Nice progress! So,you are going to use the original master cylinder? It could be easy to upgrade it to the dual reservoir master cylinder at this point.
It would,but I have already bought the new master cylinder.The old one was beyond any reasonable repair and at the time I just went down the line and ordered all the brake parts I needed,didnt think about that.
You'll be just fine with the Stock one. Before dual res masters, cars had what was called an "Emergency Brake". They were within easy reach with your Left hand. That was so you could keep steering with the Right hand while you easily stopped the car manually. Now with dual masters we have Park Brakes. Ever try to stop a car with one of those? What a Joke. How did we ever survive the 50's and 60's ? Just be sure your Emergency brake works as designed and keep it adjusted properly. The Wizzard
There's TWO things I love about this thread: The project itself (and it being done outside and pretty darn quickly, too) and the informational posts. I've learned a bunch in less than 100 posts. Really neat to see.
Glad it is helping you.I have learned a bunch of things in the process too! Got all the brake lines and hoses on today.I need to buy some Adel clamps to secure the lines in a couple of places.
Brent, this is a very good post as it pretty well sums up what the HAMB is. As old as I am I have also learned a lot following others projects and thanks "steinage" for sharing yours.
In the sixties my garage was 12'x18' and had a flat roof. The 2"x6" rafters were all broken where others had tried to pull motors before (spell that f-a-t-h-e-r). So all motors were pulled at the door header with most of the car outside. The floor and the driveway were too bad for creepers and most of the time it was raining or snowing (seemed that way). That was SOP "back in the day". Built my avitar in that garage. The lean-to on the left was added in the 80's. Norm
Norson Kinda goes with the territory huh! I would have welcomed that little garage; when I was in high school about 1970 I was trying to put a T-10 4 speed in my 57 BelAir, was laying on the frozen ground too long and strained my back, had to have a friend come over and put it in, and get this; it was on Thanksgiving day. Have a good one.
Great car and you are doing a great job! Wizzard, Tell us about moving the spring mounts up 3" . I want to do that on my Crestliner. Are you talking front mounts?
manyolcars; Yes, I just re mount the spring hangers on the inside of the frame rails. That of course means moving the spring pads on the housing. These photos are of my 57 but it's pretty much the same job on the 51. To do top welds on the new mounts when the Body is on the frame I just cut a 3 sided opening in the floor and fold it back to access the top side. Notice I built a new front mount out of Sq. tube instead of carving up the old stock one. Lowering blocks add leverage to a spring and cause spring wrap. Most of my stuff gets a little extra H.P. so lowering blocks are out of the question for me. Plus I don't like U-Bolts and shocks hanging below the Scrub line. This also allowed me to run a full 11.5" of tread on the ground under my 57 without doing tubs or pinching the frame. The Wizzard
Spent a few hours this morning at the turkey rod run. I think the swap meet this year was the biggest I have ever seen it.Worked on the Ford dashboard some.Not wonderful,but not bad.I need to sand it again and put another coat of paint in it. I am going to try and see how a chev 6 fits the chassis in the morning.
A little info for the future. If you end up with the GM motor and want to run the stock Ford gauges don't hook them to the GM senders. What you want to do is put the 6-V Ford senders in the new motor. Now get 3 Runts resisters from Speedway. One for each gauge. Now you can run 12-V and have correct working stock gauges. The Wizzard
Since Ford used 6 volt gauges up into the 80's all you really need is the Ford senders and this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1969-F...ectronic-5v-/271521442636?hash=item3f37f06b4c
Thank you both.I put an engine\trans in the frame today and spent several hours making motor mounts.When I bought the car the PO told me it had had a SBC in it.Maybe it did,but chevy mounts of several types do not fit the frame mounts.I got the 1\4" plate out and made a set of solid mounts for it.Sure felt good to use a stick welder again! I found after I got the mounts made up that the sump on the pan actually clears the tie rod! Not by a lot,but it does clear.I will install the real engine\trans tomorrow.Same type engine,just looks different.It was a 12 hour day today and I finally just wore out.
Got the engine and trans in today.I mocked up the carbs and exh for the picture.I will have the gasket set tomorrow and will button all this up and get the engine ready to fire.I am enjoying this interlude,but shortly it will be back to body work.
I am going to put these on tomorrow.They were for a "Mercruiser 165"(6 cyl Chevy in a boat) and were originally so marked.I put them in the mill and removed "mer".I will clean the paint off the fin tops and lettering before installing,same with the intake manifold.
I like your basic direction. I kind of question the single sheer single tab solid mounted motor. I hope that all works out as planned. Have you done this treatment before? The Wizzard
I agree looking good but I would be worried about the single sheer mounts for sure. Not a big deal right now to go back and make them double.
Thank you for your concern.I have.I had a 292 chev in a glass T roadster for several years with that exact setup.Never had any trouble with it.Truth is the first time I ran out of 1\4" plate late on Saturday night and figured I had the engine in and would order some monday,but it never moved and I never changed it.I have run solid engine mounts in a number of different inline cars and 1 V-8,all seemed to work fine,no vibration or breakage problems.Is there a solid mount problem you know about?
I have solid mounted many race cars over the years. I've just never done it with 1 bolt on a side and always with a motor plate. See photo. Viberation at the track isn't any concern but on a nice long drive I might think differently. Also with a motor plate and 2 bolts on each side leverage doesn't twist in one central point. Looking at the length of your tab to bolt and from closest block to plate bolt I would be concerned about that tab braking off right through the block bolt hole. The Wizzard
Thank you for the information. I reckon I will go hunt up another piece of 1\4X2 tomorrow.Well I found some 1\4 X 1 1\2".That should do for the extra brace.I got the water pump,fuel pump,new tappet covers etc on today,also got the distributor in and timed.Likely test fire engine tomorrow.
Got the engine running today.It hasn't run since about 1998,but it has been pickled and bagged.Seems fine.It took some time to get the intake and headers to actually fit right.Seems the aftermarket headers hit the aftermarket intake manifold.I have had this happen before but they don't usually hit this hard.Finally got enough off the headers and intake for everything to line up.
Not to belabor the point and I know you said you'll fix it, but this is more of a fyi for readers. Motor mounts like that, in a vertical plane that are single shear are problematic in the case of an accident as well. The mount has little strength horizontally, but the motor has a lot of inertial when your cruising down the road. If you come to a sudden stop, the motor will bend the single tab, moving forward and possibly pinning the throttle. I've seen this happen many times when I was racing ( before kids ).
re: the weld pics above: It's good to see someone working on an AMX. I bought a new '68 when I returned from overseas -- the only new car I've ever bought, and probably the last. It was a POS, but it sure was fun!!! I wish I had it now.
Late to the Party; Guilty as charged. I'm very cautious about what is posted about the above mentioned project. I've had posts closed for using it as an example and showing to much of it. It's to new for the cutoff date as you know. Close examination of above photo and you'll notice All of the factory problems have been discarded. All that remains of the post 65 car is the roof skin, door jambs and some of the Quarter panels. It's truly a Happy ending to a P.O.S. The Wizzard
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