bone splitting

part four, day four of my Modified

I wasn't gunna werk on the thing today but I couldn't help myself

here's how I split my '36 Ford front wishbone.

I rolled the frontend outside

 

and using a Sawsall I removed the center pivot ball by cutting right behind the weld

 

then I used a punch and pliers to dig out the remains of the inner sleave, ground the ends square, cleaned the insides with a rotary file mounted in a drill motor and ground a chamfer around the outsides

 

next I rolled the axle over and wire brushed the nuts and thread and pulled the cotter pins from the pins, using a 15/16" socket, breaker bar and cheater I loosened the nuts a turn or two and knocked the wishbone and axle with a hammer to shock some of the rust, no heat was used and I did not wail on anything. after working the bones back and forth for a minute or two I was able to open them up.

 

I am using a pair of bungs made by a local guy, they seem nicely made and were not too expensive. If I had a lathe I would have made my own. they take the large Ford tie rod ends. anyway I drove them in using a heavy br*** drift I made out of a chunk of marine propeler shaft.

 

threaded the ends in and there you have it.

 

as with the frame work I will wait to weld everything up when all the fitting is complete.

to be continued...

Paul

 

kick*** man.. thanks for posting the tuts over the past few days

 

this whole bone splitting episode including posting took just under one hour.

Paul

 

when splitting 'bones do you have to use that type of rod end or can you use something like this:

 

or this?:

 

bradberry00

I personaly like the "old school" look of the Ford tie rod ends, but those should work fine.

Paul

 

try to use the second ones it'll give you a smoother ride, the hymes are good but you don't have that small cushion of rubber.
JimV

 

one last pic, here's the front in place with a plywood pattern of the mount, frame at aproximate ride height and rake, about three inches of suspension travel and king pins at about six degrees.

 

ok I lied, this is the last picture!

 

Paul, Have you considered cuting a notch in the lower flange of the frame and mounting the plate on the inside? That way you have only the lower tapered portion of the mount showing below the frame, and it gives an uninterupted look to side of the frame. Just a thought. I'm not saying the outside mounting is wrong, Tom McMullen mounted his on the outside of his origional '32 roadster.

Frank

 

man, wish i got to do something like that today! ive only done it once, but i was wondering what you were going to do with the spring mounts? i did the same thing you have done so far, but with the spring on, and heated the mounts, and moved the bones out. i just didnt know if it was the accepted way to do it or not.

instead of heim joints or something fancy, i use the ends of big rig shocks, cut off, and even use the bushings. just welded them on the end, they work grrreat.

trey

 

fab32,
yes I did but I like to see the home made brackets, that and it will help hide the frame splice and the frame will prolly get boxed making it tough to check for cracks if I weld 'em or get to the bolts if I go that route.

trey,
I like the big shock end idea, I like the low tech approach.

Paul

 

Are you able to use the radius rods without bending them? Everyone I have has been bent so the steering turns fully, but my tires rub anyway and I am using 165R15 tires!

 

The only thing I can add is..If you put the bracket under the frame, you MAY run into clearance issues with the top of the wishbone and the bottom of the frame rail. And, Speedway sells those weld in bungs for 20 bucks a pair if you can't find anyone to make em.

*****n little tech article....Nice and simple, but very effective.

-Abone.

 

manyolcars,

yeah, I'm gunna make some stops to limit the turning, that and the longer wheelbase may make U turns a thing of the past



flamedabone,

you mean using the ball on the rear bone?

if so yeah, there is a clearance issue..

I'm tempted to make some hairpins for the rear and maybe not even use the banjo.

don't know yet, won't know till I git there

Paul

 

When do we torch the spring perches?

 

4t64rd,
I've got a plan there too, a slight variation on what another HAMBer posted a while ago..

Paul

 

60's,

You said a local guy makes and sells those bone ends? Any pricing available to HAMBERs?

 

Grimlok,
I hear you, and you are saying what I missed in flamedabone's reply, I see now.


Dreamweaver,
I don't see how you can beat the Speedway deal of $20.00 a pair,
I bought this guy's 'cause he's local and I didn't want to wait for shipping.

Paul

 

Looks great.
I dont now if you saw my post earlier on how to make the cone in a frame mounting part.

So here it comes again.

Here is Sweden i could not find the right reamer for the Balljoint cone.

So i took piece thick steel, me***ured the thickness on a steering arm cone. Drilled two holes same diameter as the smallest part of the cone.
Then i cut of the coneshaped piece from a junk balljoint. Welded on a piece of round bar to lenghten it.



Then i got my son heat the area around the hole dark red.


When red hot i fitted my home made tool in the hole, and hit it with a BIG hammer.


Voila instant coneshaped hole.
Then i cut away all non hot rod looking steel.

Here its the finished product tacked to the frame.



This is from the other side, i will weld it properly after mocking up everything, and dissasembly so i can put the frame in a better welding position.

 

Mr 42,
yes I do remember your post, I really like the low tech blacksmith aproach.

Paul

 

Good Info...
Good Pictures...

And it's stuff I needed to know at this time in my build.

BTTT and let's move it to the Tech Archive.

It's OK 60's... You won't be mocked if you nominate your own thread.