bust my balls. Asked me questions about the car, checked my paperwork, which I made sure was done correctly in advance of our meeting, and was straight forward and easy to deal with. The bottom line is the state wants your money and they will help you to give it to them if you follow their process! This might not answer the original question about if a person can sell a car that is on a bonded ***le, but hopefully it will help out the folks wondering about the process and how painful it might be.
When I got a bonded ***le to my 42 Dodge several years ago, they told me I could sell the truck but the new owner had to wait the remaining time on the bond to get the ***le. (a) Owners releasing interest in a vehicle with a bonded ***le or three-year registration without ***le must provide a release of interest described in WAC 308-56A-265; (b) The new owners must submit an application for ***le as described in this chapter and complete the time remaining on the current ownership in doubt period.
I have never heard of anyone having someone show up and lay claim to a car that they have a bonded ***le on because they found the ***le to "grandpa's old car" in a drawer full of papers when they sorted though everything when they cleaned out the house after grandpa didn't need it anymore. Even then the ***le would have to be run though the DMV and someone would have to dig though the archives to see that it is still a good ***le. I'd far rather deal with a Bonded ***le than a ***le I knew was bogus because I had used an old ***le I bought from a ***le seller or I had used one of the less than stellar create a ***le outfits. The bond says you jumped though all the flaming hoops and tried to do it right rather than cheat and if someone showed up claiming it was theirs they still have to prove that it was theirs. Probably about the only chance of that is if the car was reported as stolen years before and the vin pops up on a national database. I'm not sure if this will work but it is the page on NC ***le bonds. https://www.ncdot.gov/dmv/downloads/Do***ents/MVR-92D.pdf
^^^ I agree with Mr48chev. It shows you have done the leg work to get it taken care of properly as opposed to buying "collector paper" and claiming it belongs to the car you are trying to sell.
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