Im starting a new project, a 34 five window coupe. I tried to install a 322 nailhead but cant fit an F-1 steering box in because of the left side starter. So I am going to run an 8BA flathead. I want to bore to 3 3/8 and stroke 4 1/4. I am running a hood. Please share with me your experence with this bore and stroke and if overheating was a problem. Thanks
Well that mst be why none of them ever got a nail head. Hmmmmn I wondered why none of them ever got a nail head.
I'd be very surprised if there weren't at least a dozen people on here running a Nailhead and F1 steering box in an early 30s frame. Have you done a search to check out the modification threads for F1 boxes. There's a lot of guys moving the flange so that they tuck into the frame rail tighter. Isn't the Nailhead a pretty narrow engine to begin with? Also, check out the Introductions thread... it's a good place to introduce yourself before asking for help/suggestions/opinions.
I'd suggest keeping the bore to 3-5/16. The power difference between 5/16 and 3/8 is virtually nil on the street. 3-3/8 is max, no room for rebuild unless you get lucky. Have the bores sonic tested. Use torque plates, I've seen the results of bore distortion from the head bolts. Good water pumps and spotlessly clean water jackets should keep you cool. Had a 3-3/8 bore flatty, ran 170-180* all day. If you're looking for a lot of power or nailhead-like torque you may be barking up the wrong tree. There may be adapters out there to relocate the starter to the right side.
Speedy thanks, Ill check it out. To answer your question the nailhead is efficent reguarding space. its just that left hand starter is at the worst spot. Thanks again
My brother is running into a similar issue right now with putting a 364 into a 32 frame. He's considering moving the box into the frame rail like B*** did with his '29 roadster. It's a pretty trick way to grab what looks like 3/8" of clearance. If not you can alway go cowl steering and clear it. There has to be tricks out there though because plenty of guys run them.
just move the box to clear it. strech the column out like ben did on his 32, or break it up with some joints. problem solved. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=403642
Just flicking through an old copy of Rod and Custom from Nov 1973. That's the one with Jim Jacob's and Pete Chapouris' coupes on the front cover. The Jacobs car was fitted with a 364 nailhead. However the steering was modified to fit a cross steer arrangement using a 71 vega box. That car always looked the goods! http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_0801_top_100_hot_rods/photo_26.html
If you have a good sonic tested block, 3 3/8 is no problem. Leaves you room for at least 2 more bore jobs. 304 ci is a good combo. I had one in my daily driver for 10 years back in the olden dayz. If you get the block acid stripped, have a good radiator and run Skip's water pumps, it will not overheat even in 100 degree weather.
Pete is absolutely right. Have the block cleaned. That, in itself, is the best thing you can do. My engine is 290 CI. With Pete's Potvin 425 and 2 carbs it will run all day in 95 deg weather at 70 mph and be at 180 or less. Yes, I have an overdrive. Makes the 4.11 axle a 3.20. 70 mph is about 2450 rpm. Maybe not as fast as a nailhead, but it's not bad, and would surprise many.
A 4 1/4 stroke is rather expensive for a street motor. A 4 inch stroke with a 3 3/8 bore makes a 286 motor, they are still out there, they run good and they run cool. Back in the day, the Olds and Buick engines had a special lower flywheel cover that moved the starter to the right side. The aftermarket stick shift bell housings let you buy the bottom half either way.
Just a follow up, the suggestions of setting the collar back on the F1 box worked great. I am going to install a 64 401 nailhead. I'm using the stock pedals and rigging up a hydrolic master cylinder. I have to heat the pedals and move them to the left but looks like it will work. Thanks for the help
The Jalopy Journal
